[Gix1kR]

Ok this isn't a discussed case before so I'll try to be concise and clean.

This bike originally from UT. Bought it from a yard with lien sales 3mo ago. Never registered in CA but it's been here for a while. I'm guessing 20k miles or less.

Bought it 3mo ago and it's been running with me for last 30 to 45 days and completed the 1st 1000 miles with her avg 100 120 flying love the bike.

About 30 days ago I posted question about running rich thru pix someone pointed why the stator wire is cut, is it charging OK? I ran the test and charging 14.2 or 14.4 at 5k rpm, I don't remember exact 0. But it was within spec.

3 days ago battery died. Figured battery is shot. It's a Yuasa and looks new. So got a new battery anyway.

2 days riding yesterday new battery dead again quick like the old one. Diode tested the voltage regulator all checks OK. Tested the voltage idle is 11.1 5000rpm is 12.2.

Took out the stator looks new (looks caltric) but the one wire cut its been rerouted due to broken top connector. I took close pic from the connections.

Question is it possible new stator with no signs of burns is bad? Or it's the 3rd wire micky moused?

Thank you.

 

[alexei]

Are the 3 wires from the stator, connected to the rectifier inputs?

There are ways to verify that stator is working: measuring the resistance (miliohms) in between all three wires from the stator, checking that all three wires have zero contact to the case, and then fire up the bike, and check the voltages supplied from pairings of the three wires from the stator (A-B, B-C, C-A).

 

[Gix1kR]

Yes all connected, one welded as you see in the pix. You mean test like diode test? Stator is off the bike until I fix the problem. I wonder if the wire is weak in transmitting.

 

[Gix1kR]

Tested stator off the bike, has 0 resistance in the wires. It's broken. Discard all above please new question. Which aftermarket stator is actually quality copper? As far as I remember it's the oxygen levels in the wire, the less the better. I think USA Japan copper it's like 99.8% oxygen free.

Oem cost arm and leg apart from connectors it's should be fine I'd assume.

 

[Serpent]

Use OEM parts. And hardwire them into place. Get rid of those connectors.

 

[alexei]

The resistance of the stator wire pairs are in <0.2 ohms range. Afterall the measurement is between two ends of the copper windings. The lower, the better.

Testing any electrical contact to the stator cover shows any of the windings are shorted to GND.

 

[Gix1kR]

The resistance of the stator wire pairs are in <0.2 ohms range. Afterall the measurement is between two ends of the copper windings. The lower, the better.

Testing any electrical contact to the stator cover shows any of the windings are shorted to GND.

If I have my Multi meter on right setting. In order tested it shows .10 .8 .4 then 0 on all.

 

[rv6john]

As alexei mentioned, it is a very small resistance. With your meter set at 2k ohms, you will not see it. It should be on the lowest setting you have which looks like 200 ohms in this case.

I'm guessing a meter error was why you had 14+ volts with one of the stator wires cut in your earlier post. I commented then that it did not make sense.

 

[alexei]

If I have my Multi meter on right setting. In order tested it shows .10 .8 .4 then 0 on all.

Just so we are on the same page, the stator has 3 wires, just list them as A, B, C.
So, measuring A-B, B-C and C-A, each should show 0.1~0.2 ohms. If you're reading .10 .8 .4 for each pairs, the stator is fine in this respect.

When you say '0 on all', I do not understand. Can you please elaborate?

Next is to probe either one of the A, B or C, with one meter probe, and then the other probe to the exposed portion of the cover. This is to check if the stator windings has shorted to ground (the metal cover).

 

[Gix1kR]

As alexei mentioned, it is a very small resistance. With your meter set at 2k ohms, you will not see it. It should be on the lowest setting you have which looks like 200 ohms in this case.

I'm guessing a meter error was why you had 14+ volts with one of the stator wires cut in your earlier post. I commented then that it did not make sense.

The 14v was accurate because the 3rd wire is welded as you see in the pix, so all 3 technically are connected. Then setting was on set on 20V. So for ohms I'll set it on 200 and see.

 

[Gix1kR]

Just so we are on the same page, the stator has 3 wires, just list them as A, B, C.
So, measuring A-B, B-C and C-A, each should show 0.1~0.2 ohms. If you're reading .10 .8 .4 for each pairs, the stator is fine in this respect.

When you say '0 on all', I do not understand. Can you please elaborate?

Next is to probe either one of the A, B or C, with one meter probe, and then the other probe to the exposed portion of the cover. This is to check if the stator windings has shorted to ground (the metal cover).

When measuring it starts at 10 then goes down to 8 4 0 fast and stays at 0.

 

[Gix1kR]

Could it be regulator? Regulator would over charge not undercharge right? I have the wiring to make this zx10 RR work

 

[Gix1kR]

Just so we are on the same page, the stator has 3 wires, just list them as A, B, C.
So, measuring A-B, B-C and C-A, each should show 0.1~0.2 ohms. If you're reading .10 .8 .4 for each pairs, the stator is fine in this respect.

When you say '0 on all', I do not understand. Can you please elaborate?

Next is to probe either one of the A, B or C, with one meter probe, and then the other probe to the exposed portion of the cover. This is to check if the stator windings has shorted to ground (the metal cover).

Set the meter on 200 tested all they start at 3 2 1 drop to 0 and stay on 0 quick. I have a 07 zx10r stator here does the same. Maybe my test isn't good. Is it possible that the 3rd cut wiring that's bad caused the lower voltage?

 

[peter079]

When you are measuring in the 200 ohms range, touch the meter probes together.
What reading do you get?
Maybe the multimeter battery is going flat.
Have you tried a different multimeter?
I would do the tests mentioned by alexei, including the short to ground test.

The stator looks fairly new. It's been replaced. It might still be good.
All the tests on the stator could have been done while it was still installed. Including the
AC Voltage test between the phases while the engine is running.

I would be more suspicious of the regulator side of the R/R having failed.
What regulator is on the bike now? The $30 ebay ones are known to fail.
They can fail with over charge or under charge. Mine failed with under charge.

If that ZX10 Regulator is OEM, then it should be good ("touch wood"). It should have FH010
or FH020 on it. There were some counterfeit ones being sold on ebay.
But you will still have to rewire the connections and that's why it's recommended to stay
with Suzuki OEM.
(Because bad connections build up heat and burn things).

Anyway, I would make sure the stator is good first.

 

[alexei]

When measuring it starts at 10 then goes down to 8 4 0 fast and stays at 0.

It sounds like the multimeter does not have sufficient accuracy, or decimal points (0.xx ohms) to determine it's resistance. But, I'll take a '0' as good, assuming that it is reading less than 0.5 ohms and round the value down to zero.

Here we are:
1 <done> measuring the resistance (miliohms) in between all three wires from the stator
2 <next> Check short to ground: checking that all three wires have zero contact to the case
3 <next> Check AC voltage: fire up the bike, and check the voltages supplied from pairings of the three wires from the stator (A-B, B-C, C-A).
4 <optional> install a digital voltage meter (voltmeter) on the bike, so you can glance at the charging value once a while

The voltmeter saved me once or twice, the first time, was when 1 phase of the stator has failed, and voltage reading dropped to 11.1-ish, but I figured the bike still works if I keep the rev up. It was nervous nonetheless, but at least I know what's going on. The worst thing that can happen, is to have the engine stalling on the road. Second case was when one of the three contacts from stator to rectifier had poor contact - I just quickly stopped by the roadside, wiggled the connector and that sorted it.

I'm not sure of the condition of the ZX10RR rectifier/regulator that you have, but worth a shot.
Just be careful, to watch the voltage at the battery terminal when the bike is started, anything above 16V you gotta kill the engine quick.

 

[Gix1kR]

It sounds like the multimeter does not have sufficient accuracy, or decimal points (0.xx ohms) to determine it's resistance. But, I'll take a '0' as good, assuming that it is reading less than 0.5 ohms and round the value down to zero.

Here we are:
1 <done> measuring the resistance (miliohms) in between all three wires from the stator
2 <next> Check short to ground: checking that all three wires have zero contact to the case
3 <next> Check AC voltage: fire up the bike, and check the voltages supplied from pairings of the three wires from the stator (A-B, B-C, C-A).
4 <optional> install a digital voltage meter (voltmeter) on the bike, so you can glance at the charging value once a while

The voltmeter saved me once or twice, the first time, was when 1 phase of the stator has failed, and voltage reading dropped to 11.1-ish, but I figured the bike still works if I keep the rev up. It was nervous nonetheless, but at least I know what's going on. The worst thing that can happen, is to have the engine stalling on the road. Second case was when one of the three contacts from stator to rectifier had poor contact - I just quickly stopped by the roadside, wiggled the connector and that sorted it.

I'm not sure of the condition of the ZX10RR rectifier/regulator that you have, but worth a shot.
Just be careful, to watch the voltage at the battery terminal when the bike is started, anything above 16V you gotta kill the engine quick.

Ok I got it. The right setting. It measures 00.4 on A to B. 00.5 B to C. 00.4 C to A. When I put the contacts together it's a consistent 00.1.

What's the diode test should look like on a rectifier.

Yes Def gonna get a voltmeter. On every bike from now on

 

[Gix1kR]

I was on the "200" below 2k it's erased thanks to dad. This 200 is good. All meadure .4 .5 .4. Meter contacts touched stay at .1

The micky mouse wire weld to the bike harness that goes to rectifier I suspect that wire. Is there a way to test the 2 wires from wiring to compare?

 

[alexei]

There should be a rectifier test like this one:

Source: 2006 GSX-R 600 Regulator/Rectifier & Charging Issues

 

[Gix1kR]

There should be a rectifier test like this one:
View attachment 300081

Source: 2006 GSX-R 600 Regulator/Rectifier & Charging Issues

Perfect thanks. I must say the wires look weak from stator to rectifier.

 

[Gix1kR]

I found the issue. The stator puts out 18v at 1500 rpm vs needed minimum of 25V and At 3000rpm it puts out 35V vs the 45V. Gonna change that with a quality part. Looks like ricks. I don't understand it's the cheap copper or what....looks new and all other tests checks out just this one. Now the 12 at idle and 13 at 5k rpm make sense.

Thanks for all the help will update with the fix. Im use to dead stators fried. Not new looking putting out 50%. Wierd thing in my experience. El cheapo I guess...