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Discussion Starter #1
I’m selling the whole bike. Broke down when I was riding home from work. I don’t know what’s wrong with it but the motor only clicks when I press the start button. It has 39k Miles I have a receipt from dealership when they checked it all out last year . Compression numbers and stuff like that. It has a bunch of new parts on it. Like a rear tire. New chain and sprockets. New brake pads. It had a recall that was taken care of. I think I have a new seat for it. I’m in central coast California. Come check it out.
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For real????

You do know that the k6/k7 is renowned for a dodgy charging system that is easily repaired, don’t you? That will cause the symptoms you have described.

Scratch that. If you can ship to Australia, I’ll offer $100
 

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Discussion Starter #3
For real????

You do know that the k6/k7 is renowned for a dodgy charging system that is easily repaired, don’t you? That will cause the symptoms you have described.

Scratch that. If you can ship to Australia, I’ll offer $100
I don’t think it is the charging system cause it has a new battery. . If you pay for shipping I’m willing to ship. But that price is way too low.
 

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I don’t think it is the charging system cause it has a new battery. . If you pay for shipping I’m willing to ship. But that price is way too low.
Dude....not the battery but the voltage rectifier/stator. You can put a BRAND NEW battery in there and it will die pretty quick if your rectifier is gone. They sit really close to the exhaust headers and thus fry. I'm guessing the California heat doesn't do any favors either. I actually moved mine to the tail in my race bike to avoid this. OEM rectifier is like 200 bucks and much cheaper if you go aftermarket(Ricks makes a decent one). If you've also blown the stator its about 300 to fix with OEM parts. Both are pretty easily accessible too so its a quick/cheap job.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dude....not the battery but the voltage rectifier/stator. You can put a BRAND NEW battery in there and it will die pretty quick if your rectifier is gone. They sit really close to the exhaust headers and thus fry. I'm guessing the California heat doesn't do any favors either. I actually moved mine to the tail in my race bike to avoid this. OEM rectifier is like 200 bucks and much cheaper if you go aftermarket(Ricks makes a decent one). If you've also blown the stator its about 300 to fix with OEM parts. Both are pretty easily accessible too so its a quick/cheap job.
No I mean I put a brand new battery and still only clicks.
 

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Do you want to sell the bike or are you just frustrated with it? Your call but you are gonna lose a ton of cash here.

Look at it this way, you spend a couple hundred bucks and a day in the garage or you discount your bike by$1500 cause it doesn’t run. In my books you fix it then sell it and pocket the $1300.
No, scratch that. In my books you fix it and ride it like a boss.

Post the issue in the tech section and give the grease monkeys a few days, I will be amazed if they can’t fix it.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Some pics of the bike so you can see that it hasn’t been beat or anything like that
 

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That’s a long drive for me to just go. I need assurance. What would be another option? I’m open to any good ideas.
Good ideas?
Fix the bike. Unless it has some rod knocking you're not telling us about, probably an easy fix.
 

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Post an ad on CarGurus's. Buy the bike there using their escrow service. It's a $99 fee for the seller (or it was a few years ago). I sold my MR2 that way. Zero complaints.
 
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