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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
Very recently my nephew purchased a 2006 GSX-R 750 With only 7,000 original miles on it. I test rode the bike, all ran great and looked very clean.
Within a week of having it, his FI light came on AND a small red light in the lower left corner of the screen. I emptied the gas, put some injector cleaner in, cycled it through the injectors a couple times and let it set for a day. Filled the tank with non-ethanol fuel and the right amount of FI cleaner again.
I also did the dealer jump that came up with C00 (no faults), took (-) cable off the battery for a while. Started it back up, FI light is still there, and that lite red light APPEARS to be an oil light? Upon looking at the oil window, it looks like the bike might be overfilled with oil. All bikes I've had, the oil level is half way on the window. This one is totally covered when standing it upright.
My question(s): How to reset that FI light? Would too much oil set that FI light in motion? Is that actually an oil indicator light I'm seeing (I'm not familiar with Gixxers)? And finally, would too much oil cause that FI light to illuminate?
I'm new to these bikes, so please help me out with some positive input and/or threads to fixing/troubleshooting.
Thanks!
 

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Welcome. I moved this to the tech section for you.

When you say "FI light" do you mean it says "FI" blinking in the temperature window?

In the GSXR world, the small red light is referred to as the FI light. It turns on with a system fault, low oil pressure or high coolant temperature.

With a system fault you will get the blinking "FI", with low oil pressure, an oil can icon, and with high temperature, a thermometer icon.

What specifically are you getting? And when? (it is normal to have the red light and oil icon on when the ignition is on but the bike not running as there is no oil pressure)

As far as the oil level is concerned, watch the oil level as you tilt the bike away from you to see if you begin to see the top of the level. It may be just a bit high. There is no FI light or icon for low or high oil level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So yes, the "FI" is blinking in the temperature window, and the red light is on continously while running/riding. I did some research about the "dealership" jump and when done I came up with "C00" which seemed a good sign.
Also, I looked at the little dash (-) next to the code to see if the throttle position was off too because it seems to idle a little low (around 900-1000rpm). And when the bike has been run, if you blip on the throttle and cut it quickly, the bike will stall (when at a standstill position).
I'm just wondering if there is a way to clear the FI code (flashing icon) and see if it reappears.
One thing I have not done is check the air box. I have a gut feeling the bike has not been ridden in a while. It only has just over 7k on the clock, and after really looking through it closer I'm now seeing where the tire manufacture year was 2012. Maybe there's some nesting in the air box that's causing the bad idle, kind of choking it out? Just a thought.
By the way, the bike is stock. No add-ons.
Again, any positive input is more than welcome.
 

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If you have "FI" flashing then you do have a fault of some kind. You need to put the bike in dealer mode and ride it till the fault pops up. The fault is only sent one time to the cluster so each time you shut off the bike it is reset and goes away. It is still remembered in the ECM but will not show on the cluster again unless it reoccurs. You need a dealer scanner tool to see it in the ECM.

Being stock, my guess is a C46 code, which is pretty common, but you need to find out what this bike is showing.

The idle speed should be 1150 rpm +/- 100 so it is just a bit low. That is probably why it is stalling in your test which is not likely in real world riding. There is a roundish knob on the left side of the throttle body that sets the idle speed. Just turn it up a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you have "FI" flashing then you do have a fault of some kind. You need to put the bike in dealer mode and ride it till the fault pops up. The fault is only sent one time to the cluster so each time you shut off the bike it is reset and goes away. It is still remembered in the ECM but will not show on the cluster again unless it reoccurs. You need a dealer scanner tool to see it in the ECM.

Being stock, my guess is a C46 code, which is pretty common, but you need to find out what this bike is showing.

The idle speed should be 1150 rpm +/- 100 so it is just a bit low. That is probably why it is stalling in your test which is not likely in real world riding. There is a roundish knob on the left side of the throttle body that sets the idle speed. Just turn it up a bit.
Okay. I appreciate that knowledge. I live in Central New York. Not sure how many days of riding are left on our weather schedule here...lol. But if the opportunity arises soon, I will take it and work this out. I did see a list of errors in a link someplace. I'll screenshot it and save for reference.
Idle speed: get at idle set from the right side? Need to take fairing off? Any tricks or tips?
 

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The idle speed knob is on the left side. If you move the throttle when you look in between the fairings you'll see the cables moving on the "pulley" The knob is behind and below that. You should be able to reach it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay. So I got a chance to try some things pointed out (thank you for the advice). It's possible a combination of the injector cleaner sitting for a few weeks, and the directions you gave have helped thus far.
When I first started the bike yesterday, the light and "FI" were gone. Within the 200 yard ride back to my house they were back.
I turned the bike off, installed the jumper wire and secured it. Started it and upped the idle to about 1300rpm, then took the bike for a 45 mile ride through straights, twisties, stop and go traffic, and several 100mph+ bursts. And I made sure I blipped the throttle several times at standstills - no more stalling out.
The bike never posted anything different on the dashboard aside from "C00" the entire ride. When I returned, removed the jumper wire, and started the bike, the light and "FI" were gone. I rode it another 14 miles and it did not come back on.
Also, the gear indicator was now posting a solid 1st gear while in 1st and not deciding between 1st and 2nd.
One thing that I was in question about: the small "-" that goes up and down for TPS. It would jump from middle to the high position at 2300-2500rpm. That seemed awful low. Or is that correct?
Thanks
 

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One thing that I was in question about: the small "-" that goes up and down for TPS. It would jump from middle to the high position at 2300-2500rpm. That seemed awful low. Or is that correct?
Thanks
The "-" mark moves up and down with the throttle shaft position, that is normal. I'm guessing it tops out about 2000 rpm from what I remember.

If you want to experiment, put the bike in dealer mode, don't start it, then move the throttle up and down. You will see the dash move with the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, I was watching it move. I guess my question is, at what rpm should it be moving from middle to top?
I'd thought I had seen a thread here that mentioned 3k before it switched? Which could be not right either.
It just seems to be a little jerky at lower speeds. And I was wondering if that had anything to do with it.
 

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It is not important what rpm it moves up. The purpose of the dash is to synchronize what the TPS is telling the ECM with the throttle shaft

So you set the correct idle RPM warmed up, then adjust the TPS till the dash is in the center. Now the ECM knows where the throttle plates are at idle and can then work from there.
 

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I consider the red LED to be a general fault indicator with icons or FI indicating the type of fault. A blinking LED is associated with a more severe fault and the bike won't start.

In my experience, the tach reads high by 4-5%. So a target idle RPM is about 1200 indicated. It's been a couple years since I've set my TPS and distant recollection but I don't remember the RPM going up or down by more than a couple hundred RPM as I played with it. But John's right about RPM not being what this is about. My idle adjustment screw was a pain to turn because of its shape and location, so I made a new one with a hex head. The display bars are just an indicator of the TPS voltage so it's possible to set it by measuring its voltage. I think 1.125 to 1.130 was the middle point and it changes from middle to high at around 1.135 V (no guarantee and this may be model specific).
 
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