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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello i cant find any other threads or forums touching base on my issue, well only one and it was for a 1k and was never resolved. Any way here goes with SOME INFO THAT MIGHT MEAN SOMETHING......... I got this 2006 gsxr 750 a few months ago and have worked on it more than i rode it sad i know, when i first got it the ecu was fried and a few other electrical components were shot too. i put a new OEM ecu in and it seemed to run like shit so i tried the dealer mode and it threw a bunch of codes. fast forward to now---has new OEM ecu, new OEM fuel pump, new OEM injectors, new OEM coil packs, fresh NGK CR9E spark plugs, fresh oil change with k&n oil filter, fresh k&n air fliter and a cheap slip on.

Bike has 10k miles with clean title dont think it was ever laid down the bar ends, pegs, etc arent banged up either.

NOW THE ISSUE....... bike will run and ride like a bat out of hell when it wants to but ive noticed coming to a stoplight and i pull in the clutch the bike tries to die out also if i start the bike to let it warm up before a ride it idles and 2000rpm. anything less then that it wont idle just shuts off. even at 2k rpm sometimes it will drop down to about 1500rpm and shut off. this made me think it was a back pressure issue because previous owner took the EVA (exhaust valve actuator) off and wired the exhaust valve open. so i bought a OEM EVA off ebay installed it and was 99.9% sure i had it all right i cycled the key set everything accordingly but there it 2 electrical connectors for it. one has 2 wires and the other has 3. if i unplug the 3 wire connector and cycle the key the servo spins clockwise from right hand side of the bike. but when i plug that 3 wire connector back in it throws -C46 code (EVA malfunction). could i have bought a bad servo and thats why its throwing the code?am i right about it being a back pressure issue? once i unplug that 3 wire connection again the code goes back to -C00 (no fault code) im so confused with this bike. maybe need a new battery? it holds a charge pretty well. also i did notice the battery ground wire looks melted but no wires are showing just looks like it was glazed with a blow torch or something so idk if that could be an issue too? i think i listed everything going on if theres something i missed please ask questions. tps is set right dash is in the middle and rises high when i crack the throttle. any insight would be greatly appretiated:)
 

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I don't have this bike, so I am not familiar with the EVA.

But, the new ECU that you installed is for a 750 and not the 600?
You might want to check the numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't have this bike, so I am not familiar with the EVA.

But, the new ECU that you installed is for a 750 and not the 600?
You might want to check the numbers.
Yes i checked the part numbers for the ecu, fuel pump, injectors, coil packs and the EVA servo. all are correct for the 2006 gsxr 750
 

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Welcome.

I'm bit confused reading through the long post. The bike does not idle at all or only sometimes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome.

I'm bit confused reading through the long post. The bike does not idle at all or only sometimes?
bike will idle sometimes but it wants to shut its self off if i keep the idle at 2k rpm it will idle fine for about 3-5 minutes and then is will sow down untill the bike stalls out. also if i rev the bike up to 8k rpm and let it go back down to idle it stalls out. for example im riding up to a stop lightor stop sign, i pull the clutch in, if i dont use the throttle to keep the bike running it will stall. i hope that all makes sense:)
 

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Did this start suddenly? I'm assuming someone has not been "fixing" the bike.

First check is to see if the bike is running on all cylinders. Spray some water on the headers after keeping it running for minute or so and see if any headers are cooler.

Next check for vacuum leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did this start suddenly? I'm assuming someone has not been "fixing" the bike.

First check is to see if the bike is running on all cylinders. Spray some water on the headers after keeping it running for minute or so and see if any headers are cooler.

Next check for vacuum leaks.
yes bike is running on all cylinders when i unplug the coil packs one at a time i can hear a difference then i plug it back in and it sounds alot better. im new to gsxrs and efi stuff in general what do you mean by "i assume someone has not been fixing the bike"
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yes bike is running on all cylinders when i unplug the coil packs one at a time i can hear a difference then i plug it back in and it sounds alot better. im new to gsxrs and efi stuff in general what do you mean by "i assume someone has not been fixing the bike".
i have no clue where to start for vaccum leaks but ill check the hoses and connections out. like i said the bike is throwing -C00 code which is no fault. couldit be air/fuelratio maybe? i mentioned the EVA isnt working right and i did add a k&n air filter.
 

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You blew right past checking that all cylinders are running. Do that first.
 

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+1 on the vacuum leak. The IAP hose system and sensor can develop a leak and throw no codes. You need a exhaust gas analyzer to prove it out, but the hose system is cheap and easy to replace. I chased a leak on my for almost a year. One of the symptoms was that sometime rolling to a stop it would rev up to 2600 or so by itself. Then it would idle way down and sound like a tractor. What happens is the computer thinks it's getting more air than it really is and the system goes super rich.

Additionally, I don't know if it would throw codes or not, but is it possible the primary and secondary injectors are reversed? Could a power commander be hooked to the secondaries instead of the primary injectors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
+1 on the vacuum leak. The IAP hose system and sensor can develop a leak and throw no codes. You need a exhaust gas analyzer to prove it out, but the hose system is cheap and easy to replace. I chased a leak on my for almost a year. One of the symptoms was that sometime rolling to a stop it would rev up to 2600 or so by itself. Then it would idle way down and sound like a tractor. What happens is the computer thinks it's getting more air than it really is and the system goes super rich.

Additionally, I don't know if it would throw codes or not, but is it possible the primary and secondary injectors are reversed? Could a power commander be hooked to the secondaries instead of the primary injectors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
+1 on the vacuum leak. The IAP hose system and sensor can develop a leak and throw no codes. You need a exhaust gas analyzer to prove it out, but the hose system is cheap and easy to replace. I chased a leak on my for almost a year. One of the symptoms was that sometime rolling to a stop it would rev up to 2600 or so by itself. Then it would idle way down and sound like a tractor. What happens is the computer thinks it's getting more air than it really is and the system goes super rich.

Additionally, I don't know if it would throw codes or not, but is it possible the primary and secondary injectors are reversed? Could a power commander be hooked to the secondaries instead of the primary injectors?
no power commander and the injectors are not backward
 

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The IAP hose system and sensor can develop a leak and throw no codes.
Yeah, I also recommend going through the IAP hoses and check they are not clogged.

They have a tendency to get clogged with carbon (or similar) near the nipples and T-joints.
Get some (very) thin wire and check the nipples on the throttle body are not clogged. And
then check the T-joints and hoses as well.

So basically, check the system for clogged and/or cracked hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, I also recommend going through the IAP hoses and check they are not clogged.

They have a tendency to get clogged with carbon (or similar) near the nipples and T-joints.
Get some (very) thin wire and check the nipples on the throttle body are not clogged. And
then check the T-joints and hoses as well.

So basically, check the system for clogged and/or cracked hoses.
are the iap hoses the ones that connect to the airbox? the one on the right side sucks air in and the one on the bottom left blows out? anyways ill double check them thanks
 

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curious how i "blew right past it"i stated that if i unplug coil packs 1 at a time there is a significant difference in the way the bike sounds
Sorry, I did not see your response above the one I read. Yes, it sounds like all cylinders are firing if you got a response from pulling each coil connector.

By "someone fixing" I'm asking about some background. What has been done before to fix the issue or other maintenance done before the issue came up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry, I did not see your response above the one I read. Yes, it sounds like all cylinders are firing if you got a response from pulling each coil connector.

By "someone fixing" I'm asking about some background. What has been done before to fix the issue or other maintenance done before the issue came up.
ahhh no clue i traded a untitled 97 yz250 for it and took a shot in the dark on it. ive replaced a bunch of stuff and just ant get it to idle correctly on its own. you you have tick tock there is a video on my tiktok where i rev the bike up and then it stalls itself out. @jrrides750
 

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I had a quick look at the video.

I'm not a mechanic, but it sounds like it's maybe running on 3 cylinders. It sounds like a Triple.
That's also most likely the reason why you need to keep the revs at 2000rpm at idle. The bike should normally, happily idle at 1300rpm. Eg. Suzuki GSXR 750 K7 Start Up and Sound

You've changed a bunch of stuff, so It's a bit hard to know which way to go from here.

So, when you bought the bike, it was non-running? You replaced the ECU and it started up.
A fried ECU on this model is usually because the Rectifier (and sometimes Stator) goes bad
and causes over-voltage which blows the ECU.
Has the Rectifier and/or Stator been recently replaced? Have you checked that the Battery is being charged?
(NB. When the bike is running, the voltage across the battery terminals should be about 14.5 volts.)

Anyway, because it sounds like the engine is running on 3 cylinders, you could also do what rv6john said, and start the bike up from cold, and then feel if any of the headers stays cooler than the others.
Might lead you in the right direction.
Did you buy the coils from a reputable seller? New or Used? Did you push them onto the
spark plugs ends all the way? (Do you still have the old coils? Might need them.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I had a quick look at the video.

I'm not a mechanic, but it sounds like it's maybe running on 3 cylinders. It sounds like a Triple.
That's also most likely the reason why you need to keep the revs at 2000rpm at idle. The bike should normally, happily idle at 1300rpm. Eg. Suzuki GSXR 750 K7 Start Up and Sound

You've changed a bunch of stuff, so It's a bit hard to know which way to go from here.

So, when you bought the bike, it was non-running? You replaced the ECU and it started up.
A fried ECU on this model is usually because the Rectifier (and sometimes Stator) goes bad
and causes over-voltage which blows the ECU.
Has the Rectifier and/or Stator been recently replaced? Have you checked that the Battery is being charged?
(NB. When the bike is running, the voltage across the battery terminals should be about 14.5 volts.)

Anyway, because it sounds like the engine is running on 3 cylinders, you could also do what rv6john said, and start the bike up from cold, and then feel if any of the headers stays cooler than the others.
Might lead you in the right direction.
Did you buy the coils from a reputable seller? New or Used? Did you push them onto the
spark plugs ends all the way? (Do you still have the old coils? Might need them.)
Yes I have all the old parts that I replaced but it was still doing the same thing also just realized the cylinder all the way left (if you were to sit on the bike) its not fireing. I checked the connector unplugged plugged it back in and also checked if there was power going to it and there is power going to it. I don't think it's a bad plug because I had changed them all, then I changed them all again and it's still doing it. What does that mean? So yes you were correct the bike is running on 3 cylinders but why would that start now?. Could it have fouled out? At one point the bike was running great after I replaced everything now all of the sudden it started acting up. Idk if the RR was replaced or not but battery will charge while riding and will hold a charge. I will have to use a multimeter to check the voltage tho. But even with the old coil packs it's still doing the run on 3 cylinders thing?. I think we are getting closer to the issue I'm hoping at least. Why would only one plug not fire? The 3 to the right work fine it's but the one all the way left? Fouled out? Bad plug coincidence 2 times In a row? Or wiring issue?. I have a light probe and it showed the connector was flickering so I don't think it's a wiring issue because the harness was never cuz open. Light probe shows power flicker as the spark plug would flicker but spark plug isn't actually sparking. Why wouldn't that throw a code?
 
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