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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 GSXR1000 with a lower engine clunking noise. I have searched several forums regarding lower engine clunking noise, but none match my situation or ended like this one without resolution. The noise goes away when I pull the clutch lever. In neutral at low rpms it really bangs around and becomes smaller as the rpms increase to 2k, but it is still there though more like a vibration above 2k instead of the deep clunking at around 1k. I can directly feel the vibration on the Sprocket Cover, more specifically the Clutch Cable Cam. I created a few YouTube videos to share the noise and poking around.

1) To hear the actual clunking

2) Checked for loose parts under the sprocket cover

3) Basket has slight (<1mm) in and out play, but no up/down, no right/left, and no wobble

My bike sat outside over the winter and I am trying to get it back on the road, but cannot find and fix the clunking noise. From other Posts, I tried new plugs, new air filter, petrol/gas treatment but no luck. I studied the old plugs and all four look exactly the same and all look normal with plenty of life left with two having a gap just over 0.80mm while the other two were about 0.75mm. I want to take it on a long ride to clear it out, but need to know it is safe first.

Any help is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
@marchese

When you disengage (pull the lever) the clutch the noise goes away. So you changed the plugs, air filter etc.?

That's kinda like changing the oil and filter to fix a nail in the tire. LOL

Start a new thread, but it sure sounds like your clutch had some problems, no?
Yes, plugs and filters were a long shot, but I had them and they were on my to do list. I also think it is the clutch but do not want to steer a conversation in the wrong direction. I am most worried if the engine has a bad bearing so would be relieved if it is just a clutch component. When I pulled the clutch cover, I found the clutch push bearing on the wrong side of the clutch push piece and thought I fixed the noise. That could be a good indication of what I might find if I go further into the clutch. I also wonder if the issue is on the clutch side or the sprocket cover side or rods in between.
 

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Do you have a manual for it? There should be data on what is acceptable play in those parts. Given you found a spacer in the wrong place you may want to pull the clutch assembly and re-install according to the manual including the proper torque specs. Exploded views are available on most parts sites, I use suzukipartshouse.com. That will confirm you have things in the correct order at least.

I don't know if it would cause the issue but having the incorrect order of friction plates and steel plates in your clutch stack crossed my mind. Also have a quick check of the oil from the pan for metal shavings or glitter.
 
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That the noise about goes away when you push on the clutch release lever is the major clue to me.

I was going to say that it might be the release bearing under the outer clutch plate cover but you say you have addressed that. I'm unsure how this bearing could be "on the wrong side" as mentioned.

Just a thought but when you press on that release lever the whole clutch basket and primary shaft gets pushed to the right so I would check the nut holding the inner basket to the shaft as well as the ball bearing behind the basket.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just a thought but when you press on that release lever the whole clutch basket and primary shaft gets pushed to the right so I would check the nut holding the inner basket to the shaft as well as the ball bearing behind the basket.
Yes a loose nut might be creating some play as well as damage to bearing No. 2. Also, I wonder if poorly adjusted clutch lifter pins (slipper clutch adj) or loose springs on the inner basket could cause the noise. I dismissed incorrect stack height because the bike rolls off well though I have trouble returning back to neutral, so I turn off the bike to shift to neutral.

@Tinsnips I have the service manual so will carefully disassemble and reassemble per the manual checking that every piece is in spec since comments are pointing to a problem somewhere in the clutch assembly. There was no metal when I drained the oil the first time I pulled the clutch cover.

295752
 

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When the clutch lever is released most of the clutch is solidly locked together so it would not make any noise. However if the #21 nut is loose and/or the splines in the #4 inner basket are worn it could create the chatter on the primary shaft, #1 below, splines. I don't think this would damage the bearing but the bearing could be loose on its own.


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Take a look at the Gear Shifting section too. Per 3-91/92 in the service manual (varies depending on version) there are several parts that could foul the clutch if something came loose. There are also parts like shift forks inside with the gears that might be clunking around.

"My bike sat outside over the winter"
This is a stretch but is there any chance that the coolant froze? I'm thinking that you're not running it long enough to see what the temperatures stabilize at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
"My bike sat outside over the winter"
This is a stretch but is there any chance that the coolant froze? I'm thinking that you're not running it long enough to see what the temperatures stabilize at.
Doubt the coolant froze since my area only reached a couple of degrees below freezing a few times and my coolant is 25% coolant / 75% water.

On Saturday, I plan on disassembling and reassembling the clutch following the Service manual. I hope I find that nut #21 is loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I use Redline Water Wetter which works better with just water, but does nothing for anti-freeze. So, I mix it with coolant to prevent freezing though rare in my area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just pulled out the clutch and noticed excessive play of the inner basket, see YouTube link below. Nut #21 was torqued so I did not get lucky. Though I am hoping that a washer is missing to cause the loose inner basket. Also, some play with the clutch push piece, but seems normal. I will upload disassembly photos, soon. A bit later, I will inspect each part versus the service manual and update here.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Magnetic piece of metal found somewhere in the clutch. I noticed it on the magnet tool I used to disassemble.
295780
295781
295782
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
YouTube video of very loose parts of the inner basket and a video of a couple of loose springs of the outer basket. The inner basket splines are also noticeably bumpy, see photos in previous post. Do I need to replace either basket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I went through the entire clutch versus the service manual. Two of the wave spring washers are at 4.1mm below the 4.3mm service limit height while the third is right at 4.3mm.

The drive plates look newish and are well above their service limits and half the driven plates had a slight warp but within service limit of 0.10mm. Oddly, the inner most driven plate is 2.0mm and the next is 2.6mm while the rest are 2.3mm. Service manual has all driven plates 2.3mm with the option to swap out the outermost if needed. My total stack height is 1.91in/4.85cm.

The clutch lifter pins were recesed so I guess my slipper was not working, so will adjust.

I need at least two wave spring washers. Could all the noise be due to weak wave spring washers?

Do inner baskets typically have loose parts as shown in my YouTube video and are the groves on the splines bad enough to require attention? I read somewhere that I can file the splines flat.

For the outer basket, are loose springs a problem?

Should I replace the 2.0 and 2.6 driven plates with two 2.3 or at least move the 2.0 and 2.6 to the outermost locations as per the manual?

Thank you for any help!
 

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I do not have one to compare it with but I'm 95% sure the inner clutch hub is your noise. I believe the steel spline part is riveted to the outer aluminum part but the rivet/pins have worked loose from the aluminum..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I do not have one to compare it with but I'm 95% sure the inner clutch hub is your noise. I believe the steel spline part is riveted to the outer aluminum part but the rivet/pins have worked loose from the aluminum..
Thanks, so I ordered an inner basket, two slipper clutch wave springs, and two 2.3mm metal clutch plates. Hopefully they will arrive by Saturday when I have time to install.

Since I have the outer basket sitting in my living room, I am tempted to drill the three holes for extra oil. However, I think I am easy on my clutches since I always ride off gently from stop and never drag race. The hardest I am on my clutches is down shifting and engine breaking into twisties and I always blip the throttle. From what I read, the extra oil holes probably will not benefit my style of riding, so I would prefer to keep my bike stock/factory if there is no benefit.
 

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Thanks, so I ordered an inner basket, two slipper clutch wave springs, and two 2.3mm metal clutch plates. Hopefully they will arrive by Saturday when I have time to install.

Since I have the outer basket sitting in my living room, I am tempted to drill the three holes for extra oil. However, I think I am easy on my clutches since I always ride off gently from stop and never drag race. The hardest I am on my clutches is down shifting and engine breaking into twisties and I always blip the throttle. From what I read, the extra oil holes probably will not benefit my style of riding, so I would prefer to keep my bike stock/factory if there is no benefit.
This mod for the K5/6 1000, IIRC, is to get rid of the clutch chatter at takeoff.
I had great results just replacing the conical washer listed in Post #1 of that thread. Also, IIRC- they now use that part # if you get a replacement one for the K5/6.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
295799


Weather was bad this evening and I was stuck inside with my outer basket, so I decided to go drilling for oil! Also, I ordered the k7/k8 clutch wave spring, so when reassembled, I hope for a smooth and quiet clutch!
 
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