Suzuki GSXR Forum banner

2006 GSXR1000 Lower Engine Clunking Banging

9K views 37 replies 7 participants last post by  krontals 
#1 ·
I have a 2006 GSXR1000 with a lower engine clunking noise. I have searched several forums regarding lower engine clunking noise, but none match my situation or ended like this one without resolution. The noise goes away when I pull the clutch lever. In neutral at low rpms it really bangs around and becomes smaller as the rpms increase to 2k, but it is still there though more like a vibration above 2k instead of the deep clunking at around 1k. I can directly feel the vibration on the Sprocket Cover, more specifically the Clutch Cable Cam. I created a few YouTube videos to share the noise and poking around.

1) To hear the actual clunking


2) Checked for loose parts under the sprocket cover


3) Basket has slight (<1mm) in and out play, but no up/down, no right/left, and no wobble


My bike sat outside over the winter and I am trying to get it back on the road, but cannot find and fix the clunking noise. From other Posts, I tried new plugs, new air filter, petrol/gas treatment but no luck. I studied the old plugs and all four look exactly the same and all look normal with plenty of life left with two having a gap just over 0.80mm while the other two were about 0.75mm. I want to take it on a long ride to clear it out, but need to know it is safe first.

Any help is appreciated.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
@marchese

When you disengage (pull the lever) the clutch the noise goes away. So you changed the plugs, air filter etc.?

That's kinda like changing the oil and filter to fix a nail in the tire. LOL

Start a new thread, but it sure sounds like your clutch had some problems, no?
Yes, plugs and filters were a long shot, but I had them and they were on my to do list. I also think it is the clutch but do not want to steer a conversation in the wrong direction. I am most worried if the engine has a bad bearing so would be relieved if it is just a clutch component. When I pulled the clutch cover, I found the clutch push bearing on the wrong side of the clutch push piece and thought I fixed the noise. That could be a good indication of what I might find if I go further into the clutch. I also wonder if the issue is on the clutch side or the sprocket cover side or rods in between.
 
#3 ·
Do you have a manual for it? There should be data on what is acceptable play in those parts. Given you found a spacer in the wrong place you may want to pull the clutch assembly and re-install according to the manual including the proper torque specs. Exploded views are available on most parts sites, I use suzukipartshouse.com. That will confirm you have things in the correct order at least.

I don't know if it would cause the issue but having the incorrect order of friction plates and steel plates in your clutch stack crossed my mind. Also have a quick check of the oil from the pan for metal shavings or glitter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Spyder13
#4 ·
That the noise about goes away when you push on the clutch release lever is the major clue to me.

I was going to say that it might be the release bearing under the outer clutch plate cover but you say you have addressed that. I'm unsure how this bearing could be "on the wrong side" as mentioned.

Just a thought but when you press on that release lever the whole clutch basket and primary shaft gets pushed to the right so I would check the nut holding the inner basket to the shaft as well as the ball bearing behind the basket.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Spyder13
#5 ·
Just a thought but when you press on that release lever the whole clutch basket and primary shaft gets pushed to the right so I would check the nut holding the inner basket to the shaft as well as the ball bearing behind the basket.
Yes a loose nut might be creating some play as well as damage to bearing No. 2. Also, I wonder if poorly adjusted clutch lifter pins (slipper clutch adj) or loose springs on the inner basket could cause the noise. I dismissed incorrect stack height because the bike rolls off well though I have trouble returning back to neutral, so I turn off the bike to shift to neutral.

@Tinsnips I have the service manual so will carefully disassemble and reassemble per the manual checking that every piece is in spec since comments are pointing to a problem somewhere in the clutch assembly. There was no metal when I drained the oil the first time I pulled the clutch cover.

295752
 
#6 ·
When the clutch lever is released most of the clutch is solidly locked together so it would not make any noise. However if the #21 nut is loose and/or the splines in the #4 inner basket are worn it could create the chatter on the primary shaft, #1 below, splines. I don't think this would damage the bearing but the bearing could be loose on its own.


295753
 
#7 ·
Take a look at the Gear Shifting section too. Per 3-91/92 in the service manual (varies depending on version) there are several parts that could foul the clutch if something came loose. There are also parts like shift forks inside with the gears that might be clunking around.

"My bike sat outside over the winter"
This is a stretch but is there any chance that the coolant froze? I'm thinking that you're not running it long enough to see what the temperatures stabilize at.
 
#8 ·
"My bike sat outside over the winter"
This is a stretch but is there any chance that the coolant froze? I'm thinking that you're not running it long enough to see what the temperatures stabilize at.
Doubt the coolant froze since my area only reached a couple of degrees below freezing a few times and my coolant is 25% coolant / 75% water.

On Saturday, I plan on disassembling and reassembling the clutch following the Service manual. I hope I find that nut #21 is loose.
 
#11 ·
I just pulled out the clutch and noticed excessive play of the inner basket, see YouTube link below. Nut #21 was torqued so I did not get lucky. Though I am hoping that a washer is missing to cause the loose inner basket. Also, some play with the clutch push piece, but seems normal. I will upload disassembly photos, soon. A bit later, I will inspect each part versus the service manual and update here.


 
#16 ·
I went through the entire clutch versus the service manual. Two of the wave spring washers are at 4.1mm below the 4.3mm service limit height while the third is right at 4.3mm.

The drive plates look newish and are well above their service limits and half the driven plates had a slight warp but within service limit of 0.10mm. Oddly, the inner most driven plate is 2.0mm and the next is 2.6mm while the rest are 2.3mm. Service manual has all driven plates 2.3mm with the option to swap out the outermost if needed. My total stack height is 1.91in/4.85cm.

The clutch lifter pins were recesed so I guess my slipper was not working, so will adjust.

I need at least two wave spring washers. Could all the noise be due to weak wave spring washers?

Do inner baskets typically have loose parts as shown in my YouTube video and are the groves on the splines bad enough to require attention? I read somewhere that I can file the splines flat.

For the outer basket, are loose springs a problem?

Should I replace the 2.0 and 2.6 driven plates with two 2.3 or at least move the 2.0 and 2.6 to the outermost locations as per the manual?

Thank you for any help!
 
#17 ·
I do not have one to compare it with but I'm 95% sure the inner clutch hub is your noise. I believe the steel spline part is riveted to the outer aluminum part but the rivet/pins have worked loose from the aluminum..
 
#18 ·
Thanks, so I ordered an inner basket, two slipper clutch wave springs, and two 2.3mm metal clutch plates. Hopefully they will arrive by Saturday when I have time to install.

Since I have the outer basket sitting in my living room, I am tempted to drill the three holes for extra oil. However, I think I am easy on my clutches since I always ride off gently from stop and never drag race. The hardest I am on my clutches is down shifting and engine breaking into twisties and I always blip the throttle. From what I read, the extra oil holes probably will not benefit my style of riding, so I would prefer to keep my bike stock/factory if there is no benefit.
 
#21 ·
Is it possible that the 3 x Wave Spring Washers (No 17) were installed in reverse?
I don't have this bike, I have the K4 with non slipper clutch.

Do a dry install. Make sure parts,
No.1,
No.22,
No.17 x 3,
No.23,
No.24,
are all there.

Make sure it is able to be torqued down correctly, and you are not just running out of threads.

These videos may help a bit.

 
#22 ·
Those are good videos which I have watch several times.

My new inner basket arrived and there is absolutely no movement between the parts, see first video below. Any thoughts on what cause the parts on my old inner basket to become extremely loose, see second video below? My bike has 44k mi, but doubt the miles cause that much damage to the inner basket. My guess a previous owner/mechanic did something very wrong, but what?



 
#36 ·
Those are good videos which I have watch several times. My new inner basket arrived and there is absolutely no movement between the parts, see first video below. Any thoughts on what cause the parts on my old inner basket to become extremely loose, see second video below? My bike has 44k mi, but doubt the miles cause that much damage to the inner basket. My guess a previous owner/mechanic did something very wrong, but what?
Has anyone tried rebuilding a moving inner basket? I'm thinking of tightening the rivets which would fix it, what do you think, is it worth it or is it better to buy a new one?
 
#23 ·
Wait a minute. Wheetabix comes in Fruit and Nut over there? Damn, we should never have left.

Post up when you get it sorted. Interested in how this plays out.
 
#24 ·
Parts arrived early and I had a fee evening so the clutch is in. I installed a new inner basket and three Clutch Plate Wave Washers - 1 old within 4.3mm service limit, one new factory 225N, and one new Yoshimura 300N. I installed 21621-41G00 and replace the 2.0 and 2.6 metal plates with two new 2.3 metal plates. No more clunking and absolutely no vibration on the sprocket cover. I put my bike into first and let the clutch move it a few feet several times and put it back into neutral. All seems to be working though it was getting late so it only ran it a few minutes.

When I can, I will let my GSXR warm up and take a video near the sprocket cover for a before and after. I took several photos while assembling and am more than happy to post if wanted. I hope to test the slipper and engine breaking in a couple of weeks after I get my K6 back on the road.

Thanks to everyone who provided advice on this thread and Stocky and JetSpeedz for the detailed clutch mod!
 
#25 ·
Pics of your assembly are always helpful to the next guy.

Glad you got it fixed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Todd_Sails
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top