[zraffz]

Hey guys, I'm new to the world of street bike motors. I am a car guy, I know Chevy engines pretty well but this is a different world to me.
I recently purchased a 07 GSXR1000 bike motor with the harness, headers, and everything else. I bought it off a friend and I was told the stator itself needs to be replaced. The motor is going into a quad.
Is their anyway to hook up the wiring harness and maybe make sure this motor runs without replacing the stator? Will the bike start with the bad stator in it if I have a fully charged battery? Anyway to "push start" it with the bad stator?
Now I haven't really taken a good look at this yet but is it possible to hook the starter directly to the battery and run it off a switch to avoid needing the ignition? or is their an easier way to go about doing this?
One of the header pipes is crushed pretty badly to the point where it is almost completely pinched closed, if I were to cut the pinched part out and sleeve it, would the difference in back pressure from one exhaust port screw anything up?
and of course, the million dollar question, I know open headers in a car will destroy the valves, but if I don't put a pipe on this motor and I don't have any form of exhaust right after the butterfly valve (that restricts the exhaust or whatever it does, with the 3 settings) will it cause harm to the motor? Atleast can I do it temporarily, I want to get it running and test it out before I dump a ton of money into this thing so the cheaper I can do all this the better.

 

[Tro1086]

I doubt running the bike with just the header long enough to test it would hurt it. But I would make sure to get a real exhaust before you put the engine into service, atleast get a new stock header to replace the broken one. The bike should run fine without the stator, as long as the battery is fully charged, youll just be running the bike off the battery. All the stator does is keep the battery charged, its like the alternator in a car, so the bike should still run long enough to check the motor out as long as you have a good battery. As far as starting it without the ignition? Youd have to look up some wiring diagrams to figure that one out. Youd probably just have to switch a couple wires in the ignigion harness to turn the elec. on and off, and then just put a push button switch in on the two wires that would normally hook to the starter switch on the handle bars.

 

[Mr645]

The bike will run without a full exhaust. Just make sure you have the headers attached to pull heat from the head. It may not run well missing the back 1/2 of teh exhaust but you won't damage anything except your hearing

 

[Tro1086]

Just dont run it for to long without a proper exhaust. If its lean because of increased exhaust flow you could end up burning stuff up inside your motor. If you dont want to spend the money on a power comander and getting it tuned and everything I would sudgest you just use the stock exhaust. You could use an aftermarket slip-on to give her more sound without changing the flow enough to worry about having to get it tuned. Usually if you put a whole new exhaust on thou you want to get a power comander and get it tuned so its not running to lean.

 

[zraffz]

One more question, you've been very helpful I figured the stator was like a alternator but I wasn't sure.
Does the gas tank have a fuel pump or is it gravity fed? I only got the motor and harness, no acessories like gauges, ignition, or fuel tank.

 

[Tro1086]

Yes these bikes have fule pumps. Gota have some pressure for the injectors to create a nice spray. They are in the fuel tank, but since your putting this on a ATV you might want to see what people who build go carts, etc. do about fuel pump. Might be easier to find an aftermarket pump to use with your setup. A stock pump is probably gona run you $450+, and then your gona have to figure out how to put it in your ATV tank. A set of gauges would also be handy. Could probably pick up a used cluster for a decent price. Could maybe find a used ignition also, but if your not worried about having it keyed, a switch will work just as well. Or even just a cheap keyed switch from autozone or something. On a bike the ignition is just a switch to basically turn the electrical on and off, the starter just runs off a pust button. But you probably knew that.

 

[zraffz]

Alright thanks. The first step I am going to tackle this weekend is going to be hooking the harness up and rigging up and ignition switch; ultimately trying to get it to crank. After that I'll worry about a stator and fixing the header. Then I'll worry about the fuel pump.
But what is stopping me from finding out the PSI the fuel pump needs and getting a fuel pump from something else and just having a regulator on it? This doesn't have to run at the peak power this motor is rated at, it will be scary enough ripping around on a quad with even 100 hp.

 

[WoodShoe]

Alright thanks. The first step I am going to tackle this weekend is going to be hooking the harness up and rigging up and ignition switch; ultimately trying to get it to crank. After that I'll worry about a stator and fixing the header. Then I'll worry about the fuel pump.
But what is stopping me from finding out the PSI the fuel pump needs and getting a fuel pump from something else and just having a regulator on it? This doesn't have to run at the peak power this motor is rated at, it will be scary enough ripping around on a quad with even 100 hp.

You can get a used fuelpump on ebay for less than a 100 bucks. If you dont have the right fuel pressure its not going to run right. Also I run a straight pipe on my bike without problems. Sounds kinda like shit sometimes when youre not the one riding it... but from on the bike with helmet its decent. loud obviously

 

[zraffz]

Hmmm I guess I should just buy a fuel pump instead of rigging it haha. But as far as getting this thing to run without the ignition, I assume it is basically the same as a car except for the fact this has an electric fuel pump (I'm used to old school chevy motors, carbs and mechanical fuel pumps; anything more is beyond my understanding still).

The wiring diagram looks very confusing to me...
So can I just run a wire from the coil directly to the battery (this is how I have hotwired a vehicle in the past, basically it is giving power to the dash) using a switch to control power on/off? That would be my kill switch for overall power.
And then can't I just bypass the solenoid or run a switch directly from the starter to the battery to get the starter to turn over?
I assume this would work but then my next issue becomes fuel management because the fuel pump won't turn on. Yet again, another switch from the fuel pump to the battery? Basically I'd end up with three switches I'd need to turn on in order to get the motor to start; one for overall power, one for ignition, and one for the fuel pump.
at this point it seems like a lot of easy rewiring that I am capable of doing but I'm sure their is an easier way, anybody have suggestions?

 

[WoodShoe]

Hmmm I guess I should just buy a fuel pump instead of rigging it haha. But as far as getting this thing to run without the ignition, I assume it is basically the same as a car except for the fact this has an electric fuel pump (I'm used to old school chevy motors, carbs and mechanical fuel pumps; anything more is beyond my understanding still).

The wiring diagram looks very confusing to me...
So can I just run a wire from the coil directly to the battery (this is how I have hotwired a vehicle in the past, basically it is giving power to the dash) using a switch to control power on/off? That would be my kill switch for overall power.
And then can't I just bypass the solenoid or run a switch directly from the starter to the battery to get the starter to turn over?
I assume this would work but then my next issue becomes fuel management because the fuel pump won't turn on. Yet again, another switch from the fuel pump to the battery? Basically I'd end up with three switches I'd need to turn on in order to get the motor to start; one for overall power, one for ignition, and one for the fuel pump.
at this point it seems like a lot of easy rewiring that I am capable of doing but I'm sure their is an easier way, anybody have suggestions?

You said you have the harness, i assume you have the ECU also? The ECU requires several things to be true before it will let you turn over; Kill switch must be on, kickstand must be up if in gear, key must be on, clutch disengaged. And since you dont have the hand controls etc., you will need to close the loop on those circuits before the fuel pump will turn on. Run the harness to the battery as its designed to go and all your systems should be a go without having to make all kinds of switches.... just rig up a push button start, and Bob's your uncle.

 

[zraffz]

You said you have the harness, i assume you have the ECU also? The ECU requires several things to be true before it will let you turn over; Kill switch must be on, kickstand must be up if in gear, key must be on, clutch disengaged. And since you dont have the hand controls etc., you will need to close the loop on those circuits before the fuel pump will turn on. Run the harness to the battery as its designed to go and all your systems should be a go without having to make all kinds of switches.... just rig up a push button start, and Bob's your uncle.

Oh okay, yeah I do have the ECU. I didn't think it would be that simple though.

 

[WoodShoe]

Oh okay, yeah I do have the ECU. I didn't think it would be that simple though.

If you had a cluster it would be a big help because if something doesnt work you can pull the codes and easily identify whats keeping it from working. Let us know how it goes.

 

[Tro1086]

Ya it would be much easier to try to keep the harness as intact as you can, instead of putting switches everywhere. If you can just find a wiring diagram of the bikes ignition/harness plug, you can figure what wires are switched when the key is turned to "ON" and then all your systems (pump/starter relay/coil/etc) will all just come on the way they were ment to. Then just rig a push button for the starter, and like he said, bobs your uncle.

Also like he said, you will have to find all the wires for the safety stuff, i.e. clutch switch, kickstand switch, and jump those together, so the ECU thinks the circuit is complete and will allow the bike to start. I imagine each one is just a 2 wire deal, and you would probably just have to jump the 2 wires together. Or you could actually use them to make your own safety and rig up the clutch switch to the clutch on the ATV.

Good luck, that thing is going to be BAD ASS when you get it runnin. What kinda quad are you puttin it in?

 

[Tro1086]

If you had a cluster it would be a big help because if something doesnt work you can pull the codes and easily identify whats keeping it from working. Let us know how it goes.

+1. I would deffinately get a cluster and just mount it on the ATV, it would be nice to know your RPMs, even if the speedo is off.

 

[zraffz]

I eventually will get a cluster for it, but it's a low budget project at the moment b/c I'm also building a Firebird Trans Am. I got the motor pretty cheap, I am buying a Yamaha Blaster rolling chassis and cutting off the top half of the frame and rewelding the motor around it.
I need to take measurements on the cage of the Yamaha Blaster still, I imagine I will have to cut the sides and top of the frame off, make motor mounts (somewhat like shackles off a truck) and after the motor is in place and the chain is on the sprocket, I will then refabricate the rest of the chassis back together, I don't doubt I'll have to widen it and make it a little taller too. Reason I am using a blaster frame is they are cheap little quads (found a few without motors for under $500) so even if I have to fabricate my own frame I still have the rest of the blaster parts to use.

My friend races shifter karts that run on methanol, if I were to run methanol through this motor (not that I need the extra power) would the computer compensate for it and would it be bad for any seals/rings that this motor has inside of it? I figure if I am spending time building this I want to see if I can smoke some street bikes at the local drag strip.

 

[Tro1086]

No idea about the motor seals and methanol. Im not sure about the K7, but I dont think the computer in these bikes really "compensates" for anything. Thats why when you see people getting a full exhaust and high flow air filter, etc. They also get a power commander and get it custom tuned, to get the air/fuel ratio back into proper spec. If you run the engine lean for to long youll fry it. I know the new new bikes have 02 sensors in the exhaust (your K7 1000 motor may?), so you would think the ECU would use this to adjust the a/f ratio. But for some reason people still go the power commander route, not really sure why. If your gona run methanol you would probably have to do some powercommander/ECU tuning on a dyno. If you find out the seals can take methanol.

As far as the drag strip. If you put a long swing arm on it and some slicks on the back. I bet the ATV would hook up alot better then a bike, and you could probably whoop a bike off the line. Top end may be a diffrent story. The ATV would probably be heavier and less aero dynamic. Personally I think it would funner to have it set up more for the dirt rather than the flat/straight drag. You could tear some shit up in the dirt with that thing. Iv riden a Raptor 700 in the dirt and that was pretty damn fun, I can only imagine one with a gixx 1K motor, that would be insane!

 

[WoodShoe]

My friend races shifter karts that run on methanol, if I were to run methanol through this motor (not that I need the extra power) would the computer compensate for it and would it be bad for any seals/rings that this motor has inside of it? I figure if I am spending time building this I want to see if I can smoke some street bikes at the local drag strip.

There is no need to run anything other than recommended octane. Without any power adders or a tune it will prolly run slower since the ECU is programmed for that specific octane rating.

 

[zraffz]

I'm starting to question if the motor will even fit in a Blaster. I looked at a frame the other day and it looks pretty small.
Here is the quad I looked at:

I think I'm going to cut the frame apart and lengthen it like 6-8 inches and then I still have to widen the frame too. I'm 6'3 and like 180 lbs so I don't really think I'm going to fit on it too well haha.
Like maybe the picture below, if I modify the frame before the swing arm it might work:

And then just rebuild the rest of the frame around the motor. I have a tube bender and welder, I think it's possible to do. Once the motor is on the bottom of the frame I think it's pretty strait forward. Hardest part would be remaking the fender flares, I'd probably use sheet metal and run struts underneath it.

Ideas/tips are welcome.