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Wednesday I was riding about 70mph when my bike cut off by itself and then had no power. I had someone bring my tools and a new battery as well as fuses, When I removed the seat my battery was sweating and there was corrosion on the positive side of the battery I changed it and also all fuses even the 30amp. Now my bike has power the clusters and lights work but when I flip the kill switch nothing happens you don't hear the fuel pump prim or nothing.....Im lost any thoughts???:0001136745-facepalm
 

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Not trying to be an ass but it is in neutral right? I am figuring you were in gear when it quit and pulled the clutch to coast to a stop. Would be easy to forget it was in gear.
 

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When the bike originally cut off, did your lights and gauges go out too, or just the motor stopped running?

If you lost the engine and lights/cluster, that would point to a blown main fuse, most likely caused by an over charged battery, which fits your description of the battery.

Was the "new" battery brand new, or just new to you?

Have you checked the charge on it while trying to start the bike?

Same thing happened to me when my batteyr was over charged due to getting a cheap rectifier on ebay. Thought my battery was fine because it was reading the correct voltage with the bike off, but the bike wouldn't start (lights and cluster worked, but bike wouldn't crank at all. I believe my fuel pump was priming though or else I think I would have remembered that it wasn't).

Let us know what the voltage reading on the battery is when you try to start it.
 

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Did you find out what it was?
Wednesday I was riding about 70mph when my bike cut off by itself and then had no power. I had someone bring my tools and a new battery as well as fuses, When I removed the seat my battery was sweating and there was corrosion on the positive side of the battery I changed it and also all fuses even the 30amp. Now my bike has power the clusters and lights work but when I flip the kill switch nothing happens you don't hear the fuel pump prim or nothing.....Im lost any thoughts???:0001136745-facepalm
 

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Did you find out what it was?
Are you having the same issue?
This is a classic fried ECU.
I'm guessing a cheap Chinese Ebay R/R failed in over volt, and when the battery cooked out the voltage really spiked and fried ECU. It's happened a number of times before. The usual symptom is the fuel pump no longer cycles with key on and usually "CHEC" shows continuously in the temp window.
 
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Are you having the same issue?
This is a classic fried ECU.
I'm guessing a cheap Chinese Ebay R/R failed in over volt, and when the battery cooked out the voltage really spiked and fried ECU. It's happened a number of times before. The usual symptom is the fuel pump no longer cycles with key on and usually "CHEC" shows continuously in the temp window.
Is this a "common problem" across the full line of GSX models? If not, which models in particular?
 

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Is this a "common problem" across the full line of GSX models? If not, which models in particular?
I have not seen any issues except those caused by over voltage problems. And that issue seems to be only caused by the Chinese R/Rs. OEM and other R/Rs just seem to either stop charging or go out in a puff of smoke and short to ground taking out the main fuse with no other damage.

Do a search for "rotten egg smell" and you should find some posts.

There have been a number of K5/K6 1k bike ECUs fail for no determined reason if I remember correctly.
 
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Are you having the same issue?
This is a classic fried ECU.
I'm guessing a cheap Chinese Ebay R/R failed in over volt, and when the battery cooked out the voltage really spiked and fried ECU. It's happened a number of times before. The usual symptom is the fuel pump no longer cycles with key on and usually "CHEC" shows continuously in the temp window.
I figured that’s what it would be. I’m ordering a new to me ECU off eBay today. You described the exact symptoms of my bike. It overcharged and blew my batt. Replaced rectifier and kill switch and fuses just to be safe. Now I don’t get prime at my fuel pump. Has to be ECU.
 

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I figured that’s what it would be. I’m ordering a new to me ECU off eBay today. You described the exact symptoms of my bike. It overcharged and blew my batt. Replaced rectifier and kill switch and fuses just to be safe. Now I don’t get prime at my fuel pump. Has to be ECU.
Please let us know if the ECU fixes it. It will add to the memory bank.
 
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I figured that’s what it would be. I’m ordering a new to me ECU off eBay today. You described the exact symptoms of my bike. It overcharged and blew my batt. Replaced rectifier and kill switch and fuses just to be safe. Now I don’t get prime at my fuel pump. Has to be ECU.
UPDATE: just replaced ECU. Bike still the same. I flip key, dash lights up, needles move up and back down, CHEC is on, no fuel pump prime. Yes bike is in N.
 

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UPDATE: just replaced ECU. Bike still the same. I flip key, dash lights up, needles move up and back down, CHEC is on, no fuel pump prime. Yes bike is in N.
Hmm. Not good. I'm guessing this was a used ECM?

Is there anyway you can swap one of the ECMs into another running bike to check them? 2006 or 2007, 600 or 750 will work.
 

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So I found out it’s probably not the ecu. My ignition fuse keeps popping every time I flip the kill switch on. And for the record, it’s a 2017 GSXR 600. No power to red/yellow wire at fuel pump. Going to replace relays, but will that fix the ignition fuse popping every time?
That makes sense as the Y/R wire also supplies power to the ECM.

On a hunch, unplug the ECM and see if the fuse still blows then the fuel pump itself. Otherwise, you need to start tracing the wires and components till you find the short.

I'm unaware of any common reason for the fuse to keep blowing. I've not heard of a relay shorting, they just stop working.
 

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That makes sense as the Y/R wire also supplies power to the ECM.

On a hunch, unplug the ECM and see if the fuse still blows then the fuel pump itself. Otherwise, you need to start tracing the wires and components till you find the short.

I'm unaware of any common reason for the fuse to keep blowing. I've not heard of a relay shorting, they just stop working.
UPDATE pt2: it was the ECM I traced wires R/Y all the way back to ecm it wasn’t giving power to my fuel pump, it was all easy w the diagram. Tested it by popping fuses at every connection. I guess the first time I forgot to check fuse when I dropped ecm in.
 

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UPDATE pt2: it was the ECM I traced wires R/Y all the way back to ecm it wasn’t giving power to my fuel pump, it was all easy w the diagram. Tested it by popping fuses at every connection. I guess the first time I forgot to check fuse when I dropped ecm in.
So the ECM is shorted out?
 

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UPDATE pt2: it was the ECM I traced wires R/Y all the way back to ecm it wasn’t giving power to my fuel pump, it was all easy w the diagram. Tested it by popping fuses at every connection. I guess the first time I forgot to check fuse when I dropped ecm in.
UPDATE pt2: it was the ECM I traced wires R/Y all the way back to ecm it wasn’t giving power to my fuel pump, it was all easy w the diagram. Tested it by popping fuses at every connection. I guess the first time I forgot to check fuse when I dropped ecm in.
Here is the diagram.

So the ECM is shorted out?
Yes my original ECM was shorted out. I was riding my bike and it just went out at like 100 so towed it home battery top had popped off fuses fried. My rectifier went bad and in turn overcharged the battery and fried the ecu. It wouldn’t prime when I would flip the kill switch. Dropped a used eBay ECM in, but forgot to check the fuse the first time. Put OEM back in and traced it by popping fuses/diagram help. It was the black plug on the ecm. L7 600
 

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Here is the diagram.



Yes my original ECM was shorted out. I was riding my bike and it just went out at like 100 so towed it home battery top had popped off fuses fried. My rectifier went bad and in turn overcharged the battery and fried the ecu. It wouldn’t prime when I would flip the kill switch. Dropped a used eBay ECM in, but forgot to check the fuse the first time. Put OEM back in and traced it by popping fuses/diagram help. It was the black plug on the ecm. L7 600
Makes sense now, thanks for the updates.
 
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