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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Someone please help ive had this bike for almost four years an done all the work to it myself.. it has 50k miles on it. The bike will not stay running on its own. I’ve tried adjusting the idle but seems the only way to fix the problem doing that its to set it seriously high.. thats not the only problem tho it also pops alot out the exhaust like its misfiring for sure.. no flames tho just pops. The bike used to go 156 now i can bearly get it to go 125-130. The take off from a dead stop is no where near smooth like it used to be i have to over rev it just to take off an not stall out.. i have to constantly hold the throttle to keep bike on and sometimes when it dies on me it dont wanna start right back up it take 5-10 mins or a push start to get it going. I have a volt metter on bike so i knkw my charging system is working just fine ive tried
Process of elimination but i
Can’t figure this one out. Ive already replaced the spark plugs, air filter, coil packs, throttle body, fuel pump fuel filter and fuel rail, fuel injectors, tps , and stva wtf else could be causing this please someone help me
 

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Welcome to the forum.

Can you drop a link here to a youtube video of what it sounds like?

Does it idle poorly all the time?

50k miles. When were the valves checked last and have you done a leakdown and compression test?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes I will make a video right after work tomorrow its to late to start her up tonight my neighbors would have a cow..
Yes it does idle poorly all the time runs a little better when warmed up but still like shit at all times.
No never had the valves checked..
I am going to do a compression test as soon as the tools comes in that i bought.
Not exactly sure what a leakdown is can you school me brother?
 

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Yes, don't piss off the neighbors.

My guess is the bike does not start easily when cold?

The first thing I would do would be a valve clearance check, the bike is at the miles where adjustments are usually needed.

The check is pretty easy, the actual adjustment takes some decent mechanical ability and the service manual. I think you can also double check cam timing while you have access to the cams.

You really need to find out if the bike is mechanically sound before diving into other possibilities.

A compression test is done while you are cranking the bike and gives you a general condition of the rings, valves and cylinder wear.

A leakdown test is when you put compressed air in each cylinder when it is at TDC on combustion stroke (valves closed) and see how much leakage you have and also where it is leaking from. (listening at the intake, exhaust and oil fill port).
 

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I would make a fuel flow and pressure tests as described in repair manual. Also valve clearance adjustment will be good idea for those miles, as John sayd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes definitely hard to keep on cold but does start right up every time.. imma post the video of how it sounds in couple hours stay tuned hopefully that will give you guys a better idea of whats goin on with it..
 

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The reason I ask is that a common symptom of valve clearances being too small (or no clearance) is that the bike is hard to start, but runs better as it warms up. (The cylinder head expands and adds clearance) The condition gets worse till the bike runs poorly almost all the time.

Unlike old push rod cars, the clearances routinely get tighter due to the valve wearing into the seat and stretching.
 

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I heard lean mix on video, also bike needs some idle/synch adjust I think. So I still recommend to do fuel tests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The was revving it like that to keep it on it doesn’t actually do that i just wanted you to hear the sound it makes when its about to die almost a knock but not quite.. what tests should i run before pulling the motor out??
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It still revs to the redline in neutral but when im riding it i cant get passed 12k rpms in 5th and passed 10k in 6th 1st thru 4th i can get to 16k just takes longer then normal
 

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It sounds to me like you have a dead cylinder. I could hear it the way the starter cranked it and how it sounded running. This also explains the poor idle.

Start the bike and spray some water on each exhaust header after it has run for minute and see if one header is significantly colder than the others (I actually like to use LPS1 or WD40 but there may be flames :eek:)

The way it cranked on the starter, I'm guessing you will find low compression on one cylinder. A compression test will find and/or confirm this.
 
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I would look into the tip sensor, sounds like the symptoms of that sensor being dislodged, if you get it out thebtail and shake it and it rattles, that's yours cause for the fuel pump being shut of due to that sensor.

I didn't read all the other people's in depths answers so in your Journey of troubleshoot8ng, think about the Tip over Sensor. You van open it up and manipulate the sensor . Just a option. Knux
Sorry, but this is a waste of time, you might as well change the air in your tires.
 

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The was revving it like that to keep it on it doesn’t actually do that
I understand.

i just wanted you to hear the sound it makes when its about to die almost a knock but not quite..
I heard it, it is normally when about to die. Knocking sound when about die is not a problem, problem is dieing.


what tests should i run before pulling the motor out??
Some common tests to narrow space of seeking. So make the compression check and check for colder cyl as John sayd to exclude low compression and bad spark issues. I also recommend to do the fuel flow test and fuel pressure test as those described in repair manual.
All tests are very simply.
 
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