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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,
My 1000 has been a NIGHTMARE to start the season. First big ride of the year it was running so so well. Pulling hard, just got it back from the shop to have valves done and some other regular maintenance. I haven't owned the bike that long but its always run well.

Later on that ride we went into the city and it stalled at a red light. Weird. Started back up okay until the next light. Stalled again and I couldn't get it going. Towed it to the shop. They said throttle bodies, which I had an extra set so I dropped off. Was still going it. They said wiring harness, which I sourced and had them replace. They told me they had it running and fixed and it did it again to me on the way home. NOW. This time there was no dash code, nothing, just wouldn't start. I noticed the temp was hovering around 220F. I tried cranking it again a few mins later and it sputtered but didn't start. Then had a HUGE backfire. Gunshots loud. Then it started. For about 30 seconds before I had to stop in traffic again. Pulled over, same issue. Cooled off a bit then started. I eventually got it home. Cold starts like a champ. Once its up to temp, it has a real real hard time re-starting and doesn't seem to want to stay idling. Had the same gunshot start sound after letting it idle up to temp, turning it off, and then trying to restart it again. I need the temp to drop below 200 before It will fire.

At this point I'm done taking it to the shop. The head guy said the bike had 'gremlins'. I understand its a tricky problem to solve, but I don't want to pay shop rates for them to just experiment with things. Does anyone have ANY ideas? Bad gas? Now....one thing I noticed is that the headlight has been replaced by an aftermarket one and it has those HID ballasts. Could those be fucking with the electrical or something?

Anyways, its super frustrating. Any help or similar experiences people could share would be super good.
 

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If you search a bit for "CKP" (crank position sensor you will find at least three thread where the owners went thought everything twice and it turned out to be a bad CKP sensor. None of them gave any fault codes.

About the only way to catch it is to check for spark while it is hot and not wanting to start. There will be no or erratic spark.

Agreed, do not go back to that shop. The harness diagnosis is crap unless it was crispy critters or the connectors were corroded or failed. The throttle body guess was just that.
 

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Was there no warranty on the repairs that they performed? I would not pay for work that was not done satisfactory.
 

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SuperMod of the North
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Is it possible the valves are actually tight now? Tight valves cause hard got starts do they not?

Kick me out of tech for a while if this is steering the thread down the wrong road. I am guessing.
 
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Nope tin that is one thing to check. Had a honda one time that I did a half ass valve adjustment and didn’t do it when it was stone cold. It would run perfect when first started the warmer it got the worse it ran finally I adjusted the valves like the manual said and whalla problem solved. Crank position sensor is high on the list to check as well.
 

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Dying at a light can be associated with a bypassed or stuck clutch switch. This causes the ECM to set the ISC valve at an incorrect value. Something like that might be happening with yours. Alternately the ISC might be clogged or stuck.
 

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On my 03 1000 I had it backfiring and dying when it got hot. It would restart and start to back fire over and over until it was cooler. Mine was a ecu
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the suggestions guys! It's going into a different shop this week to be looked at so I'll let you know what he comes back with.
 
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