[kynsiatatsu]

I have not. I had a bad experience back in the day with an external bang, not an internal bang haha but the car does have spark and the injectors have no voltage on yellow/red so i feel once i diag and fix the main power to the 8 injectors, it'll be good to go

 

[MadisonMotorsportUK]

OK, to test the 4 pin relay without a proper tester.



Use a multimeter set to resistance (or continuity if you have a meter with audible test function), and put one lead on terminal A and one on terminal B. At this point, you should get no audible tone or a reading of "1." which means open circuit.

Put +12v to terminal C, 0v to terminal D

You should now hear an audible tone from the multimeter or the reading on the display should change from "1." to something like "0.0" or "0.1". This means the relay is working. You may also hear the contacts inside the relay click over but it's not guaranteed.

 

[kynsiatatsu]

OK, to test the 4 pin relay without a proper tester.



Use a multimeter set to resistance (or continuity if you have a meter with audible test function), and put one lead on terminal A and one on terminal B. At this point, you should get no audible tone or a reading of "1." which means open circuit.

Put +12v to terminal C, 0v to terminal D

You should now hear an audible tone from the multimeter or the reading on the display should change from "1." to something like "0.0" or "0.1". This means the relay is working. You may also hear the contacts inside the relay click over but it's not guaranteed.

So i just replaced the relay with an off brand cross reference part from Autozone that was only $7 instead of $50 for a new part.

Relay clicks on, clicks off. Yellow/red never sees power. I have 12.5 on the other 3 wires. I changed the yellow/red with the Orange/white. Have power at the rail, but still won't start as the orange/white has no power then.

Im wondering if the off brand relay is built backwards from the suzuki relay? I need to find a diagram of the suzuki relay to compare to the aftermarket one

 

[kynsiatatsu]

So the G8MS relay is a common upgrade for my honda goldwing apparently. I do believe i need to swap pins 3 and 5 to make this autozone relay work correctly...in my mind sending power down 3 to 5 would make it operate right currently the relay has power on 1, 2, and 5 but won't connect to 3 to power the coils

 

[peter079]

The diagram on that relay looks to be correct. Don't swap the wires around.

The Y/B has to go with O/W on the 1 and 2(relay coil).
The R/Bl and Y/R go to 3 and 5.

Like I was saying, you will only have power on the Y/R for the first 3 seconds. Then it will
turn off. Also you will only have power to injectors for the first 3 seconds.

(The ecu runs the fuel pump and fuel relay and injectors for initial 3 second prime)

If you stick your ear on the relay, you may hear a click On then a click Off, as
soon as you turn the key switch.

 

[kynsiatatsu]

The diagram on that relay looks to be correct. Don't swap the wires around.

The Y/B has to go with O/W on the 1 and 2(relay coil).
The R/Bl and Y/R go to 3 and 5.

Like I was saying, you will only have power on the Y/R for the first 3 seconds. Then it will
turn off. Also you will only have power to injectors for the first 3 seconds.

(The ecu runs the fuel pump and fuel relay and injectors for initial 3 second prime)

If you stick your ear on the relay, you may hear a click On then a click Off, as
soon as you turn the key switch.

Alright so 830pm update, found broken yellow/red wire where all 8 tie into the main. Motor will run on go go gas (brake cleaner) but the injectors don't appear to be firing. Looked into TPS adjustment and the line will only be on top or on bottom. Possibly due to the C60 code and not being C00.

Motor sounds good on brake cleaner. Need to look into injector ground signal, battery voltage at the yellow/red wires while cranking 9.6v, thats probably my issue. Hooked up to my goldwing with jumpers and still only about 9.8 while cranking.

I think i need to ohm test the battery to stater wire

 

[peter079]

The 8 into the main Y/R wires are probably the injectors. The voltage gets pulled down quite a bit
while cranking. I think I only get 10.4v. If you have 9.8 at the injectors that should be enough.
Give it a charge up anyway.

I'm wondering if you could back probe the (primary) injectors with a test light (Eg. Noid Light).
To see if they are firing while cranking? If they do then the ground is good.

 

[kynsiatatsu]

The 8 into the main Y/R wires are probably the injectors. The voltage gets pulled down quite a bit
while cranking. I think I only get 10.4v. If you have 9.8 at the injectors that should be enough.
Give it a charge up anyway.

I wondering if you could back probe the (primary) injectors with a test light (Eg. Noid Light).
To see if they are firing while cranking? If they do then the ground is good.

I have tested three injectors and they all operate with external power. I found a broken black/yellow wire but no idea which of the 2 things it could go to...clutch switch or cmp sensor the wire is broken in the middle of the harness so its nearly impossoble to figure out which, i need to find the other half of the broken wire tonight...

But still the only code is C60 for the coolant relay

 

[kynsiatatsu]

So today i connected the 2 black and yellow wires together... No change, crank no start... Can't find the other end for the cut wire...

Is it possible that this car had a power commander on it and in the ecu they removed the fuel injectors during because the pc5 ran them??? I ordered a pc5 off ebay anyway, just curious

 

[peter079]

I don't have any experience with the power commander, but I believe they still need the injector
signal from the ecu.

You said you had 9.8v on the Y/R wires. Were you testing at the injectors?

I was thinking that maybe your injectors are firing. It's just that there's in no fuel behind them.
You said that the fuel pump has it's own circuit, so I'm guessing it's no longer run by the ecu but
has it's own switch and relay.

How far is the fuel tank from the engine?
Is fuel reaching the injectors?

(NB. As far as I know, only the lower (primary) injectors fire at idle).

 

[kynsiatatsu]

I don't have any experience with the power commander, but I believe they still need the injector
signal from the ecu.

You said you had 9.8v on the Y/R wires. Were you testing at the injectors?

I was thinking that maybe your injectors are firing. It's just that there's in no fuel behind them.
You said that the fuel pump has it's own circuit, so I'm guessing it's no longer run by the ecu but
has it's own switch and relay.

How far is the fuel tank from the engine?
Is fuel reaching the injectors?

(NB. As far as I know, only the lower (primary) injectors fire at idle).

So i have jumped the car with my goldwing, had 10.5v while cranking. Found and installed a relay on the cooling fan relay plug (no more C60 code, now dealer mode is - C00.

I got the TPS set corrently, i was adjusting the secondary butterflys before, not the primarys butterflys haha

i tried the 150ohm resistors, and got the C23 code, reinstalled the tip over sensor, back to no codes, so removing tge grey wheel from inside the 2009 TOS module works to bypass the sensor i assume.

i tried the resistors in multiple orientations, the sensor it self ohms around 5k so...no idea whats actually needed for an 09...

according to the single diagram ive found, the Y/R wire only supplies power, and the ecu grounds the injectors as needed...also a PC5 does require injector signal from the ecu...

Im starting to hevily lean into having to buy a new ECU for this racecar.

i have good fuel and pressure at the fuel rail, i removed the quick connect at the factory rail and filled my 5gal gas can at 41psi

 

[peter079]

I don't usually encourage anyone to buy an ECU, cause I've been wrong before. We have had a few dead ecu's come through this site, but they are usually dead as door nails. Will not give error codes, no communication with dash, no ignition spark, etc.
But yours seems to be doing everything correct. It's even giving spark at the correct time.

The best test would be if someone was willing to install your ecu into their bike to see if it runs. I know this is not always possible.

You said that you tested the cam sensor and crank sensor so we'll assume they are good. And you are getting spark, and the engine does run (with starter fluid). You could still check the B/Y cam sensor wire has continuity from the connector to the ECU(Pin 8). You said this may have been the broken wire.

 

[kynsiatatsu]

I don't usually encourage anyone to buy an ECU, cause I've been wrong before. We have had a few dead ecu's come through this site, but they are usually dead as door nails. Will not give error codes, no communication with dash, no ignition spark, etc.
But yours seems to be doing everything correct. It's even giving spark at the correct time.

The best test would be if someone was willing to install your ecu into their bike to see if it runs. I know this is not always possible.

You said that you tested the cam sensor and crank sensor so we'll assume they are good. And you are getting spark, and the engine does run (with starter fluid). You could still check the B/Y cam sensor wire has continuity from the connector to the ECU(Pin 8). You said this may have been the broken wire.

I tested both sensors with their resistance rating compared to what i found online for the "good range" on both...i will continuity test the wires to the ECU tonight and see whats going on.

Thank you for all the help so far

 

[peter079]

Are you using the k9 1000 workshop manual? The ecu pin outs should be in there.

Or this website has K7-K8 1000 pin outs which should be the same. Not as clear, but has the wire colors.

gsxr ecu pinouts

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ai4Y2AOLyZFddFVzVlFuQUU4X200b0NEUEpISG04X1E#gid=0 K5-K6 1000 pinout K7-K8 1000

k1bastard.blogspot.com

The pins on the ecu are small and fragile so be careful. If you bought the car non-running then check for any broken ones, you never know who's been there. Everything needs to be turned Off, before disconnecting the ecu.

You might want to check that the B/W Ground wires have good continuity to Battery Negative. I think there are three.
Pins 36, 68, 71. Pin 68 is probably the important one. (Don't confuse with pin 5).

 

[kynsiatatsu]

I have been using this diagram to figure things out. I have taken the ecu off before to check for loose wires, where i had found orange/white loose, and a blue wire of sorts pushed away from the ecu pin. The K7/K8 ecu pinout doesn't match the color wires ive messed with on my harness...strange...right connector, top left pin 12 shows orange/green, but mine is Orange/white...

I will have to compare the pin out with my harness, maybe someone messed with the wires and they're put back wrong? No idea...

Middle row 3 wires in same connector says pin 22, pink. Mine is definitely a light blue type color. Wonder if the harness was replaced with an incorrect harness?

 

[peter079]

Pin 12 is the power source for the ecu. Depending on country it is O/G for UK, and
O/W for US. The rest should be the same. Pin 22 (Gear Position Sensor) should be Pink.

I think your harness is correct.

 

[kynsiatatsu]

So Saturday update: i have good connection through the harness to the ecu. While cranking, the injectors show O/L then i have continuity after i stop trying to start.. im thinking maybe one of the sensor wires might be bad between the sensor and ecu? But the motor runs on starting fluid so i don't get it...

 

[XPOH]

So Saturday update: i have good connection through the harness to the ecu. While cranking, the injectors show O/L then i have continuity after i stop trying to start.. im thinking maybe one of the sensor wires might be bad between the sensor and ecu? But the motor runs on starting fluid so i don't get it...

Do the fuel pump prime when you turn ignition on?

 

[peter079]

Make sure all the injectors are connected. Then disconnect one of your lower primary injector connectors. Then give the engine a good long 4 second + of cranking. Do you get a code for that injector?

 

[kynsiatatsu]

Make sure all the injectors are connected. Then disconnect one of your lower primary injector connectors. Then give the engine a good long 4 second + of cranking. Do you get a code for that injector?

So doing this gave me code C32, injector #1 signal. Reconnect and its gone...so the ecu is definitely seeing the injectors...strange...very strange