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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello guys, I got a 2011 GSXR 600 and all is great except the ignition switch was in pretty bad shape so I got a replacement kit from Amazon, I replaced the fuel cap, seat lock and switch. But now the bike does not start. I can hear the relays click and what seems to be the pump priming but that's it.

It seems obvious the problem is the switch. Especially upon trying the old banged-up switch where it works 100% of the time. So I proceeded to compare them internally and I noticed the new switch has only three contact prongs instead of four (see photo), and it also has a somewhat different wiring order on the contact plate. I tried to use one of the contact prongs but they're different sizes.

What I last tried was to rebuild the new switch but instead of using its contact plate, I decided to try using the old contact plate in its place, and now I SOMETIMES manage to start it, but most of the time it just cranks and cranks without ignition.

Any ideas or suggestions?
 

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It looks like the wrong ignition switch?
 

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Amazon switches tend to come from China and not have anti-theft features that Suzuki incorporated and expect to be present. Do you have an immobilizer or is it a US model? I'm suspicious that what you're hearing is the EXCV system initializing and not the fuel pump priming. I'm unfamiliar with L1 600 details but on non-immobilizer models there commonly is an O/Y lead from the switch to the ECM that needs a 100 ohm resistor in it. This is normally missing on Chinese switches. To complicate things, Suzuki normally doesn't include it in wiring diagrams, etc. You should see the resistor when you disassemble the OEM switch, typically on the underside of the wafer with the leads to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I forgot to update: I managed to fix the problem. I swapped some internals from the old switch to the new and it's been working great ever since. The problem was the internal plastic guide, I replaced it with the original one that's metallic and it worked.

Thanks guys
 

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I forgot to update: I managed to fix the problem. I swapped some internals from the old switch to the new and it's been working great ever since. The problem was the internal plastic guide, I replaced it with the original one that's metallic and it worked. Thanks guys
Did you happen to take any pictures of that when you did the work?
 
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