[craigfer63]

My SD story post #5. here.
STD, Steering Damper. Being an Australian with Scottish heritage, I am the original tight fisted Scott.
K7 1000.
I tried refilling my std damper. 5W because I was changing fork seals. * DON'T USE 5W OIL IN YOUR STEERING DAMPER *.Big tank slapper's.
Then I tries 10W better, still unstable.
15W better.
20W better. still a little shake.
25W, Now this must have over powered the tired solenoid actuator and I was back to NO DAMPER !!!.
A fun exercise,... not, but something I wanted to do and learnt a bit on the way.
All because I would not pay the $1000 for a Ferrari steering damper.
So now I will be the Test Pilot for this $50 copy.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33033603222.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802tRs0Bd
So far so good, at setting 10 with 6 more to go.
Definitely better than the 14 year old STD damper.

Steering dampers

I read through an old steering damper thread, many people re filled the std dampers .Question is would not the air in the dampers be from leaking seals? If so how long does refilling them last ? I suppose it depends how bad the seals are.

www.gixxer.com

 

[QRO]

My SD story post #5. here.
STD, Steering Damper. Being an Australian with Scottish heritage, I am the original tight fisted Scott.
K7 1000.
I tried refilling my std damper. 5W because I was changing fork seals. * DON'T USE 5W OIL IN YOUR STEERING DAMPER *.Big tank slapper's.
Then I tries 10W better, still unstable.
15W better.
20W better. still a little shake.
25W, Now this must have over powered the tired solenoid actuator and I was back to NO DAMPER !!!.
A fun exercise,... not, but something I wanted to do and learnt a bit on the way.
All because I would not pay the $1000 for a Ferrari steering damper.
So now I will be the Test Pilot for this $50 copy.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33033603222.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802tRs0Bd
So far so good, at setting 10 with 6 more to go.
Definitely better than the 14 year old STD damper.

Steering dampers

I read through an old steering damper thread, many people re filled the std dampers .Question is would not the air in the dampers be from leaking seals? If so how long does refilling them last ? I suppose it depends how bad the seals are.

www.gixxer.com

Are you able to test for tank slappers then, somehow?

That would be a very useful exercise if it could be done safely.

I'm trying to figure if it is better to lean forward and down in a tank slapper to stabilise it, or sit up. Can't remember, can't figure it out.

I think there are a couple of reasons for wheel wobbles and your reaction has to be different in those cases, but I am not sure about any of it.

 

[VIzuki]

My SD story post #5. here.
STD, Steering Damper. Being an Australian with Scottish heritage, I am the original tight fisted Scott.
K7 1000.
I tried refilling my std damper. 5W because I was changing fork seals. * DON'T USE 5W OIL IN YOUR STEERING DAMPER *.Big tank slapper's.
Then I tries 10W better, still unstable.
15W better.
20W better. still a little shake.
25W, Now this must have over powered the tired solenoid actuator and I was back to NO DAMPER !!!.
A fun exercise,... not, but something I wanted to do and learnt a bit on the way.
All because I would not pay the $1000 for a Ferrari steering damper.
So now I will be the Test Pilot for this $50 copy.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33033603222.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802tRs0Bd
So far so good, at setting 10 with 6 more to go.
Definitely better than the 14 year old STD damper.

Steering dampers

I read through an old steering damper thread, many people re filled the std dampers .Question is would not the air in the dampers be from leaking seals? If so how long does refilling them last ? I suppose it depends how bad the seals are.

www.gixxer.com

Like I said steering dampers all of them are useless when exiting a corner with all weight of the wheel hard on throttle but trying not to induce a wheelie. This don’t happen on 600’s sure first gear from 0-40mph.
especially high way pulls against people where y

 

[VIzuki]

Are you able to test for tank slappers then, somehow?

That would be a very useful exercise if it could be done safely.

I'm trying to figure if it is better to lean forward and down in a tank slapper to stabilise it, or sit up. Can't remember, can't figure it out.

I think there are a couple of reasons for wheel wobbles and your reaction has to be different in those cases, but I am not sure about any of it.

it’s better to be over front before a tank slapper especially when passing on highway. Or out of a turn.

 

[QRO]

it’s better to be over front before a tank slapper especially when passing on highway. Or out of a turn.

Ah! The trick is knowing when is 'before a tank slapper'. If I knew that I wouldn't have any, I am sure!

My personal preference is to spend most time at high speed tucked so I guess that's the right place. Seems to me that is how you're meant to ride sports bikes and works fine for me.

Some tank shapes are annoyingly really bad for that, some are "perfect". It's fairly OK on L0 750 but a wee bit of extra chest padding helps on the L0.

This guy was quite well tucked (at 1 min 44 seconds) and it didn't seem to help him.

 

[Mathieu9836]

The SD will help REDUCE the left and right swing of the steering head, it will NOT eliminate suspension/riding problems. Most people still think Electronic SD work the same as the good ol' mechanical ones, but that not the case at all. It's at rod with a piston on it, stuck in a cylinder. There is a solenoid valve that is OPEN all the time unless the ECU send duty cycle ( 12Volt percentage, how much time it is ON versus OFF). The ECU control how much oil as too flow through the PISTON ORIFICE. Changing oil viscosity will increase the "stiffness" of the damper when the valve is closing, if the valve is open it change about nothing to a very small amount.
How to you change that you will ask: ECU tuning. Flashing your ECU and changing how the ECU behave is the only way to fix this without physically changing the damper for a mechanical damper.
I my case i flashed the ECU and asked for 15% increase over all the speeds. Now i have 15% Duty Cycle from 0 to 50mph instead of 0% (valve is fully open).
Now, THIS wont fix you bad riding habits and your suspension issues. Most of the mysterious tank slappers are suspension related, a small amount is the riding hanging on the bars like a monkey in a tree.

 

[matt365]

My SD story post #5. here.
STD, Steering Damper. Being an Australian with Scottish heritage, I am the original tight fisted Scott.
K7 1000.
I tried refilling my std damper. 5W because I was changing fork seals. * DON'T USE 5W OIL IN YOUR STEERING DAMPER *.Big tank slapper's.
Then I tries 10W better, still unstable.
15W better.
20W better. still a little shake.
25W, Now this must have over powered the tired solenoid actuator and I was back to NO DAMPER !!!.
A fun exercise,... not, but something I wanted to do and learnt a bit on the way.
All because I would not pay the $1000 for a Ferrari steering damper.
So now I will be the Test Pilot for this $50 copy.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33033603222.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802tRs0Bd
So far so good, at setting 10 with 6 more to go.
Definitely better than the 14 year old STD damper.

Steering dampers

I read through an old steering damper thread, many people re filled the std dampers .Question is would not the air in the dampers be from leaking seals? If so how long does refilling them last ? I suppose it depends how bad the seals are.

www.gixxer.com

I bought a similar damper off e-bay (chinesium) to replace the stock non-adjustable version off my old Tuono v4rr. Worked fine, but you need to locktite the bolts and the heim-joint to the rod. Mine worked itself loose.

Looks to me like an old Hyperpro copy. For $50 bucks, its worth trying.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

 

[QRO]

I just refitted the fairings, post-winter layup, and I've never noticed before how poor the wiring is from the loom to the steering damper (on L0).

It's just sort of hanging out of the loom and easily rubs on the front fairing and weaves around as you swing the bars one way/other. Something more appropriate looks like it could be better, maybe it was a tweak they made for >L1?

I'd have fitted a spiral coil (desk 'phone style).

 

[Chango]

I just refitted the fairings, post-winter layup, and I've never noticed before how poor the wiring is from the loom to the steering damper (on L0).

It's just sort of hanging out of the loom and easily rubs on the front fairing and weaves around as you swing the bars one way/other. Something more appropriate looks like it could be better, maybe it was a tweak they made for >L1?

I'd have fitted a spiral coil (desk 'phone style).

I've got a zip tie wrapped around my leftover cables on my K6. I don't know if that's a good option for your bike/wires.

 

[Mathieu9836]

I just refitted the fairings, post-winter layup, and I've never noticed before how poor the wiring is from the loom to the steering damper (on L0).

It's just sort of hanging out of the loom and easily rubs on the front fairing and weaves around as you swing the bars one way/other. Something more appropriate looks like it could be better, maybe it was a tweak they made for >L1?

I'd have fitted a spiral coil (desk 'phone style).

If my memory is good, there is some sort of rubbery sleave over the SD wiring of my L1 750

 

[QRO]

If my memory is good, there is some sort of rubbery sleave over the SD wiring of my L1 750

I expect there probably was on mine, as it has someone's past repair on it now. Maybe OK for a few 10k miles. Then it gives up. For Suzuki ,I'd say just a bad design. regular harness is meant to stay fixed, not flop around. Flop-around parts need to be designed to flop around, not just a length of harness.

I'll take a photo of it later on.

 

[craigfer63]

Are you able to test for tank slappers then, somehow?

That would be a very useful exercise if it could be done safely.

I'm trying to figure if it is better to lean forward and down in a tank slapper to stabilise it, or sit up. Can't remember, can't figure it out.

I think there are a couple of reasons for wheel wobbles and your reaction has to be different in those cases, but I am not sure about any of it.

Hold on ! With all your strength. Your arms become the steering damper. Smooth throttle, always smooth throttle up and down.

 

[QRO]

Hold on ! With all your strength. Your arms become the steering damper. Smooth throttle, always smooth throttle up and down.

That is not enough. If you actually try to interfere with it it is more likely to get worse, not better. Just let go, and steer with your body.

 

[VIzuki]

Hold on ! With all your strength. Your arms become the steering damper. Smooth throttle, always smooth throttle up and down.

No lighten grip and pray the front syncs up with the rear. You don’t want to induce on and off front suspension oscillation that makes it worse.

 

[rv6john]

This vid from years ago always comes to mind when considering bike stability and tank slap.

 

[QRO]

Which I think is proving that it's low centre of gravity that helps the bike stabilise, would you agree?

 

[Ghost020]

Doing my best to educate myself on steering dampers, I ran across this.
It seems these guys thing the stock steering damper is rubish...

 

[HydeWhyte]

Decided to get back into biking, 'cause life is too short to put it off any longer. Current plan is a brand new GSX-R750. Was thinking about getting a steering damper for my previous bike, but left it too late. It would have been cheaper than the parts and gear I had to buy after the speed wobble.

My question is, "Is the stock steering damper a good one or should I get an upgrade?" Obviously (seems to me) if I can afford a new bike I can afford a steering damper.

I have a 2018 750 with the stock damper, have put over 10,500 miles on it so far, and haven't had any wobble incidents. Been riding on the streets since about 1978 and have only had 1 incident and that was on a 1978 KZ1000 under hard acceleration where it suddenly started rapidly slapping wheel-lock to wheel-lock. Scared the ever-living crap out of me and I have no idea how I recovered control, just thankful that it happened before crashing. I blamed it on a crappy worn-out Bridgestone front tire, put on a Dunlop Sport Elite and after a short period of smooth sailing never looked back.

Long story short, I don't see a problem with the stock dampers but if it makes you feel safer you should go with the best you can find. Confidence matters.

 

[Todd_Sails]

Ah! The trick is knowing when is 'before a tank slapper'. If I knew that I wouldn't have any, I am sure!

My personal preference is to spend most time at high speed tucked so I guess that's the right place. Seems to me that is how you're meant to ride sports bikes and works fine for me.

Some tank shapes are annoyingly really bad for that, some are "perfect". It's fairly OK on L0 750 but a wee bit of extra chest padding helps on the L0.

This guy was quite well tucked (at 1 min 44 seconds) and it didn't seem to help him.

That one at 5:40 in the video, there where HUGE trees on each side of a tight road!

 

[Todd_Sails]

Hold on ! With all your strength. Your arms become the steering damper. Smooth throttle, always smooth throttle up and down.

I tend to ride the exact opposite. Light touch to the bars most all times. I never have speed wobbles. KNocks on wood.