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Hmm, not seeing a video. Where is it?
First indication for tight valves is usually hard starting, or once hot the bike chokes out rolling up to a stop. If neither are a factor, and again your mileage suggest its not an issues then valve adjustment is probably not your problem. Yes you can get away with multiple valve adjustments on just 1 valve cover gasket, but as stated make sure its not damage and have black RTV on hand.

Based on temperature differences along and assuming there isn't a valve issue...I would record your temp differences, then swap the injectors around, let it cool off, and do it again to see if your temp difference has moved. If so you have a bad injector. If not your left with compression and leak down.

Compression testing is not as accurate as leak down but will give you a good idea on your ring/cylinder life. Warm the engine (doesn't have to be scorching hot), then remove your airbox and spark plugs. Use a bungee to tie the clutch lever to the handle bar unless you have a buddy with you. Remove the throttle bodies completely or make sure both sets of butterfly's are completely open. Screw in the tester hose (10mm threads I believe (I bought the motion pro kit)) snug, not overly tight then give it 5-7 cranks at a time. Record, rinse, and repeat. Compare with Suzuki's recommended ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks EVL 750.

Here are links to two video clips taken yesterday. They were taken on my cell phone so they aren't perfect. The first clip should be with the engine at about 85 degrees. I pull out of my driveway, and slowly accelerate from a 25 to 45 mph speed zone. The engine does not want to easily climb up in RPMs. Not sure if you more experienced riders can hear it or not.
The second clip the engine is at about 145 degrees. I pull out from a stop onto a 55 mph zone and the bike easily and willingly accelerates. This is the stretch of road I usually accelerate above 10,000 for brief instances, but didn't yesterday. Maybe these will help some??



Here is the link again for the engine warming up. You really need to hear all 2+ minutes of it.


Thanks,. Karl
 

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Thank you for the videos! They definitely help minus the blurry bit. So what I notice:

Your temperature does not increase much in any of the videos. Starting in 2006 the 600s and 750s went to a higher compression engine which meant the temps climbed rapidly, but yours is doing Opposite the regardless of your outside temperature.

This to me means (especially your difference in temps on each cylinder) that you have a loss of compression (most likely worn rings). A loss of compression will also create a sluggish take off, erratic idle (idle should be at 1200, but need it higher to keep from stalling), change in voltage to the battery near 180 degrees or when the fans cut on, and a loss of power overall/up top.

Questions:

Does your engine/bike vibrate significantly more nowadays especially in the handlebars?

Does it take a long time for your bike to heat up to the point of your fan cutting on?

What weight oil, is it synthetic, how often do you change it, is it motorcycle specific, does the oil level seem lower than what you put in, do you notice lots of sparkly bits in it during oil changes?

Do you have to crank the bike for a bit to get it started or hold the throttle open some?

What do your spark plugs look like?

What color smoke comes from your exhaust when you give it high revs Or hang the high revs then let off?

Does your exhaust have the butterfly or is it a straight pipe?

Can you get the engine to red line while it’s just sitting after it’s heated up or does it never go past 10k?
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
EVL 750, unfortunately I chat from my phone so it's not very easy for me to copy and paste your questions but I'll do my best answering them.

I do not notice any more vibration from the handlebars.

I know what you mean about the engine heating up and when I first got the bike two full summers ago yes it did heat up quicker than it does now. This past winter I completely flushed the radiator system, rinsed with distilled water and then refilled with zerex g05 coolant and distilled water 50/50 mix. I also added water wetter. Since then I have noticed that the bike runs cooler than it did originally.
Last night I only had about a five minute ride home from work. I parked the bike in the garage at 150°. I went in my basement to take off my helmet gloves and jacket. I came back out and the bike was at 180. Within about 2 or 3 minutes it was up to 219 - the fan kicked on and cooled the bike back down.
Today I was out and tried to be in traffic as much as I could. When I returned home the bike was at 180. I parked it in my garage and after the same thing taking off helmet gloves etc I was up to 200. Last night and today's ride I did not notice any sluggishness on takeoff when the bike was just warming up it accelerated fine. The video link you see posted was last night I ran the RPMs up easily to 13 plus and shifted it would have gone right to redline I just didn't run it that high.

You asked about my starting situation with the bike. The video of me starting the bike is a typical cold start it cranks a couple times and turns right over. I have never had to give it any throttle whatsoever since I got the bike I always just let it start from closed and never have a problem. When the bike is warmed up it probably cranks two times and kicks right over, quicker than when it's cold.
my oil is changed at the end of each riding season before I store it in my basement for the winter period I use Shell rotella t6 5w 40 synthetic oil which was recommended me from this website. I use genuine Suzuki oil filters. my oil is currently filled completely to the full line possibly a hair above I have not lost any oil all riding season and have put probably 2,000 mi on this summer. I did the same last year.

I never rev the bike up above 10,000 RPMs to me revving a bike up without any load on the engine that high seems like it's just asking for trouble. I guess I could try it once the bike is completely warmed up. I have never noticed any smoke from the exhaust.
My exhaust valve is disconnected at the motor and the cables are off of the butterfly. The butterfly is sprung open and I also have it wired to make sure it stays that way. I did unwire it and close it once earlier this summer to see the difference in sound of the exhaust and it is definitely muffled when that valve closes. I left it open again after that.

I have not checked the spark plugs this summer but I can pull them tomorrow morning and take a picture of them in the same order as I gave the temperatures for the exhaust pipes so you can see the difference in them compared to the temperature of the exhaust.
I bought the bike when I retired with some of my retirement funds, so you telling me I might have a ring problem is scary ($$). I thought I might have to do a valve clearence check over the winter, but even with the service manual I'm assuming rings are something I have to take it to a shop for??
Here is a short video clip of me running the RPMs up to 13 yesterday on the same stretch of road as before. Let me know what other questions/advice you have. If it's easier to talk on the phone I'll gladly give my number out to try to get this issue figured out.


Video was shot and looks best horizontally.

I usually clutchless shift when I pick up this fast but for didn't for some reason yesterday. Don't know why.
 

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Thank you for the descriptions.

So far I really can’t see anything wrong with the bike other than what you have described.

Maybe it was a very cold day when you took the other videos which kept the engine temp low? Where are you located? Your current temp description sounds completely normal. Your radiator flush sounds perfect in general and for cold weather.

After 10 years at a dealership, same amount of time road racing in WERA, and years of aggressive street riding I have never heard anyone use Rotella in a GSXR but that doesn’t mean it’s bad (usually Motul, Suzuki, Silkolene, Maxima, etc). As long as it’s motorcycle specific and the correct weight your usually good to go. For cold weather your weight seems low. Summer weight is 5w-20/30 and up, and cold weather I’d run no less than 10w-40 or 15w-30 with the bike never driving away until 100 degrees on the motor If not more but I also come from a lot of track and riding.

If your cables are disconnected then your butterfly will stay open on its own (designed that way with the spring). What having a free flowing exhaust will do is lean out the bottom end which causes a more sluggish take off, and can cause a jerky bottom end. I’m assuming you have a 2009 or later gsxr 600/750 With an exhaust like this 2011 Suzuki GSX-R750 MUFFLER | Babbitts Suzuki Partshouse ? You still have the butterfly wired open, the cat, and a jardine (hard to tell) slip on?

what about a power commander or Bazzaz? Ecu flash? Aftermarket filter?

reving an engine whether standing still or driving is no different, don’t be scared to do it, that’s why your rev limiter is there. What you should avoid is reving it before the engine is properly warmed up or your oil can be more like syrup and not coat everything especially in cold conditions.

For your shifting. You can do either. Clutch up and down, clutch less to go faster thanks to the constant mesh clutch, and clutch to go slower. Blippers and quick shifters are the same concept.

so with all of this said, what are your concerns at this point?
The only way to know your cylinder health is a compression test and the only way to pin point cynlinder/head leaks is a leak down test (This is the next step IMO). If you do not have the tools, service manual, or know how then yes the engine would need to go in to have the rings replaced assuming there is nothing else like cylinder wall damage, or other internal part wear.
 

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^^^ Where've you been? Tons of people use Rotella.


After thinking about this for a bit, I wonder if a sensor is going a bit goofy. I would try the following and reconnect after each test. You seem to know how to recreate the issue, so make sure you do the same each time (cold engine, cold air, etc.). If one of these has lost linearity, or is somehow being affected by heat, this should reveal it.

1) Disconnect the IAT and try to reproduce the issue.

2) Disconnect the IAP and try to reproduce the issue.

3) Disconnect the AP and try to reproduce the issue.
 

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I honestly have only seen 1 bike in person that used rotella. It’s just not a thing at dealerships, the track, or revzilla. The guy that used it said he went for what ever was affordable for his MT09.
That said, didn’t Ducs use it from the factory or have its sticker on the clutch cover years ago?
 

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I honestly have only seen 1 bike in person that used rotella. It’s just not a thing at dealerships, the track, or revzilla. The guy that used it said he went for what ever was affordable for his MT09.
That said, didn’t Ducs use it from the factory or have its sticker on the clutch cover years ago?
Ducks always said Shell
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'll keep checking the items you folks have mentioned and report back. The bike is a 2011 model. As far as I know, the only aftermarket performance mod was the Jardine GP1 slip on pipe (no baffle) that was on it when I bought it used at a dealer. The bike has the stock air filter and CAT present.
 

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I'll keep checking the items you folks have mentioned and report back. The bike is a 2011 model. As far as I know, the only aftermarket performance mod was the Jardine GP1 slip on pipe (no baffle) that was on it when I bought it used at a dealer. The bike has the stock air filter and CAT present.
Then, I would rule out the couple of small electronics suggested by chuckster and move on to compression etc. I doubt its electrical based on the difference in header pipe temps unless you have an injector that's failing.
 

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I just read this whole thread. Seems like you only have this issue when the engine is still warming up. The engine doesn't warm up as fast as it used to. Change the thermostat. Sounds like it is opening too soon. This doesn't sound like it should effect the runability that drastically, but it is where your symptoms are...

(Disclaimer: It's early, and I may have misread something.)
 
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I just read this whole thread. Seems like you only have this issue when the engine is still warming up. The engine doesn't warm up as fast as it used to. Change the thermostat. Sounds like it is opening too soon. This doesn't sound like it should effect the runability that drastically, but it is where your symptoms are...

(Disclaimer: It's early, and I may have misread something.)
I was going to suggest the thermostat, but his comment about the different cylinder temps ruled it out in my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I can order a thermostat. I just went for a decent length ride today and the temperature outside is about 70°. the engine temperature was running around 165 at highway speeds in town I did get it to go up to 200 because I had to stop at several lights. When I got home I left the bike running and used a non-contact infrared thermometer to check the header pipes again and got inconsistent readings each time I went across them it always seemed like the pipe on the right was running almost 100° cooler than the others but the thermometer did not measure the pipes a consistent temperature even though I was measuring it in the same location. As soon as I get the chance I'll check plugs also to see what they look like. I really hope if I end up getting a compression/leak down tester and find that it's rings that's something that I can do over the winter in my basement. I hate to think how much my local shop not a Suzuki dealer just local motorcycle repair shop would charge to do that.
 

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Every good working GSXR I have ever seen runs around 180 constantly until traffic, then it goes to 200+ but does not exceed 220 due to the stock programming for the fan temp. I don't believe you have a thermostat problem.

If you are looking at the bike from the front then cylinder 1 is on your right (clutch side). Regardless I believe you have 1 of the following problems.

Listed easiest to fix - hardest.

Faulty spark plug/spark plug wire.
Faulty injector/Injector wire.
Valve needing adjustment. (Is cylinder 1 tapping louder than the other or at all, if so it could mean you have a tight/loose valve).
Piston ring wear leading to a loss of compression (no compression = no heat)
 

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Don't read too much into pipes being different in temp. My bike was/is in near perfect condition and dyno tuned. I had some pretty big differences in pipe temps and did some trim tuning to get them all within 40 degrees of each other. When I started, I had some 100 degree differences. I'm sure you can see brand new bikes off the line with 100 degree differences. Could be throttle body balance, or injector trim. But even after I did my adjustments, other than the readings on the infrared, I couldn't tell any difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I know it's 11:30 Thursday evening but looking for some help while I have the bike apart. I did drain the oil down a little bit because it was definitely at the full line or above . The oil that came out is nice and clean other than used over the summer no sparkles in it the oil drain plug with magnet on it was perfectly fine there was no grit on that either. The air filter is fine - nice and clean it has one summer of use on it. Getting ready to check the plugs.
My coolant also looks fine it's topped off no oil in the coolant and there is definitely no coolant in the oil. I also don't blow any smoke out the tailpipe like I'm burning oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
When I posted pics of my previous plugs in a different performance issue thread, I thought someone said it was not uncommon for the bottom threads to be wet. The insulators, center and grounding electrodes all look about the same. That would mean all four cylinders are leaking the same????
Is my next step going to Harbor Freight when I get a chance and buying a compression/leak down gauge kit?
Here are pics of the plug wells. Looks like They came through 1, 4, 3, 2. my 1 is on left and 4 on right. You can't see my numbers in all pics.
 
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