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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

Once when trying to keep by bike from falling over, the left side plastics were pushed very hard against my leg, and it snapped of broke the location tabs were the left side plastics snap together.
Since then, despite me trying to fix alter the tabs once by supergluing the tabs back up taller where it snaps together. I get this gap you can see in the pic. I used to whack it with my hand, and it would stay for a few minutes, then open up a bit again.
I'm showing the gap in the pics. I'd like to get it to fit tight again.
I never remove the separate pieces of the side, always as a side unit.

I'm thinking snap it where it goes and use some silicone caulking inside? Epoxy cement? JB weld? What?

This is looking from the top down- the only time you see it. It's the gap between the white part of the plastics and the black part. Then the gap that supposed to be there and the frame.



 

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SuperMod of the North
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Does that tab push into a rubber grommet? A tiny bit of grease on my tank grommets helped a great deal with the push pins being able to fully seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No actually the side fairings are 2 or 3 pieces snapped together. It's those snaps that aren't holding anymore.
 

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SuperMod of the North
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Ah. Ok. Gotcha. Personally, as a mechanical guy by trade that has to work on stuff other people have “fixed” I have come to find that permanent “repairs” that can’t be undone usually come back to bite you in the ass.

Any “improvements” I make (professionally or on my own stuff) I try to do in a way that is reversible. Could be as simple as cutting off an OEM flange on a boiler so you can use a different pump cause it is a handy quick fix. Now you are stuck with a weird part.

If these are OEM fairings and I were you I would clean the clips and closely inspect them to see what the problem is. I’d avoid having to bond parts together if so could.

if they are aftermarket they are substantially less sacred and glue the shit out of them. Two part epoxy and wait the 5 minutes holding them. The risk with gluing iffy clips is they may set in the slightly off and gap producing position... now the gap is permanent. Like I said, everything in my world has to be reversible.
 

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SuperMod of the North
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Well shit. That was a Todd length reply in one of his own threads. Kinda proud of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well shit. That was a Todd length reply in one of his own threads. Kinda proud of that.
LOL, coming from you, I'll take that as a compliment. (I hope you've heard that phrase used before)

They are OEM- In good/excellent shape. Doesn't my bike look? It looks Marvelous LOL.

I hear you on the reversible. However, they only real time you'd reverse this is id you were replacing just one section of a side fairing.
I found some 2 part epoxy unopened in my garage 'stuff' today.
Ima gonna epoxy that shit! Just a little dab here, a little dab there- I think it'll hold. If I ever needed to pop them off again, I could chisel it off. So I'm trying to keep in the 'reversable' thing- for Tin, ya'll understand.
this will be done before my TD May 30th. Nobody notices it. I do- LOL
 

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SuperMod of the North
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If you want to go that route you might want to try to put a dab of epoxy on the joint then quickly install it in the bike and tape the faring to the frame in the correct position until it cures.
 
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One thing that has always helped me with fairings is checking the compatability of the adhesive to the material im attempting to bond it to. Modern epoxies are amazing E3000 etc but some work better than others for shear strength
 
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Discussion Starter #10
This doesn't really hold much. The 'tab' meaty part has broken off- NOT the whole tab.
The fairing is not about to fall off. NO zip ties of duct tape holding it LOL
Just the part the gores thru a slot and 'snaps' in to hold it there. It doesn't hold there, so that little gap I pictured opens up a few mm's. No one notices it but me! That's even worse LOL.

I'll get it off in a few weeks. Oil and filter change for the TD, etc.

I'll follow up with what I ended up doing and if it took the gap away.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Today I got the left side plastics off. I sure am much more confident putting on and off the plastics now. Especially since I put that complete set onto #1 before I sold it.

I had found some brand new in the package 5min. epoxy syringe. It's anywhere from 5-10 yrs old I think. It's pretty good product dispenser. No mixing. You put this long nozzle on the syringe and inside it is spiraled. So the 2 separate sides mix on their way out the nozzle. It actually worked!

I used some of my building clamps to hold it tight. After reinspection I clamped it and used the epoxy. Kinda cool in my garage so I used a hair dryer on it too a few minutes.
I'm leaving the clamps on it for hours! LOL Don't know how well I can trust the older Epoxy- it did dry clear though.

I took the picture just after I applied it, before it dried more clear. You can see the 3 tabs with the snot around them.





I used this opportunity to clean nooks and crannies with my kerosene dampened rag and flat and Philips screwdriver in the rag, and Q tips too.
I like a clean machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
AND, why did the engineers consider this a good place for the fuses?
I guess they figure you can pull the male piece out of the rubber grommet in the frame pictured right beside there and get you hand/s in there?
Maybe you can. I've never had to- yet.

 

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Looking good that came out pretty clean. Now I see what you meant about the flexing.
Im still a sucker for simple green but I think its just the smell :ROFLMAO:
 

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AND, why did the engineers consider this a good place for the fuses?
I guess they figure you can pull the male piece out of the rubber grommet in the frame pictured right beside there and get you hand/s in there?
Maybe you can. I've never had to- yet.

I replaced my rad hoses last night and was thinking the exact same thing whilst jamming my hand behind there moving the loom around. The fairings cover them anyway so what gives, idk ive seen worse i guess too
 
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I fear that the 5 minute epoxy is too rigid and will tend to break off. You may get some ideas here. Some reinforcing screen like Chuck mentions is also helpful, either metal or some fiberglass cloth.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It did open up a little I already noticed. Still an improvement.
The next time I have it off, I may take my little soldering iron to the tabs. Luckily, they are kind of in the back, and not close to the outer surface too.
 

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Don't go melting ABS plastics.... use something that's designed to bond with ABS.... like Plastex

I filled a quarter sized hole and repaired three 6" long cracks in my fairing. Sanded, painted, and even after 10 years it looked good enough to sell.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Then I'll do that. Thanks for the advice.
 

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On my intake duct covers, the tabs for attaching the side cowls broke (two on each side). There were many little pieces. I glued them together with JB Weld, it was like a puzzle. Then I saturated some fiberglass cloth with JB Weld and glued it to the back of the tabs. Seemed to be fine after that. I don't remember if it was necessary to spread the sheet metal nuts that slip onto the tabs. Not sure but the covers may be ABS.
 
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