[Edgarcs23]

hello,

I have been having an issue with my battery draining while trying to start it.
Recently bought a 2007 GSXR 1000. Started it a couple times and after didn’t want to turn over and was slowly draining the battery the more I held the start button.
Changed the battery and tried it again. It starts a couple times, but then does the same thing and starts draining down as I’m holding the start button.
I have replaced the stator and rectifier but the problem persists.
One thing I did notice was that when starting the bike, the starter sounded a bit weird when starting the bike. Like, it would start but the noise it makes when trying to start up was still going after the bike was already started. Not sure how to explain it
Anyway, this is getting on my nerves and expensive as well. Someone please help I just want to ride :’(
I am a returning rider that was finally able to get a bike and this happens

 

[Edgarcs23]

Replace battery.

I did as stated

 

[Edgarcs23]

Welcome to the forum.

You don't say how much you are riding the bike between starting it. If you just start it and let it idle a bit, it will never recharge and eventually it will kill the battery.

First thing is to charge the battery, start the bike and check the voltage at the battery while it is running at about 5k rpm. It should be a bit over 14 volts.

Let us know what you find.

As far as your comment that the starter sounds strange, put a test light or voltmeter on the power wire lug at the starter and confirm it is not getting power when you release the button. Relays sometime stick ON with cars but I've not heard of that happening with these bikes.

I will have to go and purchase a volt meter and check. I just let the bike idle a couple minutes to warm it up and then turned it off. Turned it back on and I could tell the battery was a little weaker that when fully charged. Ive been riding GSXRs for years now and I thought it sounded different the way the starter sounds. I will try to record me starting it so you can see what it sounds like.
the previous owner says he had LED lights on it but removed them. Not sure if he messed anything up with that

 

[Edgarcs23]

Sorry, I read 'charged the battery', my bad.

Do you know if it is a good one though? I have had duff 'new' batteries before.

What is the voltage across the battery before it starts, and after it starts?

Yes I replaced the battery twice. Took it back and they said hmm it’s a good battery. But they gave me a different one anyway.
I will go purchase a volt meter and check it today

 

[Edgarcs23]

'Started it a couple times and after didn’t want to turn over and was slowly draining the battery the more I held the start button.'

What did Einstein say about doing the same thing and expecting a different result? LOL

Keep posting on here, the great minds here will help you figure it out.
Good Luck and have a great day.

Thanks. Have a blessed day and thanks for your help

 

[Edgarcs23]

The charging system barely has enough capacity below 2-3000 rpm to maintain system voltage. A start takes a lot more out of the battery than the charging system will put back in 10-20 minutes of idling.

BTW,starting the bike without riding it just makes a lot of moisture in the engine and promotes rust. It really does not help. You are better off changing the oil at the end of the riding system, put in some fuel stabilizer and leaving the bike alone. A battery tender helps.

I picked it up from my friends house and took it to the gas station. Pumped gas and then tried to turn it on and it died. Trying to turn it on after riding it to the gas station seems to have drained the battery

 

[Edgarcs23]

Have you any alarm or aftermarket anti-thief system installed? They could dry battery if they been installed incorrectly or has any issues.

In first I would check the charging voltage as John told already. If it will be ok, I would check for charge leak. For this you should insert ampermetter (10a min) between positive terminal of the battery and its wires bracket. And now we could check for the leak current when key is off. It should be about zero value. Lets doing those tests and think about next steps.

No alarm or aftermarket electrical installed.
I will go get a volt meter and check the volts of battery while off and while running. I will see what reading I get

 

[Edgarcs23]

This sounds similar to what I had on my 1996 GSXR 750. The bike would start up easily when cold, but, once warm, it would not start. When warm, it would not start because the engine was turning over too slowly, if at all. It behaved like it had a dead battery, even though I knew the battery was good (I replaced it twice). At that point, I check the stator and rectifier and both tested fine, as per the service manual. I then ran this test: I started the bike (cold) and let it warm up to operating temperature (about 210 F) . I then stopped the bike and attempted to restart it as it gradually cooled down. When hot, the battery only turned over the engine slowly, too slow for the bike to start (as stated above). I waited about 10 minutes and attempted a start again. This time (with the temperature at say 170-180 F), the engine turned over faster, but still too slow to start. I repeated this until the bike was cold and the cranking speed constantly increased as the bike cooled. Eventually, it fired up fine. So clearly, there was an issue with slow cranking when the engine was hot. I then took the starter apart and it was a mess inside. Broken magnets, commutator very dirty, etc. I cleaned it up the best I could, reinstalled and it was better but still not great. I replaced the starter and the problem went away. With a new starter, the bike cranked over fast whether cold or hot, and started every time.

Sorry for the long-winded story. Hopefully that helps.

So might just be the starter? I was thinking about replacing that next. Have replaced the rectifier, battery and stator but it’s still the same. How can you test the starter? Thanks in advance

 

[Edgarcs23]

I fully agree. Also I would take off battery, fully charged it and store in any suitable well vented dry warm place (positive temperature at least), basement or warm store will be perfect.

It is garage kept at the moment. Fully charged it, the bike killed it and recharged it again.

 

[Edgarcs23]

It could be a issue of the starter clutch - it stays ON some time (or persist) after you releases the starter button. To check this I would take off starter gear cover and try to rotate gears in reverse direction, it should be rotate a little bit easy.

Thank you will give that a shot as well. I will record it starting the bike today and post a video so you guys can hear it

 

[Edgarcs23]

I told about long term keeping such as winter sitting

Yea she is sitting pretty in the garage. Pretty and dead

 

[Edgarcs23]

Welcome to the forum.

You don't say how much you are riding the bike between starting it. If you just start it and let it idle a bit, it will never recharge and eventually it will kill the battery.

First thing is to charge the battery, start the bike and check the voltage at the battery while it is running at about 5k rpm. It should be a bit over 14 volts.

Let us know what you find.

As far as your comment that the starter sounds strange, put a test light or voltmeter on the power wire lug at the starter and confirm it is not getting power when you release the button. Relays sometime stick ON with cars but I've not heard of that happening with these bikes.

Have an update:

idle after fully charging battery and key out, battery is at 12.8v
With the key turned to on it’s at 12.2v
Turned on while running at 13.7v and moving up
Turned off after running it it’s at 12.6v

friend Helped me open starter. It turns okay

 

[Edgarcs23]

Just check battery voltage when running, with and without starter wires connected.

I mean, if you measure over 14V when running before disconnecting it, then there is no reason to disconnect it, it's the battery!

Ah, that amazing instrument called 'a voltmeter'. I'm surprised how many people try to fix electrical problems without one. I tried to persuade someone to get one a while ago for a car fault, and they insisted on getting a bluetooth OBD dongle so their phone could tell them the battery voltage.

Is it a 'Gen Z' thing? Grandpa's tech is old hat, let's throw away the multimeters?

Have an update:

idle after fully charging battery and key out, battery is at 12.8v
With the key turned to on it’s at 12.2v
Turned on while running at 13.7v and moving up
Turned off after running it it’s at 12.6v

friend Helped me open starter. It turns okay

 

[Edgarcs23]

Sorry, I read 'charged the battery', my bad.

Do you know if it is a good one though? I have had duff 'new' batteries before.

What is the voltage across the battery before it starts, and after it starts?

Have an update:

idle after fully charging battery and key out, battery is at 12.8v
With the key turned to on it’s at 12.2v
Turned on while running at 13.7v and moving up
Turned off after running it it’s at 12.6v

friend Helped me open starter. It turns okay

 

[Edgarcs23]

Just check battery voltage when running, with and without starter wires connected.

I mean, if you measure over 14V when running before disconnecting it, then there is no reason to disconnect it, it's the battery!

Ah, that amazing instrument called 'a voltmeter'. I'm surprised how many people try to fix electrical problems without one. I tried to persuade someone to get one a while ago for a car fault, and they insisted on getting a bluetooth OBD dongle so their phone could tell them the battery voltage.

Is it a 'Gen Z' thing? Grandpa's tech is old hat, let's throw away the multimeters?

Have an update:

idle after fully charging battery and key out, battery is at 12.8v
With the key turned to on it’s at 12.2v
Turned on while running at 13.7v and moving up
Turned off after running it it’s at 12.6v

friend Helped me open starter. It turns okay

 

[Edgarcs23]

Have you any alarm or aftermarket anti-thief system installed? They could dry battery if they been installed incorrectly or has any issues.

In first I would check the charging voltage as John told already. If it will be ok, I would check for charge leak. For this you should insert ampermetter (10a min) between positive terminal of the battery and its wires bracket. And now we could check for the leak current when key is off. It should be about zero value. Lets doing those tests and think about next steps.

Have an update:

idle after fully charging battery and key out, battery is at 12.8v
With the key turned to on it’s at 12.2v
Turned on while running at 13.7v and moving up
Turned off after running it it’s at 12.6v

friend Helped me open starter. It turns okay

 

[Edgarcs23]

This one with battery fully charged. Notice the sounds it makes after starting

IMG_0322.mov

drive.google.com

This is after turning off and turning on after getting to my friends house

IMG_0324.MOV

drive.google.com

 

[Edgarcs23]

What was the voltage of the battery once you got to your friend's house?

The simplest explanation is that it is simply not charging properly and you did not have enough voltage to restart. Need to rule that out first before diving into the starter motor.

Can you find something to display voltage while you're riding? That might show what and when the voltage drops, if it does.

Don’t have anything to check while I’m riding.

 

[Edgarcs23]

Listening to that, I would say you have a bad battery.

Put a voltmeter on the battery while you crank it. It should stay above 10.5 volts. My guess is you will see much less.

The battery was replaced twice. Fully charged and tried it again.
did you hear that sound im talking about?

 

[Edgarcs23]

I also think "Turned on while running at 13.7v and moving up " might suggest the regulator has a bad earth, I'd expect the voltage to jump up immediately to over 14V, but then I am not familiar with this particular regulator MO, so maybe, maybe not.

Rectifier is hard wired in. I bought a new adapter that will make it click right in but is coming in the mail next week I think. So I can try and rule that out as well