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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started my prep for the TD's. unpluged rear brake- I use it rarely
unpluged front brake switch
took out headlight fuses.
Put key in to check on things- nothing!
I'm trying not to freak out.
I last rode it to Blackhawk farms and back last Sunday. Started and ran fine.
Key was not in bike for 5 days.

Like I said- tried it - nothing.
Voltmeter says 0.0 on battery?

Help!

I have a charger on it now.
I think I can get a new battery today- but really? 0.0? What happened? I didn't change/do anything since Sunday.
 

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SuperMod of the North
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Put the fuses back In and try it. I am guessing you pull one too many.
 

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SuperMod of the North
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Start back tracking what you just did to it checking at every step.
Including the real obvious stuff…..I ripped a battery out and had a hissy fit for an hour once before I figured out it was in gear with the stand down. Also why I have a new battery….
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for coming to the rescue. I got my voltmeter working, it had 13V, then 11. somrthing volts.
I put everything back. Got power and started! It's idling now.

crisis aborted for now. I'll carry on again and try and pull out the headlight hi and lo fuses again and see what happens.
I guess I'm reading the diagram wrong and pulling the ignition fuse instead?

Anyways- all system go again to pack up so I can head over to BHF's this afternoon.

Thanks again for the replies.

Todd
 
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SuperMod of the North
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Just unplug the headlights from the harness and leave the fuses in?
 

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Zero volts at the battery is a terminal condition. Get a new battery.

You might be able to get it charged up but be sure to do a load check on it, you don't want to be messing with it at the track.

The easiest load check is to make sure the battery (fully charged) gives at least 10.5 volts when cranking the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks again. I have it on the slow charging setting now.
It was never the battery anyways LOL

I pulled the correct fuses while it was running this time- no problems.
Front and Rr Brake light switch disconnected again too.!
I can't pull the 'signal' one- cause that also shuts down my dash/tach.

Got the bed of the truck hosed out- just a few leaves.
Wiped tghe bike down again.
Gotta tape up.

All system go!
 
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"Put key in to check on things- nothing!"

It's hard to get 0.0 V. Either it had been sitting for over a week or you weren't measuring correctly. As John said, the battery would be toast. I'm wondering if you left the ignition on overnight and didn't notice because no lights were on.
 

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Saw Todd's post after the problem was resolved but it did get me to put a meter on mine just because. 12.76v 1st check. Put it on the tender & that charged it at 14.6v, then it slowly settled down to 13.1v. Cold start cranking voltage went as low as 10.9v right before starting then went to 14.67v with the engine running.

Second round saw battery sitting @ 13.1v then went as low as 12.4v while cranking the engine, then immediately to 14.4v after engine start.

I've had the same battery since the (2018) bike was bought new in Feb 2019, mileage is a little over 9000. Still works great but thinking of replacing it before it goes bad. Maybe by the Spring refresh.
 

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@HydeWhyte those numbers are good, carry on. I've had batteries go 7+ years.
 

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Zero volts at the battery is a terminal condition. Get a new battery.

You might be able to get it charged up but be sure to do a load check on it, you don't want to be messing with it at the track.

The easiest load check is to make sure the battery (fully charged) gives at least 10.5 volts when cranking the engine.
You have a K5/K6 1000? Me 2. :cool: All else fades in their immense illumination, 3rd gear power wheelies, only my balls, brains, and wrists assist me. 67 years young,
 
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