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its not the stva he would have a code and it would put the bike in limp mode stopping it from revving past like 8-9k even in neutral.

to check your coils you can pull one out, leave it connected to the plug, shove a screwdriver in it, lay it across your frame and start the bike. if it arcs from the screwdriver to the frame your coils are good... but i dun think thats the problem. also if you try this method, dont touch the frame while you do it
 

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:laughingr:000113674
its not the stva he would have a code and it would put the bike in limp mode stopping it from revving past like 8-9k even in neutral.

to check your coils you can pull one out, leave it connected to the plug, shove a screwdriver in it, lay it across your frame and start the bike. if it arcs from the screwdriver to the frame your coils are good... but i dun think thats the problem. also if you try this method, dont touch the frame while you do it

:D thanks I wouldn't do that lol... So take each one out and do that stick a screwdriver in the coil it's self being gentle right.. What a mission getting the airbox back on again!:hitit:
 

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:laughingr:000113674


:D thanks I wouldn't do that lol... So take each one out and do that stick a screwdriver in the coil it's self being gentle right.. What a mission getting the airbox back on again!:hitit:

When I took the tank off I heard something loose and when I took the fuel filter out I shook the tank and about 10+ screws fell out, why would these of been there? Could it of caused my problem?:0001136745-facepalm
 

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By your OP you have paid to have someone clean the carbs and tune the bike, they did geeet it going but it will not go any where near properly and their response when you queried them was to tell you that you may need to run a few tanks of fuel through.

If it were me I would be looking at the manual and checking the routing of all hoses etc, checking fuel flow and if there is no fix then I would pull the carbs to check them.

If a shop gives a bike back that is not running properly and their only response is to run a few tanks of fuel then i would not trust anything they have done.

To me is seems to be starving for fuel.
 

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Thanks for your response

By your OP you have paid to have someone clean the carbs and tune the bike, they did geeet it going but it will not go any where near properly and their response when you queried them was to tell you that you may need to run a few tanks of fuel through.

If it were me I would be looking at the manual and checking the routing of all hoses etc, checking fuel flow and if there is no fix then I would pull the carbs to check them.

If a shop gives a bike back that is not running properly and their only response is to run a few tanks of fuel then i would not trust anything they have done.

To me is seems to be starving for fuel.
Hi. So far I've had new sparks, they said they cleaned to carbs. (How long would this take?) just want to know as I paid for 2 hours labour. I added motul fuel additive about a week before I drained the fuel, checked fuel filter, took these bolts out, the airbox wasn't on properly as it was missing the bolt from the front if the bike that left gaps I between air intake and airbox, cleaned the air filter, I've put a carbon scorpion race can on it but the problem was there before i put it on, new battery and trickle charger been added

What I have one...

-got plenty of fuel
-cleaned fuel filter
-cleaned air filter
-checked pipes and hoses, no kinks no blocks
-carbs been cleaned
- new sparks
 

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2 hrs would be very fast to remove and clean carbs.

Test your charge system.

What exhaust did you replace with the scorpion.

You need to be sure all the hoses are correct.

Your problem is compounding, it has gone for running well, then fail to start, now starts but wont run well.

It has been worked on by you, then a shop and you have changed the exhaust. Depending on what exhaust you replaced this can make a big difference on a carbed bike.

you may snag an easy fix, or may need to be patient to work through this.

So charge system test and manual and confirm all hoses area correct.
 

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2 hrs would be very fast to remove and clean carbs.

Test your charge system.

What exhaust did you replace with the scorpion.

You need to be sure all the hoses are correct.

Your problem is compounding, it has gone for running well, then fail to start, now starts but wont run well.

It has been worked on by you, then a shop and you have changed the exhaust. Depending on what exhaust you replaced this can make a big difference on a carbed bike.

you may snag an easy fix, or may need to be patient to work through this.

So charge system test and manual and confirm all hoses area correct.

Ok so I put a slip on can on which replace the standard gsxr can (3 bolt fitment) the problem was there before I done the can change. Do u think they just sprayed the carbs? I do judging by the time it took me to take the airbox off and put back on again as the rubber ring the carbs sit in were very tight. Think I will take it to another garage. I'd rather try and do it my self. I haven't checked the coils yet but I would of thought they'd of done this when they looked at the sparks, also ain't done a carb tune? Going to bypass the side stand switch as other have had the same problem as mine and it turned out to be a faulty side stand switch.
 

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Bogging down problem solved

Does anyone know the problem im having with my 06 gsxr 600. I just got the bike with 350 miles on it and changed all the fluids, changed spark plugs, and air filter and removed the exhaust servo when i put on my slip on m4 pipe. The bike when you first start it runs fine i can rev the bike and it will go to 16000 rpms like it is suppost to, but when im ridin the bike and i go to "hit it" i bog down power at about 12000 rpms the bike will never go over 125 it seems its not gettin gas or something, the bike has 2200 miles on it now and its been doing this problem since i got the bike. I heard it is the exhaust O2 sensor but im not sure and if anyone has any helpful tips i would appreciate it this is driving me nuts. Still since i bought the bike have not been able to see what its full potential is.

Hi I recently purchased a suzuki gsxr 600 with that same problem. Changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, air filter, tried everything. So I decided to take the whole bike apart. The first thing I did was to pull out the aftermarket exhaust slip on and there I saw my exhaust servo butterfly shut. So I started the bike and i noticed the servo opened up fully. I decided to rev the bike to the higher rpm's. I noticed that accelerating past 6000 rpm the butterfly would close. So I tied it open with wire and went for a ride. The bike had been riding with full power from them on. Off course this triggered a f1 light. I googled it and did a bypass by cutting a wire from behind the ECM....No more bogging down or loss of power....
 

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Also in my case, after a fuel line check, the issue was in the valve at the exhaust exva that was probably closing at 6000 rpm , also if no f1 error was shown at the initial checkup
 

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Also in my case, after a fuel line check, the issue was in the valve at the exhaust exva that was probably closing at 6000 rpm , also if no f1 error was shown at the initial checkup


To be precise, was not the valve itself, was the fact that the two wires of the actuator were inverted


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
 

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Hey bro it might be your kickstand sensor. I had the same problem on my 06 600. It would rev up fine but when i would reach higher rpms it would bog out. I concluded that it was the sensor and i went the cheap easy route and just cut and spliced the wires. Havent had a problem with it since
what wire do i cut.
 

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what wire do i cut.
Welcome.
You might want to start your own thread and ask your question. The last response was over a year ago and who knows where the thread wandered.
 

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Cutting and splicing the leads hacks up the harness and allows the bike to be ridden with the stand down, generally not a good idea. If the kickstand is the problem, a spring might be missing or the pivot has worn to where it needs to be replaced. At best with the leads, make a jumper that plugs into the connector. Then you can unplug it when you've come to your senses.
 
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