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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was riding my bike yesterday (07 GSXR 750), and closed the throttle due to some traffic. When I opened the throttle again, the bike did not respond and I noticed that the gauges were dead. I pulled the bike over, and noticed that the RPM gauge was stuck at 2000 rpm, even when I switched the key to off. The bike had zero power when the key was switched back on.

My buddies and I checked the fuses and saw that the 30 amp fuse in the starter relay was blown. When we replaced the fuse, however, the new fuse blew again. We brought the bike to my mechanic to check for any ground.

My mechanic opened the bike and disconnected various connections, but the fuse keeps blowing. According to him, he checked all connections but the problems persists. His conclusion is that the problem is with the starter relay and recommended getting a new one. I am not a technical person, so I cannot validate if all connections were indeed properly checked for any ground.

The only modification I did to my bike recently was to install a JSD Pro TRE. But the bike worked well after that, and I probably had run 1,500 kilometers since that installation before this problem happened.

I live in the Philippines, and we do not have a Suzuki dealer to go to here. I would really appreciate any advice from the technical experts in this forum or from anyone who had experienced this problem before. Thank you.
 

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Ouch. Doctor says that 2k reading on the tach when turned off doesn't look to good. I'd yank the tre stuff and go from there. With the tach reading 2k I know you are thinking you fried your ecm or something close. I hope not. I figure the tre and crank sensor down by the covers probably on your bike have some connections in common. I'd think the tre juiced up unacceptably some other parts in your bike. Just yank that thing out of there could be the best part of saving your bike. Somethings definately wrong and like being a pilot you better un do what ever the last thing was you did or the results are a major crash unless its already happened and you are looking at it with the bike not running. Sorry to hear about your mess man.

Bright side is maybe its just the crank sensor... we hope. Check how it's doing with its connections.
 

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With your tach reading 2k I'm thinking either a resistor is leaking power when the motor is off or the clocks got messed or just failed. I'm hoping the tre wasn't hooked up wrong and shot juice to the wrong places. Might be the clocks got fried. Not looking at the schematic or anything but when you do look for the paths of power the tre could of created to the tach. After disconnecting the tre device and going back to non tre attachment configuration see what happens. If its still messed up work from their trouble shooting but don't put the tre thing back in. Check and double check connections of everything and the conditions of the wires. Look for ried wires or discolored from heat. That new of a bike though I'd think its either a factory defect or the new addition that goofed things up.
 

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id make sure none of your wires are burnt or broken anywhere on the bike where it gets really hot. check your harness and all other connections. good luck. if the problem never gets fixed try getting a new wire harness
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi, I referred to the Suzuki Service Manual and couldn't find the diagram for the "crank sensor." Does it have some other name, from among the following items listed below?:

1 Fuel pump relay (5-7)
2 IAT sensor (4-53)
3 Cooling fan relay (7-7)
4 PAIR control solenoid valve (11-7)
5 CMP sensor (4-33)
6 Ignition coil (No.1, 2, 3, 4)
7 Horn
8 Fuel level gauge
9 Fuel pump (5-8)
0 Regulator/Rectifier
A Oil pressure switch
B Generator
C Speed sensor
D GP switch
E Side-stand switch
F TO sensor (4-63)1 Battery
2 AP sensor (4-57)
3 Mode selection switch coupler (4-18)
4 Fuse Box
5 ECM (Engine Control Module)
6 Secondary fuel injector (4-80)
7 Primary fuel injector (4-77)
8 ECT sensor (4-49)
9 STV actuator (4-67)
0 STP sensor (4-70)
A TP sensor (4-44)
B IAP sensor (4-38)
C Starter relay/Main fuse
D Turn signal/Side-stand relay
E EXCVA (6-4)
F CKP sensor (4-35)
G HO2 sensor (E-02, 19) (4-87)
H Cooling fan (7-6)
 

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CKP Sensor : Crankshaft Position Sensor
(CKPS)

CMP Sensor : Camshaft Position Sensor
(CMPS)

Looking at the K6 model manual which I figure is the same as K7 the two above are findable with the search function. There is a lot of stuff on checking them like ohms and voltage they should read when cranking. Real sorry to hear about your problem. I'm just worried something has fried since it sits there reading 2k with the switch in the off position i think you said.

Dealer mode C11 & C12 are malfunctions of the two above in the same sequince.

I hope you have a pdf manual for searching up the stuff. There is plenty of stuff for testing. Doesn't say faults with the two sensors will crash your bikes electronics. Hopefully you just have a connector that pulled apart. You are going to learn your bike messing with this problem.
 
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