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Hi, when it happened I had a -C00 and the line was at the top of the C. But now when I do it it doesn’t show up.
Try it again but if line is at top then you have a TPS issue. Should be in the middle and at bottom with wot or even the slightest hair trigger throttle. You could be seeing signs of a failing TPS
 

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Hi, would you happen to know the voltage of the battery when it’s at idle and when it’s at a higher rpm? I have not been able to find one online.
Normal tickover (1200/1300rpm) you should see around 13.6v-13.8v.
Cold start tickover (2000rpm) should be around 14.0v
5000rpm should give you between 14.4v and 14.8v

Anything under 13.2v or over 14.8v indicates a problem.
 

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Maybe you just need to ride the bike a bit more.

Italian tune-ups. Rarely work, but always fun trying! ;)

(EDIT, ref next post and at the risk of dumbing down too far on the internet - if you have a continuous and obvious mechanical issue, then fix that first. Example, This doesn't seem to be a case of that.)
 

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Maybe you just need to ride the bike a bit more.

Italian tune-ups. Rarely work, but always fun trying! ;)
Then why would you egg him on then if that’s the case. Ohh your engines misfiring. Just WOT it might clear up. (Yet pea brain has no idea what happens to a cylinder while misfiring at 10,000 rpm’s. 🤣🤣 comical at best.
 

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Then why would you egg him on then if that’s the case. Ohh your engines misfiring. Just WOT it might clear up. (Yet pea brain has no idea what happens to a cylinder while misfiring at 10,000 rpm’s. 🤣🤣 comical at best.
yeah, OK, 'with caveats'.

I mean, if a bike is running but 'occasionally' does something inexplicable but quite benign, just like this, might just be underused. Dirty fuel, injectors, sparks, flat battery.

No suggestion here of any permanent defect going on. If any defect at all. So, a bit more riding I think is in order.

A draggy clutch would not help, putting some urban street miles on the bike would deal with that too.

I think this is a case for giving it some good running, sounds like it to me, no? Due caveats apply, obviously it won't fix continuous and serious mechanical faults, so don't try if that is what you suspect.
 

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@JSabaj It sounds like you found your issue, just a low battery. That makes sense as the charging system does not put out much energy at idle so it depends on a charged battery to help maintain system voltage at idle. With the load needed to charge a low battery, the system voltage could drop enough at low rpm to make the ECM unhappy.

A very close scenario I've seen talked about a few times is a low or weak battery during warmer weather. The bike comes to a stop, the cooling fan kicks on and the bike quits. Same issue, the fan power draw is more than the charging system can handle and the battery is not in the condition to pick up the slack.
 

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I think the starter will crank at 11V while the ECU might be wanting to see 12V. There may also be a slight earth bonding issue, perhaps, which drops a volt or two across the ECU, only noticed with a dip in battery voltage.

Earthing issues seem to often go unseen and undetected. I think much money is wasted on replacing parts in many machines, let alone vehicles, for failure to detect bonding issues. Measure voltages across components whilst they are drawing current before assuming they are faulty, they might simply not be getting enough juice.
 

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I think the starter will crank at 11V while the ECU might be wanting to see 12V. There may also be a slight earth bonding issue, perhaps, which drops a volt or two across the ECU, only noticed with a dip in battery voltage.
I mean after the engine died the bike should not start until the battery has been charged (cose not enough voltage to ECM / injs). If OP started the bike again after it died, then it is not the low battery issue, I think.
The intermittent lost of the grounding is more realistic version I think.
 

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I mean after the engine died the bike should not start until the battery has been charged (cose not enough voltage to ECM / injs). If OP started the bike again after it died, then it is not the low battery issue, I think.
The intermittent lost of the grounding is more realistic version I think.
Oh, you mean that if the battery was too low that it stalled then it'd still be too low if you tried to start it, if not lower as the starter pulls the voltage down. Yeah, I guess, that too.
 

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Not necessarily. If the bike stalls, the draw on the battery is massively reduced and it will normally recover enough to spin the starter and get the engine going again. After all, it will have received some charge while running. Obviously, the more this happens, the less likely that the battery will have enough juice to restart the engine.
 

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Not necessarily. If the bike stalls, the draw on the battery is massively reduced and it will normally recover enough to spin the starter and get the engine going again. After all, it will have received some charge while running. Obviously, the more this happens, the less likely that the battery will have enough juice to restart the engine.
Lets look to that situation. When a bike running, voltage consuming by the injecting system and the lights.
When you try to start the engine after it was been off, voltage will bee consuming same as in prev case and by starter additionally. If bike died becouse low voltage, when you cranking the engine the voltage will be quite lower than just it running. Anotger words voltage could be enaugh for turning out the crank, but not enogh for the ecm, injs and other injecting components to work fine and for start the engine. Its sumburic a bit, Iam sorry :)
 

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What are you talking about? Didn't get the idea, sorry. If you mean that they generate additional voltage, then I say that they work after the engine has stalled, just as they did before it stalled.
Your last comment seemed to miss the fact that the electrical system should be charging whilst riding, hence you should be able to try several restarts before the battery is no longer able to cope.
Lets give the OP his thread back please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Alright, sorry again for the late reply. I checked dealer mode again and the code was -C00. Not sure if it needs to be on the other side of the 00 or not. I checked voltage and the bike constantly ran at ~12.4v. Running idle ~1300 rpm it would stay constant at ~12.4v. When given throttle to 5000rpm, the battery would raise to ~12.7-12.8. Would it be a charging issue or battery issue? Thanks!
 
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