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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Need to remove the nut that is on the bottom. Then they will come out from the top. Grab the stud from the top, tight with some vice grips (good ones), and get the nut to break free on the bottom.
Trust me i tried that. It is like that shit is welded on there. i can not turn it. i think my only bet is to cut it off.
 

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Alpha Canuck
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What Spyder said. Cutting it is gonna be the last resort. If you do you would cut it below and pull it up and out the way it went in.
 

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Yes, you would want to cut it on the NUT side, or bottom. If you cut a slit all the way through the stud, and nut. The nut will just split off, and you can pull the stud out from the top.
 

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Even if you cut the bolt from below you'd have to remove the fairings to get the top half off right? There must be something sandwiched between the stay and the fairings to keep the stud from coming out.

I'd take the fairings off first to see what the previous owner did exactly.

Then I'd take a angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and attack that nut rather than the bolt I think...
 

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Professional Rick Roller
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The nut is probably just froze up on the stud.
Some of this should help. I would stick with the vice grips approach before cutting.
Tire Drink Liquid Automotive wheel system Automotive tire
 

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Alpha Canuck
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Even if you cut the bolt from below you'd have to remove the fairings to get the top half off right? There must be something sandwiched between the stay and the fairings to keep the stud from coming out.

I'd take the fairings off first to see what the previous owner did exactly.

Then I'd take a angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and attack that nut rather than the bolt I think...
It is weird JCW. The studs would have had to have gone in from the top as they were in the mirrors. I was wondering if there was a collar pressed into the stud that was originally meant to jam against the mirror and fix the stud from turning. I am suspecting that flange or collar just fits through the holes and may be catching under the faring. You may be right that the farings now have to get pulled or lifted out of the way to jiggle it into the right spot.
 
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One picture of the nut looks like it has an indentation like an old style lock nut.
Do they?
 

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It is weird JCW. The studs would have had to have gone in from the top as they were in the mirrors. I was wondering if there was a collar pressed into the stud that was originally meant to jam against the mirror and fix the stud from turning. I am suspecting that flange or collar just fits through the holes and may be catching under the faring. You may be right that the farings now have to get pulled or lifted out of the way to jiggle it into the right spot.
This is more likely!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·

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Here are some better photos, maybe they can show what you asked.
No I don't think they are.
If you hold the end of the bolt with vise grips you should be able to turn the nut enough to get a hacksaw blade or dremel tool in to cut the bolt.
 

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Alpha Canuck
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The nut has to come off one way or another then it will lift out the top from the mirror side.
 
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I don't understand what pics 938 and 842 are of. Have you removed the mirror housing, it's stalk, and the electrical leads? Is what remains the base and the studs that thread into it? It looks different than the base in the partzilla drawing or your google screenshot. Were those aftermarket mirrors?

P.S. Your pics are consistently too close and out of focus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I don't understand what pics 938 and 842 are of. Have you removed the mirror housing, it's stalk, and the electrical leads? Is what remains the base and the studs that thread into it? It looks different than the base in the partzilla drawing or your google screenshot. Were those aftermarket mirrors?

P.S. Your pics are consistently too close and out of focus.
They were stock mirrors, i took the mirrors off and the electric cable was attached but the bolt and screw stayed on the bike, except one bolt/screw on the left of the bike stayed attached to the mirror as i managed to get the bolt loose and unscrew it as it should have. but all others are stuck.
 

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So you turned the nut on the underside of the fairing and 3 or the 4 mirror bolts unscrewed from the mirror?

I’m guessing the fourth bolt that was attached to the mirror after you removed the nut came off the fairing ok?

If It was my bike, I’d put 2 nuts on the thread above the fairing and lock them together. Then hold the lower one with a wrench. Use a socket on the lower nut and turn it off. The bolt should then come out ok from the top.

If there is not enough room to put 2 nuts on the upper part of the bolt, you can carefully grind 2 sides to make them flat and use an adjustable wrench/nut fu*ker to hold the bolt. That’s what I had to do with my sons WR250.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
So you turned the nut on the underside of the fairing and 3 or the 4 mirror bolts unscrewed from the mirror?

I’m guessing the fourth bolt that was attached to the mirror after you removed the nut came off the fairing ok?

If It was my bike, I’d put 2 nuts on the thread above the fairing and lock them together. Then hold the lower one with a wrench. Use a socket on the lower nut and turn it off. The bolt should then come out ok from the top.

If there is not enough room to put 2 nuts on the upper part of the bolt, you can carefully grind 2 sides to make them flat and use an adjustable wrench/nut fu*ker to hold the bolt. That’s what I had to do with my sons WR250.
i tried that all that happened was the nut i attached to the top just got drove into the plastic as the bolt on the bottom is just that tight/stuck.
 

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This is easier shown than explained... but here it goes.

Get 2 nuts that will thread onto the top portion of the stud. Tighten those two as hard as you can against each other not down to the base of the stud. Then hold the nut that is on the bottom of the top portion of the stud with a wrench and use your ratchet to break that bottom nut loose.

Soaking the bottom nut in a little bit of PB Blaster 30 mins before you go at it can make a big difference.
 
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