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i brought 2 ignition switches and still the samething. brought a oem still the samething. idk what to do from the point on out. the fuel pump won't prime, but i test the fuel pump it works great. when i turn the key when testing it from the fuel pump relay on the yellow and red wire, the test light lose power.
 

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i brought 2 ignition switches and still the samething. brought a oem still the samething. idk what to do from the point on out. the fuel pump won't prime, but i test the fuel pump it works great. when i turn the key when testing it from the fuel pump relay on the yellow and red wire, the test light lose power.
Welcome.

So your are getting a C42 code with the new OEM ignition switch? There is a resistor built in to the OEM switches that the ECM needs to see. That is why many of the aftermarket switches, and hot wiring it, does not work.

The ECM will not turn on the fuel pump if it sees this fault. If you do have the correct switch the next would be to check the connections between the switch and the ECM.
 

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ok cool, going too check now
Welcome.

So your are getting a C42 code with the new OEM ignition switch? There is a resistor built in to the OEM switches that the ECM needs to see. That is why many of the aftermarket switches, and hot wiring it, does not work.

The ECM will not turn on the fuel pump if it sees this fault. If you do have the correct switch the next would be to check the connections between the switch and the ECM.
 

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I believe it is the Orange/yellow striped wire between the ignition switch and the ECM that has the resistor on it. It goes directly between the two but there is the ignition switch plug also that you could check for good condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
what wire i look for on the ignition switch?
I believe it is the Orange/yellow striped wire between the ignition switch and the ECM that has the resistor on it. It goes directly between the two but there is the ignition switch plug also that you could check for good condition.
 

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It sounds like you only have a test light. It would be helpful if you could measure the voltage on the O/Y. It's voltage should be somewhere around 2/3 of the battery voltage when the ignition is turned on. But only when connected to the ECM. It should be battery voltage if not connected.

You don't say NEW when talking about the OEM switch that you bought. A used switch might have a faulty resistor, which can be replaced.
 

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It sounds like you only have a test light. It would be helpful if you could measure the voltage on the O/Y. It's voltage should be somewhere around 2/3 of the battery voltage when the ignition is turned on. But only when connected to the ECM. It should be battery voltage if not connected.
Good information. I never knew what the voltage drop over the resistor should be with a load on it.
 
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