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No, this is not a "what lube is best" question.
I'm ready to do my first chain clean/lube on my Gixxer. When applying the new lube do you only apply it to the rollers and let it work itself around, or do you also spray the side plates?
Might seem like a lame question, but I really don't know.
 

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Coat the whole chain to prevent rust.
 

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Buy a grease Nina. It's basically just a block of plastic that connects to your can of chain lube and directs the lube right onto the rings of the chain. Saves a lot of wasted lube.

But first, clean it good with kerosene in a spray bottle; I just put cardboard between the chain and the rear tire and hose it down, then wipe it clean with a rag.
 

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Buy a grease Nina. It's basically just a block of plastic that connects to your can of chain lube and directs the lube right onto the rings of the chain. Saves a lot of wasted lube.

But first, clean it good with kerosene in a spray bottle; I just put cardboard between the chain and the rear tire and hose it down, then wipe it clean with a rag.
\

I use Kerosene, and a brush, every blue moon.
+1 on the cardboard behind the chain- I've got that special piece in my garage
The Chain Wax I use also sort of cleans it some, and keeps it cleaner b/c not much sticks to it

We all know we are really just lubeing the sprocket/chain roller interface, and as said, some rust protection.
The real lube is built inside in those Orings inside the inner links around the pins. We can't get in there, etc.
But yes, I use the chain wax I think WB suggested years ago- I get in from online Wlamart.
 

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As much as they say the grease in the o rings is permanent, I refuse to believe it's leakproof. Your chain pull over 500 lbs of bike & you're telling me that O-ring can prevent grease from squishing out?

Do what you will but Ive gotten 60 k on an oem chain & I'll do what works for me.
 

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Also, you have to think creatively. If you're using an aerosol like PJ1, the lube is held in suspension in the can by a solvent. The solvent can actually break down the lube already on your chain, so use it liberally and soak the hell out of your chain. The solvent then becomes a cleaner and will wash out the dirt and grime that wears the o-rings down. Then just wipe off the excess. Your towel will be filthy. That filth is what was on your chain, but now is not.

Also be aware of what you're using. If you start with an oil based lube, stick with oils. If you're using wax based, stick with wax based. They don't mix.
 

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I agree with chuckster kerosene and a grunge brush to clean it, and chain wax works well. They sell it in Walmart seasonally you can find it in store. I have not checked but I’d be willing to bet if it is not currently any day now it will be on clearance. It mite be a good time to stock up. ?
 

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Kerosene is an oil, not a wax. They don't mix. The reason the manual says use kerosene to clean is because it says use motor oil to lube. Your lube and cleaner need to be in the same ballpark.
 

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I've tried so many crap, right now I'm on good old transmission oil. Cheap efficient & readily available.
The Suzuki owners manual for my K6 gsxr recommends 90w gear oil. That is what I've been using for years. I keep a small jar with a few ounces in it and apply it with a cheap paint brush. Wipe it down with a rag and I'm done. Maybe not the prettiest, and it does sling off if I go too heavy, but I've gotten 25k+ miles out of o-ring chains.
 

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The Suzuki owners manual for my K6 gsxr recommends 90w gear oil. That is what I've been using for years. I keep a small jar with a few ounces in it and apply it with a cheap paint brush. Wipe it down with a rag and I'm done. Maybe not the prettiest, and it does sling off if I go too heavy, but I've gotten 25k+ miles out of o-ring chains.
That's what everybody used before there was fancy chain oil. I found the wax attract dirt & remain there. There's the graphite dry lube which I found insufficient.

I had some old transmission oil lying around after a transmission change. Tried it, fell in love with it. My way of recycling.
 

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Diesel is not quite the same for cleaning. Kerosene is much cleaner and thinner. I had a hard time finding Kero at my local gas stations , I found it in the hunting/camping section at wall mart. I put it in a spray bottle and use a grudge brush. I seen a few guys in this thread recommend transmission fluid as chain lube, I’d have too recommended not to use it. Transmissions fluid is corrosive especially brand new fluid and I would not trust it with my o-rings in my chain.
 

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Diesel is not quite the same for cleaning. Kerosene is much cleaner and thinner. I had a hard time finding Kero at my local gas stations , I found it in the hunting/camping section at wall mart. I put it in a spray bottle and use a grudge brush. I seen a few guys in this thread recommend transmission fluid as chain lube, I’d have too recommended not to use it. Transmissions fluid is corrosive especially brand new fluid and I would not trust it with my o-rings in my chain.
I'd like to know how transmission fluid is corrosive. I'm using manual transmission gear oil btw. Compatible with brass fittings.

I highly doubt my chain has higher requirements than my manual tranny .

This is like an oil thread, use whatever floats your boat.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Found some kerosene. Got a grunge brush and PJ1 chain lube. Gonna do this with more confidence as soon as my rear stand gets here.
Thanks for the help guys.
 
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