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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is on my 2005 GSXR 600.

So I’m having issues with acceleration and the clutch. At least I’ve narrowed it down to the clutch. Fuel pump was tested and flowing properly, injectors are good to go, tps is in correct position, all fuses are good, throttle bodies have been cleaned, throttle snaps back when letting go, replaced rotors and brake pads and disassembled and cleaned the pistons and calipers, bled the lines with fresh fluid, new battery and plugs.

I get to the clutch, sometimes the rpms will shoot up without accelerating while riding and even then it feels like I’m at 10-12 rpms even though I’m at 4-5k and feels like the bike is accelerating slowly, but then randomly will get freed up and accelerate quickly for a short period of time.

I tried adjusting the clutch cable properly, not just at the lever and still had changes. Bike will lunge forward when putting in first gear. On the stand, it will roll the rear tire under power in 1st gear if the lever is held down or not. Makes a thump sound going into 1st as well.

Then I took a look at my clutch plates and they were all bone dry except for the last 4 plates, which were partially wet.

I’m not sure if these plates look bad or not. Looking for guidance or input on anything I may be missing or needs checked that I may not know about that causes the issues I’m having. Thanks in advance!
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ill be honest man i just took my plates out recently and the had a little more friction and i was told they were okay i was told its almost like gauging brake pads just kind of look at how much friction there is? but thats weird maybe it being low on oil made some stick?? i dont know just throwing out ideas did you do a full oil swap and see if it helped? given the fact it seems you checked everything else
 

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The fibers "look" thin to me in the pictures but there is a minimum thickness spec in the service manual. The steels don't show any bluing or scoring but a thickness check is the key also.

A slipping clutch is your problem from what you describe, if you did the adjustment correctly per the service manual and it still slipped, replacing at least the fibers is the next step.

Suzuki sells a complete kit with steels and fibers for about $130 online. Considering the age of the bike and that you have it all apart, just put a new kit in.
 

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To me the plates look good, and all but the end plates are the same so if its a middle (#7 plates from the diagram below) just swap it around with one of the other middles. If the rear wheel wants to move when you put it in 1st/on the stand then it sounds like your clutch shaft/cables are not adjusted correctly (the first spot being at the clutch release adjuster #35)

Once that is adjusted then the cable entry on top of that housing, then at the lever.

Plate configuration
 

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Discussion Starter #6
As far as the clutch shaft adjustment, that’s my only concern that may not be right.

it should be adjusted until tension is felt, then back off half a turn right? Should the screw attempt to rotate once tension is applied if you remove the screwdriver or should it stay in place?
I ask because I can turn it as tight as I want and it will stay in place. However in a video I watched, the guy said he had to hold the screwdriver to keep the screw from turning while he tightened the nut down.

To me the plates look good, and all but the end plates are the same so if its a middle (#7 plates from the diagram below) just swap it around with one of the other middles. If the rear wheel wants to move when you put it in 1st/on the stand then it sounds like your clutch shaft/cables are not adjusted correctly (the first spot being at the clutch release adjuster #35)

Once that is adjusted then the cable entry on top of that housing, then at the lever.

Plate configuration
 

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As far as the clutch shaft adjustment, that’s my only concern that may not be right.

it should be adjusted until tension is felt, then back off half a turn right? Should the screw attempt to rotate once tension is applied if you remove the screwdriver or should it stay in place?
I ask because I can turn it as tight as I want and it will stay in place. However in a video I watched, the guy said he had to hold the screwdriver to keep the screw from turning while he tightened the nut down.
There is a lock nut on the screw (flat head). Screw it in until minor tension is felt then it was either back it off 1/4 or 1/2 (I don't have a manual in front of me). hold the screw position and tighten the lock nut. Assuming your cables have been loosened screw the cable into the top of the cover with something like 20-30mm of thread showing between the cable head and lock screw. Then adjust your clutch with a minimum of 1 quarter (money/coin) or width of two of them. not sure the thickness of a quarter but maybe 10mm? With it on the stand you want the clutch adjustment to just disengage the wheel from rolling while the clutch leave is released.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok thanks for the help. I’ll try again when I get home. I went ahead and ordered a clutch kit anyway. Not sure when it was changed last, but it’s not OEM. Looks like it may be EBC and the springs have some pink on them.


There is a lock nut on the screw (flat head). Screw it in until minor tension is felt then it was either back it off 1/4 or 1/2 (I don't have a manual in front of me). hold the screw position and tighten the lock nut. Assuming your cables have been loosened screw the cable into the top of the cover with something like 20-30mm of thread showing between the cable head and lock screw. Then adjust your clutch with a minimum of 1 quarter (money/coin) or width of two of them. not sure the thickness of a quarter but maybe 10mm? With it on the stand you want the clutch adjustment to just disengage the wheel from rolling while the clutch leave is released.
 

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All the clutch kits from Suzuki I have ever ordered had paint on them and were mostly orange or pink. My most high mileage clutch plates have 50k which includes track days and hard street miles and never failed me. I swapped them out at 50k for a new set and there was no change in performance so I basically wasted my $ but it never hurts to have a backup. The biggest thing is making sure the clutch plate/space orientation is exact as the micro fiche/service manual shows. Also how does your front and rear sprocket look? I have seen sprockets with missing teeth and insane wear (literally no teeth because the owner was a cheap idiot). This can also cause slipping. Where in FL are you?
 

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I don't know if the screw will move when you tighten the lock nut or not but it should be in the same position after tightening the lock nut. Just note the position of the slot before you tighten the lock nut and confirm the screw is in the same position afterwards. I have loosened the screw the same amount it moved so the next time I tightened the lock nut it ended up in the correct position.

Swapping clutch plate positions does not change the stack height so will not change anything.

Whether the rear tire rotates with the clutch disengaged is not a good indication whether the clutch is adjusted correctly or not.

BTW, the Suzuki kit comes with new springs also. Weak springs could also be an issue.

It's just me, but if I had the same issues on an old bike and I had it all apart already, I would replace the clutch plates and springs. I see the OEM kit, with the gasket, for $106 on Ebay with free shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I inspected the sprockets and the teeth aren’t rounded or missing any. Chain may be a little stretched. I’ll probably change it in a couple of weeks anyway with a new set of sprockets, but I don’t think that is causing my issue.

bike has 23k miles on it.

I’m in the Jacksonville area.

All the clutch kits from Suzuki I have ever ordered had paint on them and were mostly orange or pink. My most high mileage clutch plates have 50k which includes track days and hard street miles and never failed me. I swapped them out at 50k for a new set and there was no change in performance so I basically wasted my $ but it never hurts to have a backup. The biggest thing is making sure the clutch plate/space orientation is exact as the micro fiche/service manual shows. Also how does your front and rear sprocket look? I have seen sprockets with missing teeth and insane wear (literally no teeth because the owner was a cheap idiot). This can also cause slipping. Where in FL are you?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the help. I went ahead and ordered a new kit with springs and gasket. I have the oil and filter coming as well to get that done while I’m at it.


I don't know if the screw will move when you tighten the lock nut or not but it should be in the same position after tightening the lock nut. Just note the position of the slot before you tighten the lock nut and confirm the screw is in the same position afterwards. I have loosened the screw the same amount it moved so the next time I tightened the lock nut it ended up in the correct position.

Swapping clutch plate positions does not change the stack height so will not change anything.

Whether the rear tire rotates with the clutch disengaged is not a good indication whether the clutch is adjusted correctly or not.

BTW, the Suzuki kit comes with new springs also. Weak springs could also be an issue.

It's just me, but if I had the same issues on an old bike and I had it all apart already, I would replace the clutch plates and springs. I see the OEM kit, with the gasket, for $106 on Ebay with free shipping.
 

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I inspected the sprockets and the teeth aren’t rounded or missing any. Chain may be a little stretched. I’ll probably change it in a couple of weeks anyway with a new set of sprockets, but I don’t think that is causing my issue.

bike has 23k miles on it.

I’m in the Jacksonville area.
You have mentioned problems, and then mention things that have nothing to do with the symptom. LIke, a fuel pump and sprockets/chain- have nothing to do with a clutch that is in fact slipping.
Are you even sure what I think you described was the clutch slipping? It's usually reproducible
Good luck, listen to these folks who know what they are talking about..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The fuel delivery parts and other things I’ve changed out were due to unrelated issues before the possible clutch slippage. The bike was sitting for over a year and wouldn’t run.

I could’ve very well messed up the clutch adjustment and that’s the only issue with the clutch.

But yes, I’m taking the advice on here and soaking up the knowledge. I only know enough just to be dangerous.


You have mentioned problems, and then mention things that have nothing to do with the symptom. LIke, a fuel pump and sprockets/chain- have nothing to do with a clutch that is in fact slipping.
Are you even sure what I think you described was the clutch slipping? It's usually reproducible
Good luck, listen to these folks who know what they are talking about..
 

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The fuel delivery parts and other things I’ve changed out were due to unrelated issues before the possible clutch slippage. The bike was sitting for over a year and wouldn’t run.

I could’ve very well messed up the clutch adjustment and that’s the only issue with the clutch.

But yes, I’m taking the advice on here and soaking up the knowledge. I only know enough just to be dangerous.
If you have a general understanding of what is happening and needs to happen when the clutch is engaged- as in shifting gears, sitting in first gear at a stop, etc. And when it's not- as in full steam ahead = all the motors power to the drivetrain- as in not 'slipping'.

Then read up in the service manual about the 3 point clutch adjustment. Perform that. It may in fact be fine?

Good luck, let us know what happens!
 

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A little more-
Does it start and run/idle right? Good

If it's warmed up, and say you're cruising in a higher gear and medium/low rpms, and nail the throttle w/o touching the clutch lever- does it rev higher on the tack than the wheel speed is traveling?- then it's 'slipping'.

If you shift fast with the clutch to a bigger gear- and the R's start climbing fast, but it doesn't match the acceleration/wheel speed?- again, then it's slipping.

Is this kind of what it's doing? If so, it should be reproducable. Like happen every time you do this. Not just a rare time.

Let us know!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok so I got home and put the clutch back together. Adjusted the cable and clutch shaft again. It no longer lunges when putting it in 1st and holding the lever in.

It starts and idles fine.

Took it down the road and attempted to accelerate quickly and it felt held back. 0-60 in probably 4.5 - 5 seconds. Shifted to 2nd and hit the throttle back hard again. Felt like another crawl up the rpms. Then it suddenly revved up faster without going faster before catching again and accelerating more.



A little more-
Does it start and run/idle right? Good

If it's warmed up, and say you're cruising in a higher gear and medium/low rpms, and nail the throttle w/o touching the clutch lever- does it rev higher on the tack than the wheel speed is traveling?- then it's 'slipping'.

If you shift fast with the clutch to a bigger gear- and the R's start climbing fast, but it doesn't match the acceleration/wheel speed?- again, then it's slipping.

Is this kind of what it's doing? If so, it should be reproducable. Like happen every time you do this. Not just a rare time.

Let us know!
 

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The original goal was to fix the "clutch slippage" problem. Would you say that is gone? When you had this delay in acceleration did the rpms shoot up fast without the bike moving much or was everything just slow?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes the rpms Shot up fast without the bike moving much, then it caught and started to move a lil faster.

The original goal was to fix the "clutch slippage" problem. Would you say that is gone? When you had this delay in acceleration did the rpms shoot up fast without the bike moving much or was everything just slow?
 

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Yes the rpms Shot up fast without the bike moving much, then it caught and started to move a lil faster.
That still sounds like slipping plates, or 1/multiple weak springs.
What oil is in the bike
How old is the oil?
How many miles on the bike?
Was the bike ever launched hard constantly?
Do the plates have any colored paint on them (white or yellow)?
Do you know for sure that those are EBC plates and springs (they don't look like EBC plates with the wider padding)? They look like the stock ones 2005 04 05 Suzuki GSXR 750 GSXR750 Clutch Plates Friction Steel Oem | eBay
 
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