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Discussion Starter #1
I have been skeptical for years of these things because of so much bad publicity from people, but I felt like our technology has progressed enough where this thing should be really good, and it really is! Also just like reviews on any other product peoples opinions need to be read carefully and taken with a grain of salt, and of course someone who owns a dyno is going to say don't use this because it takes business away from them. So here is my review:

-I went with the Dynojet Autotune because I already had a PCV and because it tunes while you ride unlike the Bazzaz (data logger) or others.
-Got it on sale from Revzilla during the holiday so I suggest waiting for that.
-The Physical install was very very easy on my 2017 GSXR 1000.
-I have an M4 full system which has two o2 sensor bungs (one for the stock sensor, and the 18mm for the Autotune).
-I have a flashed & mapped ECU so I did the PAIR delete (removed the PAIR valve and ran the rubber hose from one PAIR to the other then capped the airbox with the rubber nipple (block off plates are a waste of time and money IMO)). If you are tuning a motorcycle YOU must do the PAIR delete to get accurate readings from a wideband sensor or you will run rich.
-Using dynojets youtubes and some google I set everything up with relative ease minus 1 thing. I set a temperature and time delay but noticed after starting the motorcycle and 60 secs had passed that the Autotune was not cutting on (this is where I googled my problem). If you do not have the extra wire to integrate the temperature to the PCV then don't set a temp delay. After I zeroed that out and left 60 seconds delay the Autotune cut on and began mapping.
-The final step was setting the Air to Fuel Ratio (AFR) which is the most important part of all this. Each bike is different so if you have already had a tune you will want your dynos AFR map, if not then you will need to try and find a similar one or build your own. the recommendation for best performance is 13.2 (being the leaner) - 12.8 (being the richer) and not to go outside of those parameters unless you are talking about idle or cruise (14.7 is stoic (too lean will damage the engine)).

The FUN part!
-I went for a ride (maybe 3 miles), came back and plugged it up to my PC (will only work on windows applications) and it had already done a fair bit of mapping (my AFR table was 13.2 from 0/0 to 100/14,250). It completely smoothed out my tune (from SC, but I live in MS with different temps and humidity).
-I went to the fuel table and hit save adjustments then repeated this a couple more times.
-As I made more runs I adjusted some of the erroneous numbers where it would just from 10,11,13,20,15,10 etc (setting that 20 to 14) then hit save, and also adjusting the AFR a little richer in some areas (lower end mostly) where It was too lean. M4 full systems have very wide piping and leaned the bikes rpms (3-4K and below) out too much so it causes bucking.
-From this point I smoothed the AFR table, kept riding and making adjustments (also adjusting the % of change it can do from 15-10-5) for perfection (IMO).
-I still have it on the bike even though I have the map where I want it, just to because I paid for it and because the humidty here in MS fluctuates from 60s to 90s so much but I don't accept the changes, I just let it tune.

My recommendations:
-As stated in their warning DO NOT use with anything other than pump gas, and DO NOT get the o2 sensor wet or you will be spending $100 for a new sensor.
-Do not expect a perfect tune with this but you can expect a very smooth ride. My bike already had a flash and tune so I only bought it to smooth out the bad spots.
-Don't believe everything people say on the forums about this being a "garbage in garbage out" tool. My bike is stupid fast (should not be allowed on the street), its already seen much competition.
-You would benefit from a dyno tune, then using this combined with your dyno AFR map doing the street tune.

If anyone has any questions let me know.
 

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Nice write up. I had a friend put one on his CBR600rr years ago and had issues but they were all user related. Once he had someone that knew the system help him, it worked very well.

It seems to be a great tool as long as you understand how to use it. It's not like putting an app on you phone. ;)

Why pump gas only?
 
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Nice review.
For my K5 (different animal, I know), my mail in ECU flash has no 'bad spots', on the street, or the dyno.
I don't have a PC, so my dyno was just to see if I needed one, etc. Even the dyno operator replied that a PC wouldn't do much of anything for my bike/dyno.
I have no O2 sensors, and I understand that I am missing some realy fine tuning at different ambient conditions.
I can live with that.
If I had your bike however (Me jealous? Naw- yep), I might go with what you have done.

Nice job, glad it's working out for you well. This stuff is fun, isn't it?

Oh, and BTW- based on my results, I'll bet you would dyno at least 5 more Pk HP by simply hooking the crankcase breather to a 'T' fitting- then to each pair reed valve- bypassing the selenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice write up. I had a friend put one on his CBR600rr years ago and had issues but they were all user related. Once he had someone that knew the system help him, it worked very well.

It seems to be a great tool as long as you understand how to use it. It's not like putting an app on you phone. ;)

Why pump gas only?
With most things I spent a lot of time googling and you tubing the subject along with studying AFR tables. So yes its a great tool....as long as you know how to use it lol. I actually looked to see if there was a PCV version for phones and tablets so I could more or less adjust the AFR on the fly but not at this time.

MR12 and other leaded fuels apparently destroy the o2 sensors relatively fast says Dynojet and others, so I could see the "at the track dyno" being a better alternative. The last VP fuel I used was U4 and MR9 but at that time autotuned wasn't available so I am just going by others warnings.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice review.
For my K5 (different animal, I know), my mail in ECU flash has no 'bad spots', on the street, or the dyno.
I don't have a PC, so my dyno was just to see if I needed one, etc. Even the dyno operator replied that a PC wouldn't do much of anything for my bike/dyno.
I have no O2 sensors, and I understand that I am missing some realy fine tuning at different ambient conditions.
I can live with that.
If I had your bike however (Me jealous? Naw- yep), I might go with what you have done.

Nice job, glad it's working out for you well. This stuff is fun, isn't it?

Oh, and BTW- based on my results, I'll bet you would dyno at least 5 more Pk HP by simply hooking the crankcase breather to a 'T' fitting- then to each pair reed valve- bypassing the selenoid.
We used two K6s like yours as our endurance bikes (170, 180, and a 190 horse motor all with pump gas), so I'm vaguely familiar ;). Im not surprised there wasn't any dead spots because ours didn't have them either but we did use a PC on them. Every 1000 prior to 2017 was just such a different animal and you knew exactly what to expect when you bought one. This bike however has been anything but normal. Now that its dialed in "ish", its just sooo much better than our old stuff all around (regardless of the hiccups). For my 2011 I had a Bazzaz, with the Z-Bomb and a NON custom map. I was just riding on the street so I didn't care about peak power but I really don't think the bike had much more in it with a stock motor. It was faster than everything else in the Reno/Tahoe area in a straight line and topped out at 196 so it clearly made the power I was used to (last time being clocked that fast was the back straight of road Atlanta on the endurance bikes (199)). Like the old GSXRs though its problem was weight and a non-600 geometry which is where the 2017+ soars high.

For your bike, he is right, the PC would only allow for a smoother result with little peak power addition. If it is smooth right now and your not running lean I wouldn't touch it.

There are gains to be made with the PAIR mod (I believe 5-6hp) because of the negative crank case pressure, but it wasn't aloud in WERA so we never did it, and then there is oil build up on the exhaust valves from the vapors. Not sure if that oil build up really amounts to anything but I would assume it affects the seal to the head? I just removed the solenoid, blocked everything off, and called it a day.
 

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If you could fab a small oil separator inline with the crankcase breather to PAIR valve mod I'd do it.

If fact, I think the BMW alpha race team sells this same mod.
 

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If you could fab a small oil separator inline with the crankcase breather to PAIR valve mod I'd do it.

If fact, I think the BMW alpha race team sells this same mod.
Sorry to hijack
While I've heard of some doing this, I really don't see the need.
My exhaust isn't any darker from any high amount of oil residue going thru the reed valve and exhaust port to header, etc.
Next time I'm under there, I'll unhook the hose and see how much residue is in the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry to hijack
While I've heard of some doing this, I really don't see the need.
My exhaust isn't any darker from any high amount of oil residue going thru the reed valve and exhaust port to header, etc.
Next time I'm under there, I'll unhook the hose and see how much residue is in the line.
I too would like to see how much residue builds up over a year of riding. Why don't they just skip the whole air injection via the motor and put a bung on the headers with a bolt on external system. Its not like we would un bolt either or anything...
 
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