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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, I goofed up. I didn't know starting the bike with the cables off the set valve so it would stay in full open would cause the pulley under the seat to rotate and pull the cables in! One cable is still in place, the other wrapped around the shaft and is disconnected. No other adjustments have been messed with. I can't put the EXCVA into the adjustment position because I don't know if it will wind the cables up worse!

If this is too tedious of a job, tell me how to disconnect the EXCVA so it doesn't rotate, pull the wire so I dont get the C46 code I'm getting, and for now I'll leave the SET valve at full open and see how it runs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just tried putting the bike in dealer mode turning the key on to try to get the EXCVA to go to adjustment position but it appears that it went to the opposite position. The holes for the cables to attach are closest to the front of the bike not the rear of the bike as the picture in the service manual shows. Now I don't know what to do. Since it was in Dealer mode the display showed "C00" with the hash line at the bottom.
 

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I’m not sure if this helps you but I remember when I did my stva on 2000 750 , every time you turned the key on the stva motor spun , the stva rotor can stop in 2 positions, and I had to figure out the correct position in order for it to work correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did it stop in two positions 180 degrees from each other? So maybe if I hit it again tomorrow it will turn to the back? (I just have to make sure there is enough slack in the cable or take this second one off. I already marked it and the hole it is in) If someone can tell me for sure how to unplug the motor and then not get the C46 code on my 2011 bike, I'll try leaving it disconnected with the valve in the wide open position.
 

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They make some things called a servo buddy and simular items, it’s a device to fool the computer in thinking the servo motor is still there and you will not get the code I beleive they are around 50$ , the stva on a 2000 stva is very simular to your exhaust servo yes it cycled 180 degrees , there’s even threads and you tube vids how simular they are and how to swap one for the other. I had to do my stva 3-4 times before I figured it out. It was a while ago I don’t remember every detail. The stva rotor had to be in the correct position, I think I had to manually open the butterfly’s during install.
 

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You should be able to take the pulley off which should make it easy to unwind things. But follow the service manual procedure of bracing the pulley with a wrench so that the torque of turning the mounting screw is taken up by the wrench and not the actuator internals (there are plastic gears inside). As I recall, the actuator shaft has flats so that the pulley can be installed in only two ways and there's a line on the shaft end that's supposed to "point" to the cable slots. Check your service manual. But aside from that, it's prudent to mark things so that you're sure that you're putting it back together the same way that it came apart.

As I understand it, the actuator motor is a DC servo type that is capable of turning the pulley indefinitely in either direction. There's a position sensor inside that provides information on the pulley position. Apparently during startup the pulley rotates, turning the SET valve in the process, until resistance is met. At that point, the current through the motor changes along with the voltage to the motor. The ECM senses that and notes the pulley position. It does that for rotation in both directions. Or at least that's what I think is going on.

I wasn't aware that the pulley would turn so far when the cables weren't connected. But the solution, except when you're setting the pulley to the adjustment position, is to unplug the actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I got the cable problem solved but still need help!!
I checked the TPS according to the service manual, and when the bike is warmed up, the hash line stayed at the bottom of the "C00", so I corrected that. I thought fixing the SET valve spring and the TPS would mostly fix my loss if power problem. It didn't.
Here's what I know: The service manual says when the key is turned on, the SET valve should fully open, turn to full close, then open to about 35%. Mine opens to about 80%!! Also, if the bike has warmed up some and I rev the bike up to 5,000 or so and hold it, the valve opens then rotates right to about half closed or more. Could this be part of why I have the "restricted" sound and performance? I thought that above low rpms, the valve was supposed to be open. What if I just unplug the EXCVA unit do it doesn't close the valve and just let the spring hopefully hold it at full open?? Please help.
 

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That's what I was suggesting in your other thread. It ought to be fairly easy to disconnect the cables, unplug the actuator connectors, check that the valve is open, and go for a ride. I'm not sure about yours but it may be necessary to unbolt the pulley at either the actuator or the SET valve to be able to disconnect the cables from the pulley. This will also give you the opportunity to check for 90° of movement and confirm that the valve moves freely, i.e. they sometimes start sticking. Wire the valve open if there's any question of it not staying open.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys. I'll work on it again later this morning. Cables run straight out of the shearing and around the pulleys to the hole, just like the pics in the service manual. During the initial check? When the key is turned on The SET valve does turn from one stop to the other just like the manual says it should, it's just that I noticed it stops at around 80% open and not 35% shut. I know the valve is supposed to provide back pressure at low rpms, and that's what confused me about the position and the direction it was rotating. The shaft on the motor pulley is also turned in the proper position hash like on shaft and ended of pulley away from main unit facing the back of bike the the pic shows.
 
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