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C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (01-02 1000 and 06-07 600/750/1000 ONLY)

Location of dealer mode switch and how to get the codes.

The dealer mode connector is under the tail cowling on the left side of the bike, near the regulator/rectifier. It will have only two wires going to it. It is is small white connector that does not plug into anything, and has a rubber cap on one end.

BLACK W/ GREEN BAND Wire with a WHITE STRIPE and a
WHITE W/ GREEN BAND Wire with a RED STRIPE
you just use a paper clip to jump the two wires together in the connector. this is for models with 16 bit ECM's

or you can buy ONE OF THESE (16- bit has 2 wires at thh plug/ 32 bit has 4 wires at the plug)
https://www2.2checkout.com/2co/buyer/orderpage?TCOID=1c303730b9cc912a7055a9c7c5affe26&sid=60770









05/06 1000


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Discussion Starter #2

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This is weird, after riding my 2002 GSXR-1000 over 19,000 miles I get the F1 code C46. I follow the directions according to the link which the white connection was still plugged up to the Servo and splice the other two wires B/R & R/B. Code is gone which I tested this after for over 1 hour. No F1 code. What really amazes me is how come I rode for over 19,000 miles before this happened and never got a Code C46. Originally when the full exhaust Yosh RS-3 was installed all was done was the black/brown wire from the ECU input will prevent that "Fi" warning message from appearing in your instrument panel. That was the only wire cut, that's it. Oh well problem solved which I have been pondering this whole year. hehe...:thumbup:
 

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F1

On 2005 GSXR1000 when I install the jumper I get the C00 code. How do I get rid of the F1 and light if nothing is wrong?Looked through everything listed and I did not see anything about it.
Thanks
 

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On 2005 GSXR1000 when I install the jumper I get the C00 code. How do I get rid of the F1 and light if nothing is wrong?Looked through everything listed and I did not see anything about it.
Thanks
Disconnect you neg(-) side of your battery and let set for 5 min.
C00 means no fault found. Just think you need to reset the entire ECU/CDI.
Did you hook up a full exhaust? I think there's a brown wire on you harness plug to your ECU that needs to be cut. Can't tell you exactly which one. That will keep the F1 code from showing up but I'm not sure about you 05 model. I have the 02 1000cc, it's wiring is all different.
 

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Got it figured out. I actually had a fault, the jumper is installed while the system is powered up. Got the fault for exhaust, my scorpion exhaust wheel that replaces the cable pully on the servo fell off. I had to make a new one. When you cycle the key it resets the ECU, no fault.
Thanks for the great info from everybody.
 

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where is the plug on a k61000 b/c i took mine seat cowl off and do not see it??? also my fi light come on for like 10 seconds at my girlfriends house so i cut the bike off and cut it right back on now the fi light is gone and i rode back home and to the gas station and it has not come back on,,,also the bike seems to be running fine
 

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well i have a manual now and from what i can tell mine is right beside the battery,,,but i think it has 6 wires in it instead of 2 so does any one know which ones to run together with a paperclip so i can check for codes even though its not doing anything anymore
 

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Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control

Hey , I got 2006 GSXR 750 , the code was c46 , FI light stays on all the time . I took the back tail section off to get to the Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control , I forced it counterclock wise and it cuts off the exhaust , then turn the key on it readjust back to postion it stays at and the FI light goes off ,turn it off then back on the FI light comes back on and stays on, when I turn key on the Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control does not move it just clicks and jerks a little. But if i force it counterclock wise it will move back to the original position.I adjusted the cable both ways no diffrence the FI light stays on , disconnected the cables off Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control when turn the key on it rotates about half a turn clockwise ,still keeps the FI light on when its running.any advise ? Thanks for any suggestions !
 

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K6 750

After riding over 10,000 miles on my 2006 750, FI started to show instead of temperature... (only) sometimes. Took it to dealer who said it needed to adjust exhaust valve (the wires) - as the error was shown because the valve did not fully close. 8,000 more miles since then and no problem. ..So guess I'm speaking 'bout your C46 issue :)
 

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After riding over 10,000 miles on my 2006 750, FI started to show instead of temperature... (only) sometimes. Took it to dealer who said it needed to adjust exhaust valve (the wires) - as the error was shown because the valve did not fully close. 8,000 more miles since then and no problem. ..So guess I'm speaking 'bout your C46 issue :)
..also look to Service Manual thread here to get more info from manuals
 

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one option could be just to take the set valve out and disconnect the wire that runs to the ecu,,,i think its a brown wire but not real sure there are threads up about it if that's the route you choose to take
 

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one option could be just to take the set valve out and disconnect the wire that runs to the ecu,,,i think its a brown wire but not real sure there are threads up about it if that's the route you choose to take
It could also be a solution :).

Recently I saw a discussion somewhere (cannot remember where) where one guy was wondering, whether the x-haust valve (at K6/K7 750) is rather for fullfilling noise emissions instead of increasing midrange torque... but I do not know the answer ;)
 

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i couldnt tell a difference on my k61000 but that was also with a slip on,,, most exhaust do away with them anyway
 

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If you disconnect the brown wire from the set valve that goes to the ecu will the bike be able to go over 186mph? I have heard that a wire controls the speedometer limiter and if we disconnect that wire the speedoemter will be able to proceed past 186mph. So, which wire stops the bike from going beyond the limiter 186mph? I was told by someone who installed a slip-on Yosh. that he disconnected a wire from the exhaust valve and it will now go beyond 186mph.
 

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If you disconnect the brown wire from the set valve that goes to the ecu will the bike be able to go over 186mph? I have heard that a wire controls the speedometer limiter and if we disconnect that wire the speedoemter will be able to proceed past 186mph. So, which wire stops the bike from going beyond the limiter 186mph? I was told by someone who installed a slip-on Yosh. that he disconnected a wire from the exhaust valve and it will now go beyond 186mph.
set valve wire has nothing to do with the limiter,,,you can put a tre on it and that will allow bikes to run faster than the factory limiter,,,as far as the wire goes who ever told you that is full of it
 

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so i have a 05 600 and i think i seen the plug but it seam to have 4 wires does anyone know which ones i jump .. also .. if im looking at the right ones .. its under the seat behind all the ecu and all the other shit there .. thanks for your help
 

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nobody seems to know on the newere bikes but i do believe mine is right beside battery with a rubber cap on it however like everyone else I dont know what wires to jumper either. for those having issues with the valve when you turn your key on watch the cables under oil pan and see what they do, from what i have seen the issue with these servos is a wire coming undone that needs to be re soldered.
 

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Hey , I got 2006 GSXR 750 , the code was c46 , FI light stays on all the time . I took the back tail section off to get to the Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control , I forced it counterclock wise and it cuts off the exhaust , then turn the key on it readjust back to postion it stays at and the FI light goes off ,turn it off then back on the FI light comes back on and stays on, when I turn key on the Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control does not move it just clicks and jerks a little. But if i force it counterclock wise it will move back to the original position.I adjusted the cable both ways no diffrence the FI light stays on , disconnected the cables off Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control when turn the key on it rotates about half a turn clockwise ,still keeps the FI light on when its running.any advise ? Thanks for any suggestions !
2006 600. Did exactly same thing. Had to take of the stock exhaust just to check what was the valve doing.

Key always on, I noticed that when you turn the red switch (run) ON, valve will close 70% then fully open again. When I switched the run button off then once again ON, Ive noticed that now (2nd time) the valve closed 100%.



Did this same thing, but now getting the engine running and guess what? Turned the key ON, turned the run bttn ON and started the engine.
FI was blinking.
Turned the run OFF,then back ON, hit the start an the FI was gone.
This second time I could actually hear a quick mute in the exhaust, caused for the complete valve closure.
Ive came to understand that every every time when you start your bike and valve doesn't fully closes you get FI but when you start your bike and valve closes 100% then opens right back you don't get FI.
So, every single time the valve fully closed after startup I wouldn't get the FI advise.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:
1-Low battery voltage- When you are about to start your engine, lights, gauges, starter, ECU and valve servo, all these makes a big drain in batt. lowering the voltage causing servo not to be strong enough to fully close the valve. (The last 20% of the valve movement is the hardest one cuz of the spring array that tends to keep it open)

2-Damaged servo- As any servo after a while it can loose part of its power(just an option)

3- rusted valve junctures (will spray chain lube tomorrow, let you know what happened. Hopefully wont start a fire)

This is just what Ive seen in my bike. I could be completely wrong.
Guess we should ask a SUKI designer.
ofcourse we are not going to find one here::laughingr

Later..........
 

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atomspheric pressure valve?

I put my bike into dealer mode and it showed code C22. From that chart it said the it is the atomspheric pressure valve. Alright so how do I fix it?
 
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