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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im very new so please help me out...every once in a while when I start my bike the FI light comes on so I shut it off and restart the bike and its gone..why is this happening??????
 

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Because something is wrong with your bike. Read the Tech FAQ section on putting your bike in "Dealer Mode" so you can retrieve the code. From there we can figure out what's wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I cant find it in the tech faq section..I think all I gotta do is connect the w/r and b/w wires with a paper clip right...the ones in the left side tail section
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay so I found it under the seat by the battery...now Im off 2 get a switch 2 install there so I dont have to go thru this again hopefully...As soon as Im done I,ll tell ya the code and we can go from there thanks
 

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heres a list of fault codes


C00 no fault
C11 camshaft position sensor
C12 crankshaft position sensor
C13 intake air pressure sensor
C14 throttle position sensor
C15 engine coolant temperature sensor
C21 intake air temp sensor
C22 atmospheric pressure sensor
C23 tip over sensor
C24 ignition signal for no.1 cyl.
C25 ignition signal for no.2 cyl.
C26 ignition signal for no.3 cyl.
C27 ignition signal for no.4 cyl.
C28 secondary throttle valve actuator
C30 secondary throttle control unit
C31 gear position signal
C32 injector signal for no.1
C33 injector signal for no.2
C34 injector signal for no.3
C35 injector signal for no.4
C41 fuel pump control system
C42 ignition switch signal
C46 exhaust control valve actuator (1000 only)

“C11” (P0340) CMP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C12” (P0335) CKP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C13” (P0105-H/L) IAP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C14” (P0120-H/L) TP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C15” (P0115-H/L) ECT SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C21” (P0110-H/L) IAT SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C22” (P1450-H/L) AP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C23” (P1651-H/L) TO SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C24” (P0351), Coil #1IGNITION SYSTEM MALFUNCTION
“C25” (P0352), Coil #2
“C26” (P0353) Coil #3
“C27” (P0354) Coil #4
“C28” (P1655) Secondary TV ACTUATOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C29” (P1654-H/L) Secondary TP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION


FI SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
“C31” (P0705) Gear Position SWITCH CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C32” (P0201), #1PRIMARY FUEL INJECTOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C33” (P0202), #2
“C34” (P0203) #3
“C35” (P0204) #4

“C36” (P1764), # 1 SECONDARY FUEL INJECTOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C37” (P1765), #2
“C38” (P1766) #3
“C39” (P1767) #4

“C41” (P0230-H/L) FP RELAY CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C42” (P01650) IG SWITCH CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C44” (P0130/P0135) HO2 SENSOR (HO2S)
CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (For E-02, 19)
“C46” (P1657-H/L or P1658) EXCV ACTUATOR
CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C49” (P1656) PAIR CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
“C60” (P0480) COOLING FAN RELAY CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Please help me!!!!! Somebody..

Okay I know Im a squid and new 2 riding so I need help..My FI light came on so I installed a switch to check out dealer mode..The light came on i hit the switch and it says _C46 I have a 2006 gsxr 600 with a slip on Leo exhaust and a PCIII al dealer installed...I looked on the forum and it says “C46” (P1657-H/L or P1658) EXCV ACTUATOR
CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

What does this mean and how would I fix this..Please and thank you
 

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I think that refers to the valve in the exhaust. Maybe not opening or closing all the way. Search the fourms on that valve and you will get more info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Because something is wrong with your bike. Read the Tech FAQ section on putting your bike in "Dealer Mode" so you can retrieve the code. From there we can figure out what's wrong.
Okay I finally got the switch installed and the code is _C46 what does this mean and how can I fix it...Thanks 4 the help..I appreciate it alot
 

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rotaredom
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what bike do you have? looks like you may need to adjust your SET valve on the exhaust, or the servo motor is on the blink..."IF" your SET valve is still on the bike and not removed.
 

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rotaredom
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ok found your duplicate post..you have a 2006 600 correct? and you removed the SET valve for the new exhaust correct? if so there is a wire you need to disconnect to stop the FI light...search in the TECH section for SET valve removal....
 

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ok found your duplicate post..you have a 2006 600 correct? and you removed the SET valve for the new exhaust correct? if so there is a wire you need to disconnect to stop the FI light...search in the TECH section for SET valve removal....
The exhaust was on the bike when I bought it..So how do i check to see if the Set valve has been removed or not??
 

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Look for the valve in the exhaust, if its still there then trace the cables up to the actuator under the tail, see if the actuator is still pluged in. Not rocket science...

Also when you turn your key on I belive the bike cycles the SET valve. Put your head down by the exhaust and listen to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Look for the valve in the exhaust, if its still there then trace the cables up to the actuator under the tail, see if the actuator is still pluged in. Not rocket science...

Also when you turn your key on I belive the bike cycles the SET valve. Put your head down by the exhaust and listen to it.
Okay I looked in the exhaust and didnt see anything..I also cycled the bike and didnt hear anything except the fuel pump...So now what?
 

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copied this from another site so the pics did not follow.. i can p.m you the link to sign up if you like. up date looks like the link works and with pic's have fun.



Here's how to remove the SET Valve. The original site that it was posted went down for awhile... its a good instructional how-to and would suck if the site it was originally posted on went down.



Posted by Nate.
http://www.tfriders.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=71

Removing the SET valve will give you a bit more throaty exhaust note.
Its also said to give about 2 horsepower, and this was verified with a dyno. You results may vary of course, however I did notice a bit of a difference in sound and it feels a bit quicker, but its probably just wishful thinking.
You can find high res copies of all these pics on my flickr account here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/nate_stans ... 693296010/


Wiring
Remove the seat. You will need to remove the passage seat later so you can do it now if you want to.


Remove cross bracket. This is optional but makes it easier to work on.


Use a flathead to release both cable harnesses. Apply slight pressure and push towards the back of the bike. A second screwdriver can be used to help pry, don’t twist them though as you’ll score or break the connector retaining tabs.




Pull out both harnesses, the grey one is not needed but pulling it out makes the black harness easier to work with.


Locate pin 30, bottom row, 5th from the left. Yes 5th from the left. Black with brown stripe and green dots. Pin 29 (to the right of it) is also black with a brown stripe and green dots. Don’t touch it!


Cut the wire to pin 30. Cut it far enough up that you can reconnect it later if needed. Like for warranty claims.


Tape the ends with high quality electrical tape. Do not use el-cheapo tape as it will not hold for long. I always use 3M electrical tape. You can also use crimp on connectors made for ending a wire lead.


Reconnect both harnesses, be sure they are secure; things quit working if they come undone.


Freeing up the cables
Remove the right side fairing bolt and pop the fairing out of the middle rubber grommet


The goal, the SET cable


Loosen the bolts holding the cable ends in place.


Once loosened, disconnect them. It can be a real pain as there isn’t much play. In hindsight, it’s probably easier to disconnect the ends from the servo first so free up this end.


Prop up the tank. (Prop tool is in the “trunk” if you didn’t already know that)


Cut the cable tie holding the cables in place. Once you remove the cables, replace the cable tie with a new one. It’s there for a reason.


You can pull the cables out now, or wait until you have removed the servo.



Control servo
Remove the passenger seat if you haven’t done so already.

Rather than removing the entire rear fairing, I choose to remove only the side that I needed to in order to get to the servo. Either way will work. I’ve never removed the entire rear fairing so I'm not sure how much easier, if any, it is to remove just the side.
Remove the 4 plastic fairing retainers.
To remove these, push the middle in, it should "pop" in about 1/4 of an inch.



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Are you Active Duty, Reserve, or Retired Military? Click here for 20-30% off on motorcycle gear!
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
copied this from another site so the pics did not follow.. i can p.m you the link to sign up if you like. up date looks like the link works and with pic's have fun.



Here's how to remove the SET Valve. The original site that it was posted went down for awhile... its a good instructional how-to and would suck if the site it was originally posted on went down.



Posted by Nate.
http://www.tfriders.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=71

Removing the SET valve will give you a bit more throaty exhaust note.
Its also said to give about 2 horsepower, and this was verified with a dyno. You results may vary of course, however I did notice a bit of a difference in sound and it feels a bit quicker, but its probably just wishful thinking.
You can find high res copies of all these pics on my flickr account here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/nate_stans ... 693296010/


Wiring
Remove the seat. You will need to remove the passage seat later so you can do it now if you want to.


Remove cross bracket. This is optional but makes it easier to work on.


Use a flathead to release both cable harnesses. Apply slight pressure and push towards the back of the bike. A second screwdriver can be used to help pry, don’t twist them though as you’ll score or break the connector retaining tabs.




Pull out both harnesses, the grey one is not needed but pulling it out makes the black harness easier to work with.


Locate pin 30, bottom row, 5th from the left. Yes 5th from the left. Black with brown stripe and green dots. Pin 29 (to the right of it) is also black with a brown stripe and green dots. Don’t touch it!


Cut the wire to pin 30. Cut it far enough up that you can reconnect it later if needed. Like for warranty claims.


Tape the ends with high quality electrical tape. Do not use el-cheapo tape as it will not hold for long. I always use 3M electrical tape. You can also use crimp on connectors made for ending a wire lead.


Reconnect both harnesses, be sure they are secure; things quit working if they come undone.


Freeing up the cables
Remove the right side fairing bolt and pop the fairing out of the middle rubber grommet


The goal, the SET cable


Loosen the bolts holding the cable ends in place.


Once loosened, disconnect them. It can be a real pain as there isn’t much play. In hindsight, it’s probably easier to disconnect the ends from the servo first so free up this end.


Prop up the tank. (Prop tool is in the “trunk” if you didn’t already know that)


Cut the cable tie holding the cables in place. Once you remove the cables, replace the cable tie with a new one. It’s there for a reason.


You can pull the cables out now, or wait until you have removed the servo.



Control servo
Remove the passenger seat if you haven’t done so already.

Rather than removing the entire rear fairing, I choose to remove only the side that I needed to in order to get to the servo. Either way will work. I’ve never removed the entire rear fairing so I'm not sure how much easier, if any, it is to remove just the side.
Remove the 4 plastic fairing retainers.
To remove these, push the middle in, it should "pop" in about 1/4 of an inch.



__________________

www.myspace.com/whoaisthatme
Are you Active Duty, Reserve, or Retired Military? Click here for 20-30% off on motorcycle gear!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yes if you could please pm me the link I would appreciate it ....Well here goes nothing..
 

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Yes if you could please pm me the link I would appreciate it ....Well here goes nothing..
check the first link in my post. it seems to be working again. i think his was an 07 but should be the same. Let acouple guys chime in on the subject b4 you just start cutting wires. keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
check the first link in my post. it seems to be working again. i think his was an 07 but should be the same. Let acouple guys chime in on the subject b4 you just start cutting wires. keep us posted
Yes the link is working..wow with great directions I might add..Thanks alot 4 that..So after i do this will I need to get my PCIII remapped?? I see that alot of people say they lost sum power but the PCIII fixed that 4 them..Thanks again for all the help :thumbup:
 

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Yes the link is working..wow with great directions I might add..Thanks alot 4 that..So after i do this will I need to get my PCIII remapped?? I see that alot of people say they lost sum power but the PCIII fixed that 4 them..Thanks again for all the help :thumbup:
i have not done this mod so as far as the re map i am not sure. i am sure someone here would know. yea the guy took very detailed pic's and what not to post. it's the love of two wheels and always willing to help a fellow rider out.:thumbup:
 
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