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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there fellow riders and mechanics, got some major issues with my front brakes that i have been fighting for a year and i have spent a bunch of cash and not sure what to do and from my point of view all that i can do is step up to all brembo equipment which is gonna be in excess of 1000 bucks but i think i have done just about everything to fix it. So here goes kind of long story so bear with me. About a year ago i picked up this k7 that was kind of abused and neglected but was a good deal right off the bat the brakes were bad so i assessed them and put new rotors on (warped) , new core ss lines ,hh sintered pads, and disassembled the calipers and cleaned all the sludge out and did the same with the reservoir and mc and new bleeders and put thread tape on and did thread tape on the threads and bled bled and zip tied the lever down for two days and no bubbles what so ever but the lever travel is about an inch before any bite, so i bled again several times and still the same and scratching my head cuz i never had this problem ever on any bike and a few weeks later i did the recall on the master at the dealer and still the same prob so i did the rebleeding on the new mc and still the same and winter came and bought a 2016 mc thinking the 3/4 bore and the k7 mc is just that way and maybe suzuki got it worked out by then cuz i have talked to other suzuki guys and they said that is the way it is. Well i put the new 2016 mc on a few weeks ago and still the same prob. Any suggestions or help wiuld be great thanx.
 

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I don't recall ever using thread tape. I am wondering if you may have a piece of thread tape in there somewhere causing your problems... That or (please take no offence) you are not bleeding them correctly. You have certainly done all the right stuff. Didn't the dealership bleed the brakes when they did the MC recall? You might consider taking it back to them if they did and make it their problem.
 

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Welcome.

After it is bled, is the lever firm even though it takes some travel to get resistance?

If you pump the lever a few times, does the travel reduce?
 

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Did you try a might vac? it still sounds like there is air in the line somewhere. Have you watched the caliper movement when squeezing the lever to see when the pistons engage vs where the lever pull is (your "biting" point)? Brakes are really simple on these bikes and only the mc usually fails but you have replaced it (not to say the new one couldn't be bad considering my new gsxr 1000s failed on me at 500 miles).
 

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So, It's a K7.
Is it a 600? 750? 1000?

And, maybe a little bit of punctuation?

Something seems off for sure.
Good Luck and Welcome to the site.
 

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When you bleed.... Do you use a rubber mallet to tap at the caliper? Or piston?

Remember air rises, sometimes you have to bleed from the top depending on circumstances, ie at your master cylinder.
 

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If the MC recall was done at the dealer, I would assume it was bled correctly.

After the inch of travel and it makes contact, does it get firm?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well gentlemen thanx for all your replies and to answer your questions. Its a k7 1000. The dealer did bleed the recall but this suzuki dealership is terrible and their reputation for service and repairs is awful and none of their mechanics are certified suzuki or ase certified, and when i got the bike back it was missing the reservoir clamp and they lost it and they did not even know what it looked like and i had to show them on their computer. So they said they would get me a new one and it took almost 2 months, so in short im not going back and the next nearest dealer is over a hundred miles away. To answer the other questions, yes i have mityvaced them and tapped on lines and calipers and mc. This has been an issue with every nisin suzuki mc that i have had. The only thing i can think is the 2pc tokico calipers are just not good. The lever does not get firmer with more pumps. I think i might try moto joes technique and if that does not do it then i will just get some brembo m4 calipers and a corsa mc, i just cant see putting in more cash into the stock system cuz im already into it over a grand and only put 300 miles on it in a year. Every thing you guys have suggested i have tried, never had this issue with my srad750 or my cbr1000rr. I read on one of these forums somewhere that is the way nisin makes the mc for suzuki with lots of travel because it has better modulation that way. Wow this is a long story here, sorry bout that.
 

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So get a brembo RCS master first. You can get them for about 250 on ebay. Yes, the OEM calipers flex a bit. But that shouldn't affect initial take-up.
 

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Maybe the next step would be rebuilding the calipers... The piston seals. Or just get some used Brembo calipers.

Suzuki is not known for their brakes. Their calipers are not monoblocks.
 

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So get a brembo RCS master first. You can get them for about 250 on ebay. Yes, the OEM calipers flex a bit. But that shouldn't affect initial take-up.
+1 right here is the answer. Not only does it work better than stock , it has a bleeder on top that takes 2 mins to bleed.
corsa Corte RCS is what I’d get.
 

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I think something is being overlooked. I have a k7 1000 also, all stock. The brakes are much more capable than anything I can throw at them. No offense, but if you rebuilt the calipers are you sure that they were done correctly. Nothing leaking?

And you mentioned cleaning sludge out of the calipers and master cylinder. Is it possible you missed some and it's being pushed around your system?

What levers do you have on there? Some cheapies with a bad design causing too much slop/freeplay.

Just spitballing here...
 

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Lopitt,

Agreed with your viewpoints about it.
Hell, my K5 Liter with stock everything, even lines, will stand on it's head from just adding EBC HH sintered pads.
It also stopped pretty well with the OEM ones too.

It's all relative however I'm sure.
 

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AND, the OP post.
I can show you many a post, that basically state 'rotors don't WARP'. They can get uneven brake pad residue buildup on them. Oh wait, they could actually warp from a high impact crash too.
Those are some strong puppies those rotors. But you replaced them- maybe they were really warped- got a picture of them?
 

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I don't know if you guys have even tried other braking systems before, but if you ride a Ducati the difference is night & day.

Even the Yamaha r6 had monoblock calipers. This gives good feedback because there's no flexing in the calipers.

With the ducatis or other premium bikes, you can stop the bike at high speed with 1 finger on the lever. I grip the brakes with 2 fingers. At oem, I would have to do a full grab with 4 fingers to stop my bike at speed,plus the brake feels wooden.

No secret that suzuki's have one of the worst brakes.
 

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I don't recall ever using thread tape. I am wondering if you may have a piece of thread tape in there somewhere causing your problems... That or (please take no offence) you are not bleeding them correctly. You have certainly done all the right stuff. Didn't the dealership bleed the brakes when they did the MC recall? You might consider taking it back to them if they did and make it their problem.
You use the teflon tape on the bleeders so they don’t pull air when you vacuum bleed the system.
 

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I don't know if you guys have even tried other braking systems before, but if you ride a Ducati the difference is night & day.

Even the Yamaha r6 had monoblock calipers. This gives good feedback because there's no flexing in the calipers.

With the ducatis or other premium bikes, you can stop the bike at high speed with 1 finger on the lever. I grip the brakes with 2 fingers. At oem, I would have to do a full grab with 4 fingers to stop my bike at speed,plus the brake feels wooden.

No secret that suzuki's have one of the worst brakes.
I've had ridden a gsxr 1k with the brembo master and it was nice, no doubt about it. I'm not saying that the brakes cant be improved. I'm just saying that if he put on new HH sintered pads, new rotors, steel braided lines, cleaned the master, rebuild the calipers, and new fluid and still the brakes are bad, then something is either failed, clogged, dirty, or improperly put together. He has serviced the whole system. Even the stock brakes can haul these things down from speed well enough to send it tail over nose. Something isnt right that's being overlooked, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yea i cant figure it out. There is firm pressure after the initial 1 inch of travel. I went through the system again a few days ago and there is no leaks. Here is what i have and done. 2016 brand new m/c, core ss lines, arashi wave rotors, ebc hh sintered pads, and new o rings but not new pistons( the old ones looked good ) the calipers are the 2 pc tokicos. Im running teflon tape on all the bleeders, and Chinese ride it levers, but the result is the same even with stock levers. I cleaned the system with it all apart and not a spec of dust. When the brakes come on its good, its just the travel that is the problem, because by the time they are on the lever is almost touch my knuckles. I had a friend of mine who races and has track bikes come and look at it and he is stumped too. I have been working on bikes and cars since i was 10 and never encountered this. The only thing is maybe from taking it apart so many times the crush washers are worn but there is zero air in there. But i recently found a set of k9 monoblocks and they will be here soon and we shall see whats up. I didnt want to put on the fake brembos that came stock on the newer models and i didnt want the to lay down the cash for some m4 brembos, plus i have heard stories that the k9 monos are just as good if not a bit better. So im interested to see what happens next so i will keep you posted. Sorry for the bad grammer guys. Thanks for your help and comments.
 
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