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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, here goes. My 'new' 2012 GSXR 1000 L2 will not rev past 9K. I have read all the posts on this with the majority blaming fuel pumps and filters but I am not convinced.
My bike has a Micron slip on pipe and an exhaust valve eliminator fitted to disable the servo and fix the FI light. I was hoping the problem was there so reversed it and plugged the servo back in and watched it cycle ok... exactly the same problem (but with the FI light back on)... Not the cause.
It doesn not pull strong anywhere, my ZX6R pulled miles harder that it in A, B and C modes. Infact there is no noticable difference in any of the modes, therfore if the fuel pump or fuel delivery were the issue you would still expect to see some sort of change between modes up to the 9K wall... is there a real noticable difference between A,B and C? I dont think its a coil pack or plug breaking down either as it doesnt feel like or sound like its dropping to 3 cylinders... besiedes, if it was that it would sound rough all the way as the power is missing everywhere.
That leads me to the secondary throttle valve or TPS, any thoughts on the symptoms? Also, what could stop the mode selector stop selecting maps (the clocks do say its in A, B and C when I change them, just no difference at all).
As an idea of the problem, I can roll on in 1st gear with the throttle wide open on a wet and greasy road and not spin or wheelie anywhere. My ZX6R would have lit up like a christmas tree in 1st, 2nd and 3rd!!!
 

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Make sure the exhaust valve is in the full open position (the spring is made to keep it full open)

You can think and doubt all you like but a fuel pressure and volume test will actually provide you with the answer.

If you have a doubt about the STVA then just unplug the actuator, push the plates full open by hand and ride the bike to see if it makes any difference. This has been discussed a couple of times recently.

I recall it was a low miles, like "new" bike but it has still been sitting around for 10 years so rust and fuel gum happen.
 

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I would make a fuel discharge test.
Lift and support the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel pump hose from fuel rail side and put free hose end into measurement can, disconnect the lead wire coupler of the fuel pump and do fuel discharge test.as described in service manual:

Font Circle Water Paper Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes the exhaust valve is fully open... it was seized but I freed it off and its moving pretty freely now. Still rests in the fully open position, if it was in the closed position would the power at the bottom end suffer so much too?
The STVA is a thought but I would like to see what the symptoms other prople have had when they play up. Same story with the TPS, I am not sure that would cause an engine not to rev past a certain point... I would expect it to just be weak.
It feels electrical to me but I want to rule out the easy stuff first!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would make a fuel discharge test.
Lift and support the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel pump hose from fuel rail side and put free hose end into measurement can, disconnect the lead wire coupler of the fuel pump and do fuel discharge test.as described in service manual:

View attachment 299628
Unfortunately I dont have a service manual for it, is there a link to it anywhere here?
I will give it a go, my KTM990 (all KTM's) was a nightmare with fuel pumps and filters but never felt like this... it just gradually lost power at full throttle, this is weak everywhere and the modes dont feel any different at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok, put it into dealer mode and as I suspected there are no codes (COOO), the TPS is low though and takes a touch of throttle to hit the middle bar. I have no idea how to get to the TPS though as its right behind the frame rail on the L2 and there is nothing on youtube... any ideas?
While down there I went to check the secondary throttle valves and they are wide open and all ok. The air filter on the other hand is minging (see pic). I will stick a new one in this week and see if that is the cause of the problem, hopefully it will sort it.
 

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all sorted... simple as a blocked filter. Its always wise to start at the simple things before diving in with ripping the thing apart.
I'm guessing the air filter judging from your previous post?
 

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ok, put it into dealer mode and as I suspected there are no codes (COOO), the TPS is low though and takes a touch of throttle to hit the middle bar. I have no idea how to get to the TPS though as its right behind the frame rail on the L2 and there is nothing on youtube... any ideas?
Glad you found your problem...
Wonder what the deal with tps though
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Glad you found your problem...
Wonder what the deal with tps though
While checking for fault codes I seen that the TPS was _COO. I had the tank lifted and the top of the airbox off and looked for the TPS but it is right behind the frame rail! God knows how it can be got at...
Just hoping that the engine was stone cold and you are supposed to check when its up to temp so it is possible that its in spec.
 

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ok, put it into dealer mode and as I suspected there are no codes (COOO), the TPS is low though and takes a touch of throttle to hit the middle bar. I have no idea how to get to the TPS though as its right behind the frame rail on the L2 and there is nothing on youtube... any ideas?
While down there I went to check the secondary throttle valves and they are wide open and all ok. The air filter on the other hand is minging (see pic). I will stick a new one in this week and see if that is the cause of the problem, hopefully it will sort it.
That looks a lot like the one I took off mine, but it may not actually be that bad. That looks like a high flow K&N type and they need to be cleaned off and re-wetted in oil to actually do the job of filtering, so they need to be removed and dealt with frequently.

I had the opposite problem, mine had lost its oil wetting and had allowed some particulate matter through. Just fine stuff, but being anal as I am that was not something I wanted to see. I replaced with standard paper filter and swapped the oil multiple times.

I think the problem is that a lot of people go with the high flow type, and why not, but then treat it as if it is a paper filter that doesn't need any attention between services. If you are careless that you can't be bothered to check very often (like me!) then old fashioned paper is best. For the sake of achieving a bhp or two more at the redline versus the maintenance hassle, I don't see any value in high flow filters on the road.

I kept what was in there, as you can too, and if I ever go to a track, who knows, maybe I'll degrease it and oil it up.
 
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