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Discussion Starter #1
Hi to all my friend..my bike have issue running 3 clynder...check the error code it was P0203 was up..already do valve clearence,change plug,service the injector..but still running 3 clynder..check the f1 code it was injector no 3 its not firing the fuel..check the harness all ok..change the injector from injector 2 to 3 also the same..still injector no 3 its not firing fuel..can it be ECU prob..can somebody help me bout my prob...i have realised that the old owner cut one wire from harness maybe for bypass the exhaust valve but before this when the bike still ok,the wire already been cut..
.really frustared now..already 3 month..and mechanic dont know what else to do...
 

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Welcome.

The p0203 / c34 code is 99% the cause of your cylinder #3 not running. Swapping the injectors was good and eliminated the injector as the issue.

I do have to ask, you did swap the primary injectors (the hard ones to get to on the bottom) not the secondaries (the easy ones to get to on the top) ?

The ECM provides the ground side to trigger the #3 injector over the gray / yellow striped wire. Power is supplied continuously over the yellow / red striped wire. Have you checked that you are getting power to the injector?

Have you checked for continuity of the gray/yellow wire from the injector to the ECM and confirmed that the pin in the ECM socket has not slid back?

There is a way to check for an injector pulse at the injector connector with a meter or trouble light, but I have never needed to do it but I'm sure you can find the procedure online.

I everything else is good, and you don't get a pulse at the injector connector, you are down to a bad ECM. I don't remember reading about an ECM failing this way but there is always the first.

Swapping your ECM into another bike would answer that question quickly.

(Also, I moved your thread to the tech section)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ive already check the pulse from ecm to injector no 3..the harness seem look like all were conected..it means the harness wire still give signal rite to the injector..ive also already change not one injector but whole trotlebody + the whole injector from my friend bike..but still the same,detect P0203 error code injector no 3 malfuntion..my friend bike dont have any issues and all ok..just pity, i already try swap my Friend ECM,but cant start,cant read my fuel pump not running..maybe couse the immobilizer i think..do u think It must be the ECM issue cause this problem bro?..i dont have any idea already..now my last chance and hope try to search online who want to sell ECM second hand plus the ignition immobilizer key..if chnge and still got that issue,i think this bike can throw in the shit hole..😂😂😂😂...

by the way,thks for the sharing bro...if got any idea for this kind of issue,please tell me ok bro..
 

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How about swapping your ECM into your friend's bike?

Sorry, don't know much about the immobilizer system as they are not used in the U.S. I thought the key code was checked by the immobilizer box, not the ECM but I also see the Brit bikes take a -21H50 ECM and most of the US uses the -21H60 I just don't know.

I do know that an ignition error in a US bike does let the bike crank, but does not let the ECM turn on the fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yes exactly,still can crank but cant start the bike..because the fuel pump didnt prime when i try to swap my friend ECM..my friend ECM is B type..mine is A type..is it probly i just buy the same Type of my ECM..can that be issue with the fuel pump to get priming..mine is 21h50..
 

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John's #2 post is really good. This expands on things there and elsewhere.

Where is the OP located? I don't recognize the flag. P0203 will never appear unless you have SDS. Do you? What will appear on the cluster in dealer mode is C34, which the service manual associates with P0203.

It sounds like you and your friend both have immobilizer bikes as 32920-21H50 is an immobilizer ECM. There is no immobilizer box. The RF code sensing is done by the ECM. If you swap ECMs, the new ECM will probably recognize your key and refuse to start. There's a workaround. First, take your key to a locksmith and have a new non-immobilizer key cut to match it. That should be cheap and easy. Then tape the top of your friend's key to the plastic head of the ignition switch and turn the switch on with your non-immobilizer key. The new key will provide the mechanical portion of the key lock and your friend's key, with his ECM, ought to provide the RF portion.

Swapping the injectors is the standard thing to do but swapping the entire throttle body is a step beyond that, though it runs afoul of differences between things like the secondary throttle position sensor. Swapping injectors requires removing the screws that mount the fuel rail and they are prone to getting stuck - it seems to be from corrosion between the screw plating and the TB . Things are easy once they're out. You ought to make sure that your screws aren't stuck and deal with them if they are. A small amount of antiseize and/or some low strength threadlock on assembly helps.

John's comment about checking the injector pulse at the connector is intriguing. The injector coil resistance is about 12 ohms so they draw about an amp when turned on. There are lots of LEDs available that draw 20 mA or less. Putting one across the injector while connected will add only a minor extra load. They turn on so quickly that you ought to be able to see it flashing as the injector operates. You just need a resistor in series with the LED that is appropriate for its voltage. For example an LED rated at 20 mA and 2 V will need a (12 -2)/.02 = 500 ohm resistor. Pay attention to polarity. The anode/positive lead connects to the Y/R lead. I've never done it but it ought to work.
 

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It looks like a plain 12v test light works great for checking the injector pulse from the ECM.

 

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I'd forgotten but I have a spare 12V/12 mA blue LED left over from building a fan bypass. No resistor needed. Give me several days and I'll give it a shot. I wonder if there are any inductive issues that might damage the LED. We'll find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks my bro billy..yes im using sds that detect P0203 error..about the swapin ECM,yeah really good idea..why i didnt think of that..thanks again....really helpful..i will try that cloning the key idea...

and another question,if i bought anothr one ECM same type is it probaly the bike can be start or it will stil got the immobilizer issue..cause i think i want to buy another ECM if my ECM have prob..can i buy just the ECM or must buy including ignition key to get it start..cause i already deal with this seller and he say the it can be bought without the ignition but the ECM must removed the immobilizer first..than can be used..is it correct?..i afraid if i buy it will still cant be start the bike..

by the way thanks for helping you guys..really appreciate...here in malaysia suzuki gsxr parts really hard to get cause the factory already close here..thats why dont have any good mechanic for gsxr here..
 

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Yes that is a good idea that billv had cloning the key only.

As a second thought, do you have anyone reasonably close that can flash the ECM? I'm guessing they can deactivate the immobilizer function at the same time they do the other common fixes.
 
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SDS is much more powerful than dealer mode but almost no one has it. I have it with the version 19 software, which supports up to K8 1000's. But the software versions extend to at least v28, maybe v40. I bought an Asus Eee mini-laptop that allows me to put it and the SDS box in a backpack and log up to 15 minutes of data (as I recall) while riding. The logged data is then saved and I've written a program to convert the saved file to something that Excel or a plotting routine like Kst can read. In addition to the standard data, the file includes data that is not mentioned in the SDS documentation and appears to be ignition advance and injector duration. This capability is similar to but cruder than what the major race teams use but didn't cost nearly as much.

As I understand it, the security in the ECM can be set to Immobilizer, Resistor, or None via a flash. Turning it off is fine for a race bike but seriously compromises a street bike's security.

You can buy another ECM but it's something of a mess as the ignition key must match the ECM if it's an immobilizer model and the key operates the gas tank and rear compartment locks in addition to the ignition switch. So you need to either buy a new matched set of locks with the ECM or be prepared to deal with the mismatches. A good locksmith can rekey the locks and there are companies that can get a key to match an immobilizer ECM. But it's expensive. In general you should only buy an immobilizer ECM if it comes with a mated key. If you have an ECM and mated key, you can buy a blank immobilizer key, cut it to match your existing key and copy the RF information to the new key.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
hi billy...bro,i already test the method that u teach me..cloning the key..still cannot start the bike..still the same issue..the fuel pump its not priming...and about the SDS tool..i didnt have the SDS tool like u mention about..but i bought Healtech suzuki SDS tool,im using healtech that i can trace the P0203 error code..but can Healtech sds tool can disable the ECM immobilizer..coz now im almost finish dealing with this guy from poland to buy just the ECM..im afraid it not even worth it to buy the ECM if the immobilizer issue cant start the bike..now i dunno what is causing the engine running 3clynder..all already check double check..now just the ECM only i dont know is it the ECM or something else..its little bit easier if have somebody here in malaysia can flash the ECU n disable the immobilizer..then i will not regret that im buying another ecu..bro billy..do u have other method which can help me..really im thinking the end of the road already..yesterday go to workshop and see my bike already put a side coz the mechanic dont know what to do and he also hope me can find a way to fix it..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
and another thing..if i must buy something like software or hardware which can help me to test the ecm or flashing my ecm..what software or hardware can help me to settle this prob..already buy 2,3 things which its not for me using daily like the healtech obd tool,if i were workshop then i probaly need to buy this kind of tool and can use it for making business...but im buying just to settle this prob..now the healtech its useles to me cause my prob still cant be settled also...try to reset,try evrything the software provide but still not helping me to settle this error..just help me for the error code only..wasting money...please help to my all bro gixxer regarding my bike issue..
 

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I built a tester from a 12 V / 12 mA blue LED, some wire, and some sewing needles. I inserted the needles past the insulation on an injector connector and started the bike. The LED immediately started flashing brightly. I consider this a great tool to cut through the crap about whether the ECM is pulsing an injector. You just need to be sure that the polarity is right and that the needles are touching the contacts.

The LED was the VCC LTH5MM12VFR4600. It's available in the US from Mouser and Digikey for about a dollar. There's also a red, yellow, green, and white version.
 

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@billv are you jumping across the two injector wires with the LED?
 

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Yes. I removed the connector so that I could more easily start the needles between the connector body and the wire seals. Then I put it back on and pushed the needles in as far as I could. Anode (+) to Y/R and cathode (-) to the other. I'd think that it should also work with the ignition coils. I'm more concerned about inductive effects there but the peak ratings on the diode's data sheet suggest that it may survive. However the 80 V peak voltage mentioned in the service manual is scary.

P.S. I didn't expect it but there may be some significant inductive effects at the injectors too. See around 0:55 here. My simple LED had no problems during the brief time that I tried it (the specs suggest that it will survive 100 V pulses). Unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope. It's possible to build a circuit with a lower voltage LED, two resistors, a diode, and a zener diode that should protect the LED against voltage spikes in either direction. But I don't have the parts on hand.
 
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