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GSXR 600 2005, Melted R/R plug and now won’t prime fuel

249 Views 17 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  peter079, 
Cammy110
2
Hello

was out riding last week, maybe 10 minutes max. When my bike dash completely shut off, I increased the throttle to which the bike coughed and spluttered like it was out of fuel (I had just filled it up). It died completely. Managed to wheel off to the side of the rode. Turned it off and back on again the dash sprung into life but the bike would only crank and wouldn’t start. The dash was now displaying the “CHEC”.

Got it back in my garage and realised when you turn the key my alarm wasn’t going off and the fuel pump wasn’t priming. Kick stand up, in neutral, switch in run. All the usual but the bike would not prime. It would turn over no problem but nothing else. Stripped all the fairings down and found this


R/R melted on the harness side and the two plugs also welded together. chopped it all out and purchased a MOSFET R/R. Did all the tests on the stator and that is all good. Checked all the fuses with a fluke and they all check out. Bike still doesn’t run.

checked the fuel pump relay. It is getting the correct voltages to it. Y/B to the ECU is good. But still nothing. I ran abit of wire from the relay Y/B to the negative battery and relay and pump spring into life.

so then I’m thinking has the ECU been fired when the R/R has failed. Potentially in overvolts way. I’ve been belling out all the cables I can. Completely unwrapped the loom to check everything possible.
Ignition works correctly
Kill switch functions correctly

everything was pointing to the ECU not sending the correct Earth signal to the fuel pump relay to let everything work. I went and purchased a second hand ECU from eBay. Plugged it in and still the same situation.
I’ve had my battery on a tender and it charges to about 11.9v/12. Dropped to about 11 when I’ve had the bike switched on for more that a few minutes doing my tests.

could the battery be just not giving enough voltage to the ECU for it the work. I’m thinking is there some sort of minimum voltage required for the ECU to function correctly.

any help or guidance would
Be greatly appreciated. Im not afraid to get stuck in but this is testing my patience. This is the sorry state she is in at the moment and losing my mind.
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rv6john
Welcome to the forum.

Yes, it sounds like a bad battery. You might check the battery voltage while you run the starter. A good battery will stay above 10.5 volts.

From your description it sounds like the charging system stopped working due to the bad connections and killed the battery. I doubt it hurt the ECM.
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Cammy110
Hi John. Thanks for getting back to me.
I did read it was rare for the ECU to blow and what are the odds that the second one I have purchased and tried is also dead. Unlikely one would think. Going to buy a new battery tomorrow. When cranking it drops below 10.

just hoping the ECU requires the input voltage to be above a certain value.
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rv6john
I seem to remember some comments that the ECM gets very unhappy less than 9 volts and yet the starter will still crank the engine.

Some of the K4-K5 ECMs do have problems with age. As I recall, everything seems fine but it does not actuate the fuel pump.

Otherwise, the cheap Chinese/Ebay R/Rs have fried a number of ECMs. They fail in over voltage state. The OEM or other good R/Rs either pop and short out taking out the main fuse and stopping the bike or just stop charging.
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Ozsyd600
Given the state of the connection between stator and R/R, and your description of what happened immediately prior to the bike shutting off, my guess is that your charging system was not working due to high resistance in the connector which in turn let the battery run very flat.

I would start with a new fully charged battery and go from there.

Have you checked all the fuses with a multimeter? It’s worth a shot whilst you are topping off the new battery before you fit it.
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Cammy110
Ozsyd600 said:
Given the state of the connection between stator and R/R, and your description of what happened immediately prior to the bike shutting off, my guess is that your charging system was not working due to high resistance in the connector which in turn let the battery run very flat.

I would start with a new fully charged battery and go from there.

Have you checked all the fuses with a multimeter? It’s worth a shot whilst you are topping off the new battery before you fit it.
Click to expand...
yep checked all the fuses with a multimeter and they all check out. Say a new battery doesn’t fix it. Any idea what direction to take then?
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Cammy110
Update. Kind of

Got a new battery today and hooked it up and still the same situation.

was looking around for a pin out for the ECU but couldn’t seem to find one.
Got my multimeter on the fuses and are all good either side of them.

I then looked at the power going into the ECU with the ecu disconnected And it went as follows:

(32pin plug)
Pin 6(black/green) = 5v
Pin 16(red/blue) = 12.6v
Pin 21(orange/yellow) = 12.6v

(26pin plug)
Pin 5(yellow/black) = 12.6v
Pin 11(yellow) = 12.6v
Pin 12(black) = 12.6v
Pin 13(white/blue) = 12.6v
Pin 22(white/green) = 12.6v
Pin 26(green) = 12.6v

also went along and did continuity checks to Earth and they went as follows

(32pin plug)
Pin 16( red/blue) = 4.15ohms
Pin 34(black/white) = 0.15ohms

(26pin plug)
Pin 19(black/white) = 0.12ohms
Pin 20(blue) = 2.14 ohms
Pin 23(black/white) = 0.12 ohms
Pin 24(black/white) = 0.12ohms
Pin 25(black/white) = 0.12ohms


Really stuck with where to go next apart from belling out each individual cable or the second ECU I have picked up from eBay is also dead. Thanks in advance for any help guys and girls
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Ozsyd600
You can try this service manual and see if there is a wiring diagram with the info you need:

Free Suzuki GSX R 600 2004 Service Manual workshop service manual!

Workshop Service Manual for a Suzuki GSX R 600 2004 Service Manual, free download from carlsalter.com
www.carlsalter.com

It’s for the k4 600 which is same as your bike.
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Ozsyd600
Is the alarm OEM or aftermarket?

Could that have anything to do with your problem?
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Cammy110
Ozsyd600 said:
Is the alarm OEM or aftermarket?

Could that have anything to do with your problem?
Click to expand...
The alarm was aftermarket which I have now removed. I did trace each wire back to the point of where it had been spliced into the loom and removed the alarm wire and repaired the location it was tapped into.

the bike was behaving the same with the alarm still fitted so I don’t think that was the problem. But I removed it so it was one less thing to think about.

im absolutely stumped on what to do next
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P
So when you are cranking the bike, CHEC is still ON?
That's not a good sign.

I see you have tested all the ground wires from ECU back to Battery -ve and it looks like they are all good.

Can you get rid of CHEC and display FI or temperture on the dash?
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Cammy110
peter079 said:
So when you are cranking the bike, CHEC is still ON?
That's not a good sign.

I see you have tested all the ground wires from ECU back to Battery -ve and it looks like they are all good.

Can you get rid of CHEC and display FI or temperture on the dash?
Click to expand...
Hi Peter,

I can’t get rid of the CHEC light. When cranking or anything else the CHEC light remains
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P
That's not a good sign.

The only other thing I can think of is to test for 12.6v at the O/G wire (O/W for U.S) pin 17 at the ECU
to Ground. With everything turned ON, you should have 12.6 there.
If you have 12.6v there but CHEC remains, then I can only say that it's a bad ECU.
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Cammy110
peter079 said:
That's not a good sign.

The only other thing I can think of is to test for 12.6v at the O/G wire (O/W for U.S) pin 17 at the ECU
to Ground. With everything turned ON, you should have 12.6 there.
If you have 12.6v there but CHEC remains, then I can only say that it's a bad ECU.
Click to expand...
from what I can see on the wiring diagram that pin 17 goes to a white plug.

just been out to the bike and pin17(O/G) with ecu plugged in and everything in the run configuration I’m getting 0V
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P
Yeah the O/G wire at the ECU should have 12.6v (O/G to Ground) in the run configuration.
(Eg. Kick stand up/ or in Neutral, Key ON. Kill switch ON).
If no, then you have bad connection somewhere.

The white plug you are talking about is the dealer mode connector. You can test for 12.6v
here too. It has it's own O/G wire.
But if you are not getting any voltage in any of these locations, then you have a bad connection somewhere.
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Cammy110
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peter079 said:
Yeah the O/G wire at the ECU should have 12.6v (O/G to Ground) in the run configuration.
(Eg. Kick stand up/ or in Neutral, Key ON. Kill switch ON).
If no, then you have bad connection somewhere.

The white plug you are talking about is the dealer mode connector. You can test for 12.6v
here too. It has it's own O/G wire.
But if you are not getting any voltage in any of these locations, then you have a bad connection somewhere.
Click to expand...
Peter you diamond. Don’t know why this wasn’t obvious but I finally ran a cable with power to pin 17 and she sprung into life.

think the problem has started from the R/R melting and I think rather than short any fuses or anything it has blown my aftermarket alarm(datatool).

so I chopped all of the alarm out of it but somehow didn’t see that pin 17 was no longer getting power.

for anyone’s future reference, if you have an aftermarket alarm this could well blow first before any fuse or anything when the R/R melts.

replace the R/R with a mosfet and everything is now good again. I’ve replaced any spliced cables with new bullet connectors. Thank you all for all of your help. I was about 5 mins from calling it a day and sending it to a shop. So I thank you all for that.

few pics for reference. The O/W out of the fuel pump relay wasn’t connect to pin 17 of the ECU. That how my alarm must of split the connection and made it once you pressed the button to disarm it. Seems so simple now it’s all working. That also isn’t have I have ran the new wire it ha that’s what I used to get it to work again. it’s got all new bullet connectors and it’s all neat and tidy.

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Yellow Submarine
Alarm systems are the bane of my existence. I’ve seen so many alarms malfunction or fry and disable a vehicle (cars and bikes) that my immediate thought when I see one is that it is the culprit behind the no start condition.

One of my neighbors has a GM F body disabled right now because of issues with the OEM alarm system. After market ones are as bad, and sometimes worse. I would consider without hard evidence to confirm that the charging system issue/battery condition to be caused by said alarm.

I have a bone stock 04 600. The only thing changed in the electrical system from new is turn signals and battery. Even then, it is on its 3rd battery from new nearly 20 years ago. I replaced it the last time with a Shorai. Never had issue with the OEM RR.
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P
Ahh Nice! You found the problem.

I am guessing there is still a wire which was cut for the alarm and has not been replaced.
Or, on some UK models, there is a black box with a metallic bridge inside that joins the two
terminals and is required for the ecu to get power. Perhaps this bridge was removed by the
installer.

Anyway, I guess you can run your own wire from the O/W. Just make sure it's good quality
wire and you have good connections, preferably soldered.
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