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This is RECOMMENDATION for break-in period. I don't want to believe Suzuki made it mandatory. It is too naggy. Also they should keep mileage in ECU non-volatile memory for do this.
Well, the OP will find out if they can rev higher ... after 1,000 miles, maybe ... if it is running OK now, seems fine to me. Suzuki are obligated to warrant their engines. 12krpm is a hellishly high engine speed for anything, so why wouldn't they restrict it on low miles? Makes sense to me if they did. No-one has any good reason to be finding out if it can red line at 400 miles.

I am only expressing a view. OP can do what they like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Hm. It is unusual behavior. Does it return to 12k max rev if you'll close the cap?
So it can range from different rpm at times it so weird. Bu
Ok. Lets wait to the nearest future. Not so far to 1000 miles.
Yea I’ll give a update once I hit 1k miles hopefully soon! But also more updates when just cruising and I let off where it won’t go more it seems to be back firing a little bit more than usual.
 

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Yea I was driving it during the day and filled it up with gas since I was almost out and then this happened. Thinking it’s just gonna back to the shop tired of this.
In that case, getting worse after a fill, IMHO could be a strong candidate for a case of dirty fuel. Adding fuel mixed up the residues in the bottom that got ingested into the fuel system.

Also possible those two things are unrelated. Or over-revving caused the other. 🤷‍♂️

Good luck with all of that. Hope it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
In that case, getting worse after a fill, IMHO could be a strong candidate for a case of dirty fuel. Adding fuel mixed up the residues in the bottom that got ingested into the fuel system.

Also possible those two things are unrelated. Or over-revving caused the other. 🤷‍♂️

Good luck with all of that. Hope it works out.
Really dirty fuel? That’s weird because that gas station never gave my car problems “which is a performance car”.
 

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Really dirty fuel? That’s weird because that gas station never gave my car problems “which is a performance car”.
Not sure you read my post, maybe?

If there was aged gunk in the bottom of the tank it'd have stayed there for the most part. When you dolloped in a pile more gas, it'd have lifted it up and circulated it into the fuel. You then rode away before it had a chance to settle back down again to the bottom.

This is just a 'possibility', but if you did not remove and drain the tank, and swill it around a bit and empty it out of the filler when you got it, it is not an impossibility.

Could be none of that, of course, I could be totally wrong, but if you are after friendly options and thoughts on your issue via a computer screen words and people thousands of miles away, I think it is a fair suggestion to offer you a little help with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Not sure you read my post, maybe?

If there was aged gunk in the bottom of the tank it'd have stayed there for the most part. When you dolloped in a pile more gas, it'd have lifted it up and circulated it into the fuel. You then rode away before it had a chance to settle back down again to the bottom.

This is just a 'possibility', but if you did not remove and drain the tank, and swill it around a bit and empty it out of the filler when you got it, it is not an impossibility.

Could be none of that, of course, I could be totally wrong, but if you are after friendly options and thoughts on your issue via a computer screen words and people thousands of miles away, I think it is a fair suggestion to offer you a little help with.
No I appreciate the help definitely helps me with everything. Also update just got home from work and took the bike for a spin and it’s acted way better than before. I did lift the tank up to make sure I didn’t pinch any lines.
 

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IMPORTANT UPDATE: Tried taking the bike to work and wouldn’t even cruise over 5k rpm. Definitely NOT a break In mode.
I think that is enough to propose the lack of fuel caused by contaminating fuel filter or fuel pump going off duty. Take a look inside the tank for rust or any waste. And check for fuel flow and pressure will be a good for begining I think
 

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Your butterfly valves/throttle body might not be opening fully. Had this issue and just removed them completely. Issue gone.
So,???, what are you suggesting, just remove the throttle body completely and just have intake ports open to air?

How does the fuel get in, then?

Sorry, I am not understanding what you're saying.
 

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So,???, what are you suggesting, just remove the throttle body completely and just have intake ports open to air?

How does the fuel get in, then?

Sorry, I am not understanding what you're saying.
Sorry, I am late to the party here, if this has been covered just tell me to sit down.

No, he is referring to removing just the plates on the secondaries I think. It has worked in some cases but I think the rust is the issue you need to deal with.

I’d start with doing a fuel volume & pressure test per the manual to check the pump’s health.

Pull the fuel pump and clean both filters. The intake sock at the end and gently back flush the pump housing - there is a high pressure filter inside. Clean out the tank and run some Seafoam through it.

See if that improves performance. I don’t know if injectors have been discussed but give a possibility of a dirty fuel they may be plugging up.
 
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"... butterfly valves/throttle body .... just removed them completely."

vague at best, and the secondaries are there for a very precise reason. Does one also get rid of the secondary injectors too, then?

Sure, if they are not actuating cleanly, but would that not flag an error message?
 

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Remove air box to expose butterflies and while engine running in Neutral rev past 8000, if your butterflies don’t open fully, replace the stva, or unscrew and remove the plates for a quick fix. Also, check kick stand excessive play. Aggressive riding could cause kick stand to flop around and engage kill switch.
 
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