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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I am new on bikes. I have Gsxr 600 k9.
Two weeks ago i had a problem. My bike was running fine 30 mins but when i gave full throttle on first gear on launch, suddenly bike starting dying and somehow i managed to came back back home on low rpm. But after reaching home when i tried to turn on the bike, it did turned on normally but after about 5 minutes it died again..
I took it to mechanic and he found that battery was fully drained and stator is burnt (can be seen in pic)
293078
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Now he is saying that he charged the battery and replaced the stator but bike still dying when he goes for test run whereas on idle its fine.
He is asking me to replace the ECU with complete wiring and immobilizer system.


Need help as i doubt that hes false claiming just to make money.. i have read lot of thread but none of them mentioned that such type of problem is related to an ECU!!!

NOTE: THERE ISN'T ANY ERROR CODE ASWELL. ITS SHOWING "C00" ON CLUSTER.
 

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Welcome. I would take the bike elsewhere, it seems like the mechanic just wants to throw parts at it.

So what happens after it dies? Have you checked the side stand to make sure it is staying fully up and holding the safety switch firmly pressed?
 

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It's been my observation that stator windings normally fail in groups of three. Yours is unusual in that respect.

Generally the things that fail are the stator, stator-to-R/R connector, the R/R, and the R/R-to-wiring harness connector. You'll see overheated/burned contacts on the connectors. The service manual shows how to test the R/R. But you'll need a multimeter and it's not clear that you have the necessary skills. An alternative is to buy a cheap miniature digital voltmeter, there are several on ebay for under $5, and tape it to the triple clamp with leads back to the dealer mode connector (O/G and B/W on an immobilizer model). In that way you can constantly monitor the voltage while you're trying to sort this out. I'd prefer one that measures to .01 V but the cheap ones that come in a case only measure to .1 V. I guess that's what to expect for $5.

ECM's can fail but they're fairly robust. C00 means that the ECM is communicating with the cluster. Wiring can also go bad, but that's normally from a crash or abuse. Do you see any frayed, bare, or otherwise damaged wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome. I would take the bike elsewhere, it seems like the mechanic just wants to throw parts at it.

So what happens after it dies? Have you checked the side stand to make sure it is staying fully up and holding the safety switch firmly pressed?
Am also thinking to take back. Whatever the issue with ECU is, that can be reaolved rather than replacing while system..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's been my observation that stator windings normally fail in groups of three. Yours is unusual in that respect.

Generally the things that fail are the stator, stator-to-R/R connector, the R/R, and the R/R-to-wiring harness connector. You'll see overheated/burned contacts on the connectors. The service manual shows how to test the R/R. But you'll need a multimeter and it's not clear that you have the necessary skills. An alternative is to buy a cheap miniature digital voltmeter, there are several on ebay for under $5, and tape it to the triple clamp with leads back to the dealer mode connector (O/G and B/W on an immobilizer model). In that way you can constantly monitor the voltage while you're trying to sort this out. I'd prefer one that measures to .01 V but the cheap ones that come in a case only measure to .1 V. I guess that's what to expect for $5.

ECM's can fail but they're fairly robust. C00 means that the ECM is communicating with the cluster. Wiring can also go bad, but that's normally from a crash or abuse. Do you see any frayed, bare, or otherwise damaged wires?
I must appreciate your detailed reply. Actually am from Pakistan. Here there isnt as such any professional mechanic and they also dont have proper diagnostic tools. What they do is just replace the parts instead of digging out the root cause.
I will take back the bike and let the ECU and other wiring checked as you mentioned.
 

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If it was my bike.l, I would charge the battery and start the bike. Measure voltage at battery at idle. It should be around the 14V mark. Increase revs slowly and watch the voltage. If the voltage is still 14 to 15.5V at 5000rpm, the charging system is working.

It is possible that your r/r has been replaced with a cheap part before and that has failed in over voltage mode. If that’s the case the voltage will increase as you rev the bike. Stop before you exceed 16V. If this has happened, it is necessary to replace the r/r with a high quality one and also possible that the ECM has died and needs replacing.

All you need is an Allen key to remove the riders seat and a digital voltmeter to do the tests.




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Discussion Starter #8
UPDATE:
I replaced rectifier and stator with new one. For almost 50 kms bike ran smoothly but after 4 days of rest it didn't start and completely died.
 

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Do you have a battery charger suitable for a motorcycle battery? If so charge the battery fully.

You really do need a digital multimeter to do the necessary tests to see what is wrong with the bike.


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^ What Ozsy said. Charge the battery and check the charging voltage.
 
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