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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all,
Asking for a friend:
If you have done valve clearance check/adjustment?
Is/Was it doable with the motor in the frame? I'd like to believe/think it is?

I'm hoping that they are in fact in spec, thus not having to pull the cams, etc. And yes, I have done cams, built whole motors, etc. But it runs fantanstic, this is routine maintenance- now juist over 25K.

For those that have- how do you see the cam ends, when the frame is right there in the way from seeing it end on?
Can you still see the timing marks to re-time it once it's ready to go back together? Assuming I am going to have to re-shim some.

TIA

first I moved it where we can still pull 2 SUV's in the garage.- I don't like brushing snow/scraping windshield in the morning.


Then put an electric space heater, to bring it up to 55F in there.- not too bad with sweatshirts/hat on. I know there are better space heater options, It's all I gots.


Started in, it's so much easier after you've hade the plastics off a time or two



Then, after a short time, done for now


Seriously, those that have performed this task, is it doable in the frame- right? :| :wink
 

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Hi there
I have the same bike and have done it in the frame, bit pain the azz if you have to remove to cams n chain to get the shims
25k Kms or miles?

Sent from my Redmi Note 7 using Tapatalk
 

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All the valve adjustments I have ever done were with the engine in the bike. The Suzuki service manual takes you step by step. Make sure you have a good readable (mm measurement) set of feeler gauges (I used craftsman ones sold at Lowes). Make sure you have the correct snug fitting Allen socket for your crank cover, and slowly turn it. If it does not budge just a heat gun to only head the threading, not the HEX insert or it will strip. Then top dead center for every cylinder. A light drag on each gauge is what you want. Suzuki recommend 15k, but I have completed them at 30K. It just depends on your oil and how hard you are on the motors. Slower rider will spin the rpms up less causing less wear on the cam lobes and buckets vs an aggressive rider/track rider. If your already there then at least checking the gap is fine, but if the sheet says your within spec don't touch them unless you have issues like poor starting, poor power, or cannot start the motorcycle when hot. The shims can be purchased in a kit or individually, and when you replace the shim always put the writing up and away from the valve stem. The cams can be read from the left and right side. Just make sure your at TDC then do one cam, zip tie it in place, then do the other. You might get lucky and not have to remove the cam chain tensioner. Make sure your original gaskets are free of oil including all mating surfaces then slowly put everything back together. Do a couple slow turns then try to start it. If it sounds terrible you didn't get the timing right and have to re install the cams.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
All the valve adjustments I have ever done were with the engine in the bike. The Suzuki service manual takes you step by step. Make sure you have a good readable (mm measurement) set of feeler gauges (I used craftsman ones sold at Lowes). Make sure you have the correct snug fitting Allen socket for your crank cover, and slowly turn it. If it does not budge just a heat gun to only head the threading, not the HEX insert or it will strip. Then top dead center for every cylinder. A light drag on each gauge is what you want. Suzuki recommend 15k, but I have completed them at 30K. It just depends on your oil and how hard you are on the motors. Slower rider will spin the rpms up less causing less wear on the cam lobes and buckets vs an aggressive rider/track rider. If your already there then at least checking the gap is fine, but if the sheet says your within spec don't touch them unless you have issues like poor starting, poor power, or cannot start the motorcycle when hot. The shims can be purchased in a kit or individually, and when you replace the shim always put the writing up and away from the valve stem. The cams can be read from the left and right side. Just make sure your at TDC then do one cam, zip tie it in place, then do the other. You might get lucky and not have to remove the cam chain tensioner. Make sure your original gaskets are free of oil including all mating surfaces then slowly put everything back together. Do a couple slow turns then try to start it. If it sounds terrible you didn't get the timing right and have to re install the cams.
Thanks, and yep, I agree with all you said.

It runs like a raped monkey- especially eith the non ethanol Premium thats hard to get a round here, like 25+ miles away!
Never had a problem starting, never misses a beat!

Danny1000- miles
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Also,
Do you have to move/remove the throttle bodies?
I have moved them when I installed my manual CCT. This will also give me a chance to see what the tension on the CC is, since I installed it with the method of not removing the valve cover.
 

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All the valve adjustments I have ever done were with the engine in the bike. The Suzuki service manual takes you step by step. Make sure you have a good readable (mm measurement) set of feeler gauges (I used craftsman ones sold at Lowes). Make sure you have the correct snug fitting Allen socket for your crank cover, and slowly turn it. If it does not budge just a heat gun to only head the threading, not the HEX insert or it will strip. Then top dead center for every cylinder. A light drag on each gauge is what you want. Suzuki recommend 15k, but I have completed them at 30K. It just depends on your oil and how hard you are on the motors. Slower rider will spin the rpms up less causing less wear on the cam lobes and buckets vs an aggressive rider/track rider. If your already there then at least checking the gap is fine, but if the sheet says your within spec don't touch them unless you have issues like poor starting, poor power, or cannot start the motorcycle when hot. The shims can be purchased in a kit or individually, and when you replace the shim always put the writing up and away from the valve stem. The cams can be read from the left and right side. Just make sure your at TDC then do one cam, zip tie it in place, then do the other. You might get lucky and not have to remove the cam chain tensioner. Make sure your original gaskets are free of oil including all mating surfaces then slowly put everything back together. Do a couple slow turns then try to start it. If it sounds terrible you didn't get the timing right and have to re install the cams.
+1
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies.

I also have an online downloaded Suzuki shop manual for it also. I've read the sections several times.
 

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Something that doesn't seem to be widely known is that, though the parts fiche suggests otherwise, the Suzuki shims are available in .025 mm (.001") increments. The part numbers (and the Honda equivalents) go like this:
12892-05C00-155 Shim, Tappet (T:1.55) (alternative: Honda #14915-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-158 Shim, Tappet (T:1.575) (alternative: Honda #14916-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-160 Shim, Tappet (T:1.60) (alternative: Honda #14917-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-162 Shim, Tappet (T:1.625) (alternative: Honda #14918-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-165 Shim, Tappet (T:1.65) (alternative: Honda #14919-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-168 Shim, Tappet (T:1.675) (alternative: Honda #14920-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-170 Shim, Tappet (T:1.70) (alternative: Honda #14921-KT7-013)

I hope that you can figure out from that how the other pn's run.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Something that doesn't seem to be widely known is that, though the parts fiche suggests otherwise, the Suzuki shims are available in .025 mm (.001") increments. The part numbers (and the Honda equivalents) go like this:
12892-05C00-155 Shim, Tappet (T:1.55) (alternative: Honda #14915-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-158 Shim, Tappet (T:1.575) (alternative: Honda #14916-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-160 Shim, Tappet (T:1.60) (alternative: Honda #14917-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-162 Shim, Tappet (T:1.625) (alternative: Honda #14918-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-165 Shim, Tappet (T:1.65) (alternative: Honda #14919-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-168 Shim, Tappet (T:1.675) (alternative: Honda #14920-KT7-013)
12892-05C00-170 Shim, Tappet (T:1.70) (alternative: Honda #14921-KT7-013)

I hope that you can figure out from that how the other pn's run.
Thanks Bill,

When I get some measurements, I'll look into it further.
 
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