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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I will be checking out the CKP tomorrow and following up, I’m guessing that I can find it under the timing cover then?
 

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Do the tests with the multimeter first, according to the manual. Manipulate the wires while doing
the tests. See what you get. Also check the connections at the ecu. (as stated by rv6john).

CKP is protected fairly well because it is hidden behind the starter clutch gear (this needs to be removed). I'm not sure how bad the crash was, that's why I'm leaning towards the wiring.
Unless there's metal particles on the sensor (workshop manual says this), or the sensor is just failing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
So here’s the latest, I replaced the CKP sensor today, bike starts and runs fine, also took the power commander off so we can rule that out of the issue. But the bike is still shutting off on me, I’m posting this video showing the tach and how the bike will restart without power cycling the bike and without using the kill switch, I think my battery is starting to die, I am aware of that but I don’t think that is the issue. Sorry for the shitty video but thanks for everyone’s help.

 

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Is that the fuel pump re-priming at 0:35? I couldn't hear that in the previous videos. Maybe cause
you had the fan going.

It's like something is turning off and quickly turning back on, before the ecu can register it?
If it was a broken wiring somewhere, I would expect the bike to stay off a lot longer
or permanently.

I can hear the fuel pump re-prime, but the tacho doesn't sweep. When you kill the bike
with the "kill switch", and then turn switch back on (within half a second), what happens? Do you get the fuel pump prime and tacho sweep? I'm just trying eliminate this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Yes, that is the fuel pump, and yes if I use the kill switch, the tach does it’s sweep and the fuel pump reprimes
 

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Wow, strange.

Does is finally shut off after you ended the video?

The battery does sound weak. I did not hear the fan running before.

Does the bike turn off soon after the fan is running?

What can happen with a weak battery is that the charging system at idle is not capable of producing much power so when the fan kicks on it drops the system voltage below what the ECM needs and it stops working.
 
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I cut the video down from what I posted, after the second start up the bike ran for a good 10-15 minutes before I shut the bike off because I didn’t want to bore you guys with the footage lol

I did just recently replace the battery with a new one a few weeks ago but maybe it’s weak from all the restarting I’ve been doing? The fan does kick on at about 185 degree if I remember correctly. It does kick on at temp like it’s supposed to but maybe it needs the correct 220 degree temp sensor?
 

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What rpm is the idle set at again? Should be around 1200 rpm + .
 

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That sucks.

Do you know anyone with the same bike, or a 750, that you can swap the ECM with?

I'm out of guesses but I'm wondering if the ECM is failing when it gets hot. Most of the time when it does this, there are other indications but you don't seem to have them.
 

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I think he had a fan going in the garage(that's what I was referring to), in the first videos, so i couldn't hear the fuel pump.

The fuel pump and STVA re-prime after the stall, but the tach doesn't. Could that be a clue?
If you shut the running engine off using the kill switch(not key switch) and turn back on quick(within half a second, don't wait 3 seconds), does it do a sweep? I know I asked this before, but just checking.

I've never heard of a TOS going bad. But if you can locate it, take it off it's bracket and till to +45deg. Does it stall the bike? Does it throw an "FI"? Does it reset on it's own, or do you have to toggle the ignition switch?

Do the kill switch test first, and the TOS second.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Just out of curiosity, there’s a sensor near the battery, any idea what that is for and is there supposed to be a vacuum line connected to it?
 

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Kinda swinging for the fences here, but what are the chances that I have a bad run/stop switch?
Good thought but that should also cause the tach to reboot as it also shuts off power to it as well..
 
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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I think he had a fan going in the garage(that's what I was referring to), in the first videos, so i couldn't hear the fuel pump.

The fuel pump and STVA re-prime after the stall, but the tach doesn't. Could that be a clue?
If you shut the running engine off using the kill switch(not key switch) and turn back on quick(within half a second, don't wait 3 seconds), does it do a sweep? I know I asked this before, but just checking.

I've never heard of a TOS going bad. But if you can locate it, take it off it's bracket and till to +45deg. Does it stall the bike? Does it throw an "FI"? Does it reset on it's own, or do you have to toggle the ignition switch?

Do the kill switch test first, and the TOS second.
The answer your question, the tach does not sweep when hitting the kill switch and within half a second turning it back to run, fuel pump primes but tach does not do a sweep
 

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Yeah, it sounds like you're losing power for about half a second, and then getting it back.

I don't think it's the switches and I don't think it's the ecu. I mean, it could be, but hopefully not.

I would swap out the "ignition fuse" with another one (maybe with one from the lights ) just incase.

I also know there is a Relay next to the fuse box (Relay labelled FE249JR). This is also one of the components that controls power to the ecu....... but it usually doesn't go bad.

Another idea might be to hook up a 12v test light to the ecu feed wire, and monitor it until the bike stalls, to confirm that you are losing power for about half a second. It may mean that you have to keep an eye on the test light for quite a while.

Once you have confirmed that you are losing power to the ecu, then you can start to work
your way backwards through the wiring diagram to find out which component is causing the
problem.
 
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