I recently bought a 2003 GSXR 600 that was wrecked, it basically bent the forks, destoyed the headlight, fairings, radiatior, radiator fan, and cracked the timing case cover, I have replaced everything excluding the headlight and fairings so far. I took it out for about a 35 mile ride, near the end of the ride the bike was shutting off at takeoff from what i believe to be and electrical issue. I have replaced the battery and have tested the stator, and rectifier as best as i know how, Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated!
Update, I checked the stator wires and I sure found a problem. The stator was previously replaced and their wiring was melting and one of the signal wires was even rotted off, so I repaired that but I’m still having an issue with the bike shutting down on me. Stopped at a red light and it shut off, coasting down a curvy hill with the clutch in and it shut down. Still waiting for a new R/R, hoping that is the cause. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Yes, it says chec every time I turn the key up until I hit the run switch, then it goes away for a few minutes and comes back if I don’t start the bike. And yes when I run the bike and shut it down the temp stays on for a few seconds before the CHEC comes back on
So today I was messing around with it after changing the R/R and it continued to shut itself off just sitting in the garage at idle. My voltage was in the High 13V to the low 14V range, Is this normal for being at idle? I continued to check to see if the "CHEC" message came up upon shutting off and it did not. So I ended up bypassing the kickstand switch and it seems as if that's working. I tried a few different time plugging it back in and letting it run and shut off and unplugging and bypassing again and it seems to be working, however I have not taken it for a ride yet.
So today I was messing around with it after changing the R/R and it continued to shut itself off just sitting in the garage at idle. I continued to check to see if the "CHEC" message came up upon shutting off and it did not. So I ended up bypassing the kickstand switch and it seems as if that's working. I tried a few different time plugging it back in and letting it run and shut off and unplugging and bypassing again and it seems to be working, however I have not taken it for a ride yet.
Another Question, What temp should the bike be at? my fan usually kicks on around 180 degrees but i feel like that's low, however i am more familiar with cars rather than bikes.
That sounds neat though, I wish mine was a bit lower temp to come on. I know 220 isn't that bad for a bike, I just like all the help I can get when it comes to engine cooling and if it started 40 degrees sooner, that would be tight.
I dont have any codes, When im riding if i keep the RPMs high it almost seems to missfire but will stay running, if im at low RPM or have the clutch in, it will just flat out shut off.
The engine shut off yes, tach and lights all stayed on and bike still starts back up afterwards. Not sure about the “CHEC” message, will check on that and update
It restarts right away and will run for a few minutes before it starts to do the same thing, time in between varies.
when it did this before I tried letting it cool off and it didn’t seem to make any sort of difference and that’s when Ibypassed the kickstand switch and that seemed to fix the issue
Im going to upload a couple of videos to youtube to try and show you what im dealing with, I thought maybe TPS but i figured any kind of sensor would give me an F1 Code?
Keep in mind that the Airbox is off, which means i have 2 sensors unplugged, which is why the Tach is showing an F1 code, When the airbox is on I have no codes.
The video just shows it is shutting down but you missed an important part and that is what happens in the next 5 seconds on the cluster.
The interesting thing is it is shutting off just sitting there.
It would have been helpful to have a good shot of the cluster as it ran so I could see if this is with the bike cold or hot. From the fast idle speed on the first video it might be cold?
The good thing is that the secondary throttle valves are cycling after the bike shuts down which means the ECM is still powered up and happy. @Chuckster is there any clue here? (2nd vid)
It would also have been helpful if you showed a restart attempt right after it stopped.
So far I'm back to the CKP sensor. Check the connector from it to the harness and also check the plug and pins in the ECM. Be gentle with the ECM connectors, the pins are delicate.
I actually just re-installed the power commander yesterday to see if it was the cause of the issue, and it was not, im planning to connect it to a laptop and try and reset whatever map is on it to a default map if i can. Without the power commander the bike is limited to 8k RPM max which is what made me interested to reinstall in the first place
Can the power commander control the secondary valves? Didn't know that.
You said that you can start the bike up after it stalls. Do you have to cycle the key switch? or
the kill switch? Or can you just press the start button and go?
When the bike stalls, Don't turn the key off or kill switch off. Leave bike On. And recheck
the error codes using dealer mode.
I dont think it controls the valves at all, I think theres something weird with the ECM when the PC is not on the bike causing the governing issue. The bike will start right back up after shutting off. No need to cycle the key or the kill switch. I think it only end up doing it when the bike is hot, or at least its only done it after ive ridden, stopped and went back out on it again. When this happened originally I put the bike in dealer mode to see if that would help and I got no codes, However if it is the CKP is bad or is loosing signal intermittently, from what ive read, wont throw a code unless it looses signal for more than 3 seconds, at least thats what i read in the service manual.
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