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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The nylon protective sleeve. Do you re use that?

I got it flushed x 3.
It was nice Blue. It was slippery- I'm sure it was Glycol based.

I'll be using the stuff I got that's Propylene based- and OK for track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I'm thinking NO. The black protective cover sleeves will hide the blue! LOL

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, I'm almost done with the changover. Working on these bikes that have a huge power plant shoe horned in to these type of frames? Difficult to work on for sure.
ONe of the hose was NOT in the AS3 set? I'm glad I noticed that before I pulled it out. It's the one the runs along the right side of the motor, the small one on top that goes in right under the Rad cap.
The rest fit well. Some of the OEM clamps won't go on the larger diameter of the small hoses. The main ones fits fine.

I'm testing with RO water first, so if it leaks it won't leak my coolant. Besides, just water is also Track day approved LOL.
 
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I didn't notice any black sleeves in the set I got but I haven't opened the clear plastic bag they're in yet because I'm still waiting until the next scheduled coolant change to put them on. I'll take a closer look tomorrow when I go out to the shop. I'm sure AS3 thinks they're important for some reason(s) if they included them but I don't know why that may be.

I did see some reviews mention one hose missing and some others said (if I recall right) that it wasn't part of the pressurized coolant system so wasn't included. Main thing I noticed so far is it surprised me how many hoses there are in the set. I had no idea there were that many on the bike and I still haven't a clue where all of them are at. Going to be a task getting to all of them I'm sure.
 
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I haven't changed out the hoses on my 750 but on the SV I think the AS3 kit for that had all hoses. I can't remember if the SV has those sheaths but I think I know what you're talking about. If it did, I did not use them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the answers!

I filled it with water and did a leak test. The right looked OK, I looked at the left side and Uh-Oh! I had the CS cover off, and had pulled out the clutdh push rid when I cleaned up some. It was leaking Oil out the hole!!
Quickly shut it off and put a bit more oil in - I had just changed it anyways.

Started it again, I found a small drip on that hose that I had pulled off and didn't replace. It's the one just under the hose for the cap line to the overflow reservoir. I guess I had knicked it near the nipple pulling it off. I shut it off again and was able to cut about 14mm off and stick it back on- fixed it.
Oh yeah, those H and L marks on the inside, that you are supposed to be able to see looking under the fairing- kinda hard to see. So I marked it myself on the right so you can see it well with the fairing off too!



After the oil leak and the water drip I was able to get it up to temp again and check for leaks with the cap on so it had pressure too. NO leaks!

And, after my ECU flash, the fan comes on at 200f, and goes off at 195f.



Now after my part time work today, I'll drain the RO water again and add the 50/50 poly mix.
 

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I used my black sleeves, I think they're for wear resistance as the hoses expand / contract & get thrown around in corners the hoses rub against the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OH, for got to mention. When I got the bike's temp high enough to kick the fans on (200f on mine), I had my exam type gloves on and touched the radiator hose on the right where the large right hose wraps around adjacent to the lower right #4 cylinder.

The hose was hot. The cylinder was LESS hot for sure, and the bike's water temp was 200f.

Therefore I'm thinking leaving the sleeve off is OK.
Also, the AS3 hoses are a bit larger outer diameter than the OEM's too, so I didn't think it would even work. I'll hang on to them 'just in case though.

So, for the above reasons, I went sleeveless.

I used my black sleeves, I think they're for wear resistance as the hoses expand / contract & get thrown around in corners the hoses rub against the frame.
'thrown around in corners and rub? OK
 

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Here's what my still unopened set looks like. No nylon sleeves, just hoses & the clamp set. I reckon the sleeves are something AS3 Performance reckons aren't needed for my little 750. Had they been included, I would have put them on (when the next coolant change interval rolls around).

296094
 
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I'd recommend using the sleeves but suit yourself. Yamaha likes to use metal tubes with rubber hoses to make the connections. Interesting idea but it means twice as many joints. The K5/K6 1000 coolant level inspection window is hard to use. This is particularly true in my case as I use Zerex G-05, which is amber colored. I found that it's easier to see the level if you hold a small flashlight directly against the window. Two of the screw holes for the left side cover are drilled through to the crankcase interior. The gasket washers are used to prevent oil leaks. You can enhance that by applying Loctite to the screws. I use their 222. Henkel specifically talks about 567 as a thread sealant but it seems to be for larger coarse threads.

It's unnerving to see the temperature run up to 220 °F but it has the advantage of being hot enough to boil off any condensation in the crankcase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'd recommend using the sleeves but suit yourself. Yamaha likes to use metal tubes with rubber hoses to make the connections. Interesting idea but it means twice as many joints. The K5/K6 1000 coolant level inspection window is hard to use. This is particularly true in my case as I use Zerex G-05, which is amber colored. I found that it's easier to see the level if you hold a small flashlight directly against the Two of the screw holes for the left side cover are drilled through to the crankcase interior. The gaswindow. ket washers are used to prevent oil leaks. You can enhance that by applying Loctite to the screws. I use their 222. Henkel specifically talks about 567 as a thread sealant but it seems to be for larger coarse threads.

It's unnerving to see the temperature run up to 220 °F but it has the advantage of being hot enough to boil off any condensation in the crankcase.
I don't think there are any lil galleys on the 4 little bolts that hold the Counter sprocket cover on though?

I was surprised that now that I'm been using the chain wax on my chain, the inside of the CS cover had very little build up! Cleaned it. Re adjusted my clutch. etc.

I've read soo many posts about:
1. - problems with bleeding the coolant system ( I didn't even remove the acutal bleeder screw!) - it was easy peasy.
2. - problems with getting the clutch working/re adjusted again. Again- no problems. This time I took a little more slack out on the lower adjustment sleeve, so the top has even less turned out now.
 

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"I don't think there are any lil galleys on the 4 little bolts that hold the Counter sprocket cover on though?"
There aren't. I misread and thought that your leak was from the stator cover. The oil in the countershaft is there to lubricate the transmission gears and the clutch (7-20 in the service manual). Be nice to the seal as it can start leaking and replacement requires removal of the lower crankcase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
"I don't think there are any lil galleys on the 4 little bolts that hold the Counter sprocket cover on though?"
There aren't. I misread and thought that your leak was from the stator cover. The oil in the countershaft is there to lubricate the transmission gears and the clutch (7-20 in the service manual). Be nice to the seal as it can start leaking and replacement requires removal of the lower crankcase.
Yep, I put the rod back in and it quit. Thanks again for all your helpful input on this forum and 'over there' too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did I mention that I had to use one of those hose clamps that has a little thumb screw handle on it on one of the hoses? The upper, large short hose that is behind the cylinder and goes to the Water pump.
I pretty much tried standing on my head, every screwdriver and socket I could find, and couldn't get this one tight enough. I only used this on the one spot. worked like a champ.
I was lucky enough to have a few small diameter hose clamps that come already with a plastic little tap that you tighten with your fingertips. That did the trick.

296101


 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I also folded up some of those sleeves and put them where this hose touches the #4 cylinder too.
Just in case.

 

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You have to remove the sprocket cover to access the clamp for the water pump outlet. But it's possible to turn the clamp around so the drive sits ahead of the hose instead of behind. Then you can leave the cover in place. Suzuki uses clamps made by Ideal that have a 1/4" or so extension on the screw head that makes it easier to get a socket onto them. AFAIK no one else does this. I have 100 of these clamps, for the large hoses, that I'll give away for the shipping (small lots only, I'm not going to give them away to resellers). $15 for six sound reasonable?

P.S. Put some cable ties around the hose and sleeves to keep them from working their way off and onto the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Every time I read one of Bills posts, with all the precise knowledge he always uses, I picture someone like Sheldon on 'Big Bang Theory' and read it in his voice LOL.

BillV- that is a compliment sir!
 

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I've never used silicone hoses but search for "silicone" here (pages 16 &26). A couple of your clamps are perforated and may not be appropriate for those hoses.
 

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The AS3 clamps are not perforated and all the edges are rounded and smoothed so they don't risk cutting into the silicone hoses. They look like they may be perforated but they're only cut into the metal on the side facing away from the hose.

296119
 
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