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Discussion Starter #1
Bike will not run. no codes. My tip over sensor reads 65 ohms. Is that correct? If not what should it read?
 

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What year and model bike?

So the bike cranks with the starter but does not run? What else is it doing?
 

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2002 gsxr. Injectors are getting its 12v the the ECM isn’t sending to ground signal to make them work. Bike has no codes
 

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2002 gsxr. Injectors are getting its 12v the the ECM isn’t sending to ground signal to make them work. Bike has no codes
600 or 1k? This could be important.

Since you say it has no codes I'm assuming it is not showing "CHEC" in the cluster?

Is the fuel pump cycling for a few seconds with key on? Is the fuel pump running when you crank the bike with the starter?
 

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And to answer your question on how to test the TOS.
Easy, if the ECM is not showing a C23 code then it is happy with the TOS and will not keep the bike starting and running.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
600 or 1k? This could be important.

Since you say it has no codes I'm assuming it is not showing "CHEC" in the cluster?

Is the fuel pump cycling for a few seconds with key on? Is the fuel pump running when you crank the bike with the starter?
 

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Trying to fig our my ECM is not sending neg to injectors
And I asked you some questions to try and figure that out.

I'll add one more. Do you have spark at the cylinders?
 

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I just noticed you started a thread earlier with the main problem then this one, no need to reply to my questions, now I understand the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I do have spark. I spray starting fluid down the chambers and it starts no problem and runs for about 10 seconds. Seems like my injectors aren’t working but I have no codes and their new injectors. All injectors read 16ohms
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry I keep changing put still trouble shooting and posting what I’m coming up with
 

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Sorry I keep changing put still trouble shooting and posting what I’m coming up with
It would keep people focused if you stay with your original thread and just add detail or updates.
 

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Sorry. Just joined this site. Unable to fig out how to bring up my questions just from login in. I go to my email when someone reply’s is only way I fig out
 

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Sorry. Just joined this site. Unable to fig out how to bring up my questions just from login in. I go to my email when someone reply’s is only way I fig out
Click the quotation bubble that says New in the upper left by your avatar. It will display a list of the threads most recently replied to. You can find your thread there. If a thread is in bold type it means it there are new posts since you looked at it last.

If you have any questions, click on your picture, click on Conversations, click on New Conversation and type my name in. I'll fix you up.
 
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Or click on the three dots at the top right, select Advanced Search, enter your name in "Posted by" and select Date in "Sort by". Then press Search. You don't have to be logged in.

On my K6 1000 it's possible to unplug the sensor and reroute its cable so that it comes out the left side of the bike. Then plug the sensor back in and position it roughly level. Next start the engine, ideally with it level on a stand. You can then tilt the sensor by hand and observe the bike turn off when the tilt reaches about 45°. This also allow you to stick needles into the connector and measure the voltages while all that is happening. I think that yours uses an earlier mechanical design sensor. Mine uses a pivoting weight and a Hall effect sensor so things might be different. I observe the voltage is around .75 V until at 45° it jumps to 4.0 V, at which point the engine stops, FI appears, and the red fault indicator light starts blinking (in User mode). It won't stop blinking until the tip-over condition is corrected and the ignition is turned off. The service manual incorrectly stated that C23 indicates a faulty sensor, i.e. its voltage was less than .2 or greater than 4.8. That's misleading as C23 can also indicate a tip-over condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I took off injectors. Cleaned and test with 9v. Reinstalled and same problem. Then my ECM came in so I put it in. Now she runs for about 15 to 20 seconds and stalls. If show FI code so I put it in dealer mode and it shows C00. Take out the jumper comes back put in the jumper C00. Anyone else have this issue give me an idea what to check
 

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Put in dealer mode and run it till the code pops up. The ECM only sends the code to the cluster once until it is repeated.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Without jumper I put key on without starting and get the FI. I try starting it and FI is still there. I turned key off. Put in jumper for dealer mode. Put to on. C00. Try starting and dies after 2 to 3 seconds and still says C00
 

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When you turn the key off you also clear the codes. Stop farting around with a paper clip or other jumper and get a real dealer mode switch, it's like $20. Then locate it somewhere that you can turn it on & off while the engine is running or, if it stops, without turning the ignition off.
 

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In the other thread you said you did the fuel flow test already. Do it again.

Everything that would cause the injectors not to fire should throw a code. The injectors only get a ground contact when they're supposed to spray. This is a very short signal. I would probe one connector and put the meter in either DC Volts or in frequency if it's capable. Then I'd crank the engine and watch. Voltage should be jumpy at a minimum, and frequency should show something. If either is completely stable, then I would do the same thing on the cam sensor.

I also don't recall seein any mention in this thread or the other about a power commander. Does this bike have an aftermarket fuel controller?
 
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