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Discussion Starter #1
I have a gsxr600 with a short in the rr. I've ordered a new one. But as a matter of curiosity, with a full battery, if I cut the cable on the side of the road, how long would a bike run until the battery dies?
 

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Depends on the battery, and how many, and what type of accessories you have going. HiD headlights, LED tail and turn lights. Too many variables to say how long.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Let's take lights out of it. How long does the core functionality of ignition work?
 

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Why? Unless you need to get it to a shop there's no reason to ride it knowing there's a problem. You'd be fine to start, but then as the voltage drops off, you're going to undervolt the computer and the fuel pump will slow down. It's a stupid idea.
 

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My guess would be at least a 1/2 hour with a good, charged battery and lights disconnected.

I had an R/R blow on me at the track and considered running it as a total loss system but never did since it was almost the end of the day. It is definitely doable.
 
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Long enough to get you to a spot where you have no mobile coverage to call for help ;-)
 

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Pursuing rv6john's train of thought. A typical superstock race is 50 miles and they don't run total loss. So I'm thinking that 25 miles is about it. A battery is 8-10 A hr and I'll guess the fuel pump, ignition, etc. need 10-15 amps (add 5 amps if any lights are on). You do the math.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok so what I'm hearing here is if the I suspect the rr fried,clip the wires to the rr, disconnect the headlight and drive minimum legal speed to home 20 miles, approximately.

Interesting mental exercise.
 

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What will cutting the wires do? I'm guessing maybe more drain on the battery then without cutting them?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The original event which caused this question was the rr shorted out. With it disconnected I could have driven the bike home.
 

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What will cutting the wires do? I'm guessing maybe more drain on the battery then without cutting them?
One of the R/R failure modes is for it go up in a puff of smoke and short out blowing the main 30a fuse. (mine did this)

Cutting the R/R wires to the main harness in the field is a good option as getting to the stock location of the connection plug is a PIA on some bikes. After that, replace the main fuse with the spare in starter relay and ride on. At least for awhile.

As far as reducing the load. There are separate fuses for the high and low beam headlight so pulling the low beam would kill that light and you would still have high beam if you needed it for some reason.

Pulling the "signal" fuse will kill the running lights but you also lose the blinkers, horn and cluster. The current savings is not that much.
 

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Years ago a Canadian lost his stator or R/R while on a trip. He didn't want to wait for the parts to be shipped to a motel so he went to Canadian Tire and bought the smallest portable generator he could find with a 12 V outlet. He managed to bungee cord it to the back of the bike and ride home, something like 500 miles, with it running and supplying the bike. This must have been posted somewhere because all I remember are pics, no video. But I can't find it.
 
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