Suzuki GSXR Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

ok, this new, replacement telephone pole has to be shortened..


hideous! this thing has got to go.. because not only did my previous cut pipe make the bike look better, it picked up 2 mph on the top end, w/ no appreciable loss in the low/mid range.. YMMV..


this is what she looks like now.. weight loss and looks!! schwiinngg....

now on to the how-to process, w/ pics, for your viewing pleasure.. perform at your own risk!!!!!


unbolt fugly exhaust can... DUH!


if you can't, or don't know how to unbolt your can, i suggest that you stop right now.. donate me your bike, and then, you can commit suicide...


place exhaust can on a rag, or in my case, an old floormat, to prevent the finish from getting damaged.. drill out the rivets on the inlet cap, slowly.. take care to not let the drill walk or break the bit (and end up scratching or damaging your can).. once rivet heads are out, remove strap..


next, make your first cut, just behind the inlet cap, to facilitate removal of the end cap... DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE ENTIRE THING.. just cut the outside of the pipe, just in case, as most pipes are different.. i just rotated the pipe around the cut off wheel, to make the cut.. you can use a dremel, hacksaw, sawzall, or in my case, a chop saw... chop saw is the quickest, and cleanest cut, IMO... note, if you're using a dremel or hacksaw, i friggin' feel for you...



there, inlet cap is now off... remember, i didn't cut through the entire can.. the inside perforated pipe and wire sleeve are intact (just being hidden by the fiberglass packing)..


there, the wire sleeve and perforated pipe are separated, after pulling it out from inside of the fiberglass packing.. inlet cap there as well..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·

on this can, the perforated pipe/baffle is slid onto the locator ring, and then tack welded, where it then mates to the inlet cap... i had to grind off the welds to separate the locator ring from the perforated pipe.. basically, grind around the entire circumference of the perforated pipe.. take care not to remove material from the ring, only the perforated pipe, where it's tack welded..


after separating them, i did a test cut, to make sure that the locator ring would slide up inside the perforated tube.. it did, and it was a nice, tight fit...


using a pair of snips, cut off the remaining part of the can's housing, stuck on the end of the cap.. be careful, because that shit is sharp.. i made a slight cut, and then used pliers to fully remove it... now is also when to drill out/remove the remaining portions of the old rivets.. try NOT to enlarge the existing holes on the inlet cap!!!


next, figure where you want to cut the pipe.. measure twice, cut once.. take your time, and make sure all is correct before you commit.. i don't have to explain why, do i? lol.... note, i used my old, damaged can to determine where to cut the new can...


hhhiiiiyyyyyyaaaaaaaaa!!!..... Bruce Lee ain't got shit on me... note, here's where you work the 'cut' burrs out w/ a file...


once the can is shortened to where you want it, mock up the internal.. put the perforated pipe inside, making sure to fully seat it... figure out where to cut.. i eyeballed this cut, cuz i ain't scared...


ok, perforated pipe cut.. also cut the wire sleeve to proper length, as well as the fiberglass packing.. damn i love my chop saw!!


once all is cut to the desired length, put the perforated tube back inside of the wire sleeve.. then wrap the sleeve up in the packing (which i cut, and had removed some of the fiberglass as well).. push all that shit back into the pipe, and gently work the inlet cap back on.. a light hammer and a piece of wood is all you need... push it into the housing, up until where the holes meet the case.. i then wrapped the inlet pipe end w/ tape.. use a sharpie and mark where the holes are situated, as a guide, so you know where to mock up the second set of markings...



i slammed the back side of the inlet cap down onto the floormat to fully seat it.. a hammer and a piece of wood trick can do the same.. do whatever floats your boat... once cap is seated, using the reference marks you made earlier, mark the needed positions again, further down the pipe.. hope you took measurements.. i just eyeballed them... once again, i wasn't scared...


on the second set of marks, on where to drill, i used a center punch to start the drillbit...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·

after drilling, the rivets are installed, only after putting the band back on... oh, don't forget to remove the tape! almost miller time!!!


finished product... i likes.......

side note, as with any project, proper tools and protection should be used.. and once again, perform mod(s) at your own risk.. and fack no, i will not cut your can for you.. :thefinger: be safe!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
looks good.. you're making me miss my k4 750 w/ that pic.. sold her to get a liter bike, soon... had to keep my k4 600 though (my first bike, my baby)....
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top