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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, new to the forum and just got my first Suzuki. Was gifted a 01 gsxr1000 that has issues I'm trying to sort out. Previous owner stated he thought it needed a new starter relay. Got the bike home and battery was shot. Put a new battery in and turned the key but did not hear the fuel pump kick in. While I was looking at a few things my son pressed the start button and almost immediately I heard a puff and smoke came out of the ecu! So that's now fried but I can't figure out why it fried. Best guess is something wasn't hooked up correctly. Disconnected the battery and pulled the ecu. The plugs for it were warm and the back side of the ecu had a burn mark. Where should I begin in diagnosing the issue? Dont want to get a new ecu and have the same thing happen. I would have thought there would be built in protection to keep this from happening.
 

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Check voltage off stator and rectifier to start, Make sure you got the right fuses in it, and the check to see what you got. I wouldn't put in a new ecu until after I did that. John probably knows the correct voltages that you should have, worse case I believe they are in the service manual which can be found with a little digging around.
 

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Not good.

Simple question first, did you hook up the battery backwards by mistake? On most bikes it is physically hard to do, but I'm not familiar with your year.

About the only way I would be comfortable plugging in a new ECM would be to take the wiring diagram and run down all the wires to the ECM plugs looking for hacks and damage.

It could also be that the ECM is just old and had accumulated moisture over a period of inactivity. It was made in the day of VCRs, modems and phone land lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replys. Yea definitely not going to plug in a new ecu until I figure out what fried it. I'm going to have to trace all the wires. I feel like something is ether not grounded properly or theres a short in the wiring. Battery was definitely hooked up properly. The key was on for a good minute or so before the start switch was pushed. As soon as It was pushed was when the ecu fried. Could it also be a bad voltage regulator? Also is it possible to crank the motor without the ecu? Trying to do a compression check. Trying to hunt down a service manual so I can figure out where all the wires should go.
 

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No it's not a bad Regulator/rectifier (voltage regulator). It has no effect till the bike is running.

Yes the bike will crank without the ECM. Power to the starter relay control side is from the kill switch and the ground side goes through the clutch safety switch.

There should be no need to unwrap the harness. The chance of internal damage is pretty small if there is not sign of external damage on the wrapping. Just pin out from the ECM plugs to the components.

I don't think a bad ground would be the issue. More likely it is power applied to the wrong circuit. Thinking about it, that was a pretty heavy duty component in the ECM to generate that much heat so I would lean towards it being just it's time to die.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lol free is always expensive. I think my next course will be to jump the starter relay to get it to crank. I'm going to order a used ECM on Ebay. While I'm waiting on that I'm going to test all the wires and check to make sure they are all hooked up. Judging by what I'm finding this is going to be a task. Previous owner had lights tapped into the wiring and looks like a preschooler did it. I'm removing all the non-factory crap to get to the OEM wiring. There is also what looks to be a long vacuum hose coming off the fuel rail on the light side of the bike that has a screw inserted into the end. Obviously not how it is supposed to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so I got the new ECM in and hooked it up, no puff of smoke. New issues though. First the fuel pump was not priming so I changed out the relay with a new factory relay and now it primes..but wont stop. The pump keeps priming and doesn't stop after the 3 sec it should. Also will not allow me to try and start the bike. Of course it flooded the cylinders and i had to clear that. Only other thing I noticed is that when I turn the kill switch to run, the lights dim and the dash gets really dim. I'm thinking maybe all the testing drained the battery down so I'm going to hook it up and let it charge. But that is where I currently am. If i jump the starter solenoid the engine cranks fine. The solenoid is also brand new.
 

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Ok so I got the new ECM in and hooked it up, no puff of smoke. New issues though. First the fuel pump was not priming so I changed out the relay with a new factory relay and now it primes..but wont stop. The pump keeps priming and doesn't stop after the 3 sec it should. Also will not allow me to try and start the bike. Of course it flooded the cylinders and i had to clear that. Only other thing I noticed is that when I turn the kill switch to run, the lights dim and the dash gets really dim. I'm thinking maybe all the testing drained the battery down so I'm going to hook it up and let it charge. But that is where I currently am. If i jump the starter solenoid the engine cranks fine. The solenoid is also brand new.


I noticed that when my battery was discharged, the bike did the start up sequence of tach sweep and prime constantly - the headlight also dimmed considerably.

I’d start by fully charging the battery and see what happens from there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, I have the battery on a charger and as m going to let it sit overnight. Try again in the morning and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok so I did some testing on multiple areas with my multimeter. First I checked the fuel pump relay to see how it's getting power and if maybe there is a short. I'm not great with electronics so maybe I'm not interpreting these correct.

So first I tested the Y/B, O/W, Y/R, R/BI wires. These are what I got under different conditions.

Key off: YB-0.01v, OW-0.01v, YR-0.00v, R/BI-12.98v. As I understand it, all wires except R/BI should have 0 volts. The other has constant 12V.

Key on, kill switch to kill: YB-0.48v, OW-0.48, YR-0.04, R/BI-12.75. Voltage should still be 0 on all wires except the constant 12v. Voltage is building in the wires and shouldn't?

Key on, kill switch to run: YB-1.94v, OW-7.35v, YR-11.40v, R/BI-11.41v.

I know the YB connects straight to the ECM. The ECM connects this wire to ground triggering the relay on and off. So if I'm reading this correct, there is ether a short somewhere or the ECM is faulty.

Next I tested the crankshaft position sensor. Unplugging from the harness I tested the resistance and it measured 0.01 on the first reading and 0.16 on the second. Should be way higher? Next I measured with the motor being cranked to measure voltage. I got no readings at all over multiple cranks. This would suggest the sensor is bad and would explain the no spark.

Lastly I checked the injector wiring. Testing the GR/W, GR/B, GR/Y, GR/R at the ECM plug. Key off and unplugged from the ECM I got 0.00v on all 4 wires. Plugged the harness in and key off I got 12.47v on all 4 wires. So basically it is triggering all 4 injectors to spray at all times.

So am I reading all this correctly lol? If so it is pointing at either a wiring harness issue of the ECM is crap.
 

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It sounds like ECU issues. From past experience check to make sure you have been give the correct ECU. Believe it or not different ones can still plug in and sometimes run the bike. I ended up with a 01 1000 ECU in my 01 750 and it caused me no end of pain until I checked the numbers on the ECU. If it hadn't of run I probably would have gone there first.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
BIG update! So I've been testing wires all week. What I found was that the voltage drop was being caused by the coils. On key on and switch to run, the trigger wires from the ECM to coils was drawing voltage. Now as I understand it, the O/W wire is the hot wire. When switched to run it sends 12+v constant to each coil. The ECM grounds the signal wires to cause the spark. Well when I would turn the bike to the run position, each signal wire was getting 1.62v. This was causing the voltage on the O/W to drop into the 6v range. I tested all the signal wires going from the ECM plug to the coils and found no areas were voltage could be leaking in. So in figured it must be the ECM. But what are the odds 2 ECMs would be bad? So I bit the bullet and decided to order one more ECM. Figured if this still happens then I was going to take the bike to the dealer. Well I found another ECM on Ebay and ordered it. When it arrive today I found that the one I ordered was different from the other two. It is off of a 02 gsxr1000. The part numbers are different. The two that I had are 32920-40F30. The one I got today is 32920-40FD0. So in my hast to order I forgot to verify the part numbers! This one is also smaller than the other two. Figured what the hell might as well try it. Plugged it in and turned the power on. Bike powered up. Switched the toggle to the run position so I could do some checks. Happened to glance at the dash and the FI was blinking. Also instead of showing CHEC it was showing F1. Put the bike into dealer mode and it finally showed me codes! Codes were just for some plugs being not in. Also noticed that the relay for the fuel pump is now cycling off like it should. Checked the plugs for the coils and they were showing 12.65v on the hot wire and 0v on the trigger wire. So tried to crank the bike and my spark tester lit up with a strong spark while cranking! So seems that the issue was the ECM! Now I'm not sure if the other ECMs are indeed bad or the wrong ECM for the bike. Haven't tried to fire it up yet but am going to hopefully try tomorrow. Looks like steps in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Had the moment of truth yesterday. Put the tank back on and plugged everything in. Bike fired right up! Tested the RR and it is charging the bike. Only issue now is the cooling fan isn't coming on. Let the bike warm up and temp got all the way up to 220 and it never turned on. That will be the next thing to figure out. Thanks for all of your help getting me this far!
 

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I don't have a manual for your year but assume the K3 is similar.

Power to the fan comes from a dedicated "fan" fuse to the thermo switch on the left side of the radiator via the O/R wire then to the fan via the B wire. Ground for the fan is the B/W wire.

Check the fuse, put power to the fan to make sure it works, make sure you have power to the thermo switch. Easy squeezy.
 
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I just checked and the specs are that the fan should turn on at approx. 221F and off at 212F.

This is a mechanical switch and reading a temperature from a different place than the sensor for the cluster display temperature so there will be some error in there.
 

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:devil Fried ECU? How is that? 'Cause I like mine Baked!' LOL :devil


Seriously though,
Glad you got an ECU that worked!!

And let it get a bit hotter like John said and see if the fan works then
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok so I let the bike warm up to 223 and the fan kicked on. Only thing is it drops the temp down to 219 and then turns off. Keep a doing this but never keeps going below 219.
 

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That would not concern me if it were my bike.

Again, the temperature you are reading in the cluster is from a sender in the engine coolant jacket and the thermo switch for the fan is mounted in the radiator side cap.

If you want to pursue this, use an infrared temperature gun at the thermo switch area and see when the fan cycles.

As a side note, the K6 600s use one sensor to inform the ECM and the ECM controls the fan and sends the data to the cluster. The result is that the fan works exactly the same as displayed in the cluster.
 
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