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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So recently some dip$hit attempted to steal my bike by drilling through the entire ignition, so there's literally nowhere left to insert my key anymore ha. Now I always lock my steering column when I park it outside my house, so now with the steering column locked I've been told I need to pry the locking pin loose in order to swap out the actual ignition.. my new ignition assembly is arriving tomorrow.
The possible solutions I've been told to unlock the steering column were to either jam the handle bars really hard to the right until I snap the locking pin loose or the other solution which I will try first is to loosen/remove the triple clamp if I can to allow better access to the ignition locking pin in the steering column and pry it loose through there, & then I can proceed with swapping out the whole ignition assembly.

Anybody have any further suggestions on how to go about this including best way to unlock my steering column without doing too much damage ??

Appreciate any advice or help I can get.
Thanks!
 

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Welcome.

They actually did a pretty good job keeping thieves from pulling the switch out or unlocking the bars.

First, I would not try to force the bars to break the pin. it is pretty stout and you might do damage to the frame neck or the upper triple switch mount.

This how it is locked together. The ignition switch is screwed to the bottom of the upper triple with a tamper proof screws (2). The locking pin goes into a socket in the neck that prevents rotation but also keeps you from removing the upper triple (pulling it up) even if you remove the top nut.

I think the only way to get it apart is to take the weight off the front end , loosen the top and bottom triple clamp bolts so the forks slide down enough to clear the upper triple.

Take the top nut off (A big regular 6pt socket works) then loosen the spindle bearing lock nuts under the upper triple till the steering stem goes down far enough to free the upper triple.

The backwards "D" indentation is where the pin locks into and the the pin is about the size of that slot. 3/8"?
The two stem lock nuts are easy to get to under the triple.

197728477_328234355465609_3508758851634865059_n.jpg
 

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BTW, I went through this with a friend's CBR600rr but Honda did one better and the top triple totally covered the upper spindle nuts.

We finally used a dremel to cut the ignition switch into pieces till we could break it apart. It took a few hours and lots of dremel wheels but worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry if you have to speak to me a little elementary, I do some minor work with my bike already, but this will be one of my more complex projects by myself. So the mechanic I have been in contact with also mentioned raising the front wheel a little. Do you think lifting it on to one leg of a portable car ramp would do the trick ?
Also, from my understanding I'm going to have to loosen the existing ignition in order to loosen the top triple clamp just to gain access to the pin. Now with the dremel idea, do you think shredding the existing ignition into pieces will make it easier to pry the locking pin loose?
Also, you think I will definitely have to loosen the lower triple clamp as well as the top?
I guess my biggest fear is taking all these pieces apart and not being confident enough to put them back together in the end, because i mean the ignition should be fairly simple plug & play so to speak, but the lower triple clamp is where my prior knowledge starts to get pretty vague.
As far as prying the pin loose itself, you think I should use something like a crow bar to pry it loose or is there any other way besides brute force (which I don't mind if it comes to it) other than stripping down the whole front end of my bike..or I guess which route would you recommend being the simplest to achieve as well put everything back together of you were in my position?

Thanks again for taking the time!
 

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You need to support the front of the bike so there is no weight on the wheel and room for the forks to move down far enough. That is the tricky part. I've seen people use supports under the frame sliders to lifting the bike with straps or rope under the frame.

The rest is actually pretty straight forward.

The really down and dirty way to do it is to just hack saw the upper triple in half and the switch will be loose. Then just buy a new/used replacement part. Not how I would do it, but it will work.

I'd avoid the crow bar if you expect to ride the bike again.
 
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