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Discussion Starter #1
Well it's me again guys; I got a ECU + harness off ebay for 105 shipped. So I got everything wired up... but I get nothing..

My ignition looks like someone took a screw driver and just jammed it inthere. Well whatever they did I cant just get a screwdriver and do what they did because its not working. I double checked all my wiring and even tested the battery.

So i think I need a new ignition.. but until then is there any little wire tricks I can do just get her started up??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How do i check for ignition signal? (sorry i'm a nub)

It's too dark to see wire colors at the moment so tomorrow I'll go take a look and let you guys know, thanks!
 

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called a friend of mine
he said 4 wires on the plug & you may need to mod it with a resistor from Radio Shack or a comprable electronics store

when u say nothing....does the headlight and speedo light up?
have you checked your
clutch lever slide switch?
kickstand switch?
off/run switch?
neutral safety switch?
is the ECU from EBAY known to be good?
 

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heyimeugene said:
How do i check for ignition signal? (sorry i'm a nub)

It's too dark to see wire colors at the moment so tomorrow I'll go take a look and let you guys know, thanks!
Use a test light to see.
 

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Below are steps to get the 01-03 to start without a key for race prep. This would be pretty much what you need to do to get the bike started without the key. I have also heard not using a resistor WILL toast your ECM/ECU prematurely.

Parts:

100 Ohm Resistor, 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance: Radio Shack part 271-1108
18-20 Gauge Wire (two different colors)
Electrical Tape

I soldered all of the connections. If you would rather use connectors and
a crimping tool, you will need to have a supply on hand. I am not sure how
one would install the resistor with out a soldering iron.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is the legend for the various wires involved in the re-wiring: (01-03)

Wire Colors and Functions (Right Handle Switch (Kill Switch)):

O/B (Orange with Black Tracer) -- Kill Switch
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) --

Wire Colors and Functions (Key Switch):

Br (Brown) - Tail Light
B/W (Black with White Tracer) - Ground
Gr (Gray) - Instrument Cluster Light and Horn
O (Orange) - Ignition
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) - Cooling Fan
O/Y (Orange with Yellow Tracer) - ECU
R (Red) - Power (+12v)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Removal:

The first step is to remove the two wiring harnesses that will be
modified: the key switch and the right clip-on switch cluster. Find and
disconnect the connectors that connect these harnesses to the main wiring
harness. The key switch has two connectors along the right frame spar.
The right clip-on switch cluster has a connector just in front of the
radiator on the right side. You will have to open some zip ties and a
clamp to get the harnesses free.

To remove the key switch, you will have to take off the top triple clamp
and remove the two tamper resistant Torx bolts. I do not have the correct
Torx bits so I drilled the heads of the bolts off. To remove the right
clip-on switch cluster, you will need to disconnect the throttle cables
from the cluster.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Key Switch Harness Modification:

This one is actually quite simple. Start by cutting all the wires 2" from
the main connector. Cut the Br and Gr wires at the connector so they are
slightly recessed since they will not be used. Cut the O/Y and B/W wires
to 1" in length and solder a lead of the 100 Ohm resistor to each wire.
Insulate the wires and resistor with Electrical tape to keep the O/Y and
B/W wires and resistor leads from touching. Leave the R and O wires at 2"
for now.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Right Clip-on Switch Cluster Harness Modification:

The goal here is to re-wire this harness so the circuit the kill switch
normally controls is always connected (run) and to have two wires coming
out of the harness connected to the kill switch.

In the run position, the kill switch completes a circuit between the O/B
and O/W wires. The O/W wire actually connects to the starter button and
the kill switch. A "Y" is formed about 4 inches down the wiring harness
from the switch. Cut into the sheath and find where the O/W wire forms the
"Y" and cut the O/W wire that leads to the kill switch. Cut the O/B wire
at the same point in the harness and solder it to the O/W running to the
Starter Switch. Run a pair of wires through the sheath and connect them to
the O/W and and O/B wires from the kill switch. Leave about 3" of wire
hanging out from the sheath at the connector end. Use electrical tape to
insulate all of the connections and to cover the cut in the sheath.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Putting it All Together:

Take the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors and plug them into the corresponding connectors on the main
wiring harness. Look at the R and O wires coming from the key switch
harness and the two unconnected wires coming from the right clip-on switch
cluster harness. If needed, cut the appropriate amount of wire from the
right clip-on switch cluster harness to allow for an uncluttered
connection.

Unplug the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors. Connect the R wire from the key switch harness to an
unconnected wire from the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Connect
the O wire from the key switch harness to the other unconnected wire from
the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Use electrical tape to insulate
all of the connections.

Put the kill switch in the "stop" position and plug the connectors in
again. Put the kill switch in the "run" position. The bike should power on
and be ready to start. Try starting the bike. If it starts, you are just
about done.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Finishing Up:

Reinstall the right clip-on switch cluster and clean up the wiring harness
connections.
 

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last post on this thread before I am classified as a post whore :lol:

After reading the service manual about the ignition key and the immobilizer system. It says "Immobilizer (Except for E-03, 28, 33)" . I take that as the country codes E-03 (USA except for California), 28 (Canada), 33 ( California) don't have the "Immobilizer" feature built into the bike. So if your bike is a Canadian or USA model, you don't have to worry about reprogramming your bike after an ignition switch replacement.

Others also have eliminated the key switch on several wire harnesses for use in mini sprint cars. You will need a 100 ohm-1/4 watt resistor ( can be bought at Radio Shack )
The resistor can also wire in to the orange wire with a yellow tracer that is coming out of the ECM. The other end of the resistor needs to be hooked into the black wire with the white traccer from the ECM wich is the ground for the system.

All 01-03 600/750/1000's can run w/o the ignition switch.... as long as you have the proper resistor in the circuit.....
 

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onedownfiveup said:
Use a test light to see.
i dont suggest test lights, i say get a volt meter, you could be getting power but maybe not enough and test light could come on, i skipped a couple post but i hope this may help a little.
 

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when my bike was stolen, they opened the ignition casing and yanked out the internals (looks like a white disc with two metal ball bearings inside of the ends)......this piece was zip-tied to the black plastic piece that the ignition wires connected to. when the 2 bearings were pressed down onto the metal pieces on the black plastic, they would close the circuit and BAM! ignition.

here's the only pic i have showing what i'm talking about...sorry its huge, but you can see the white piece zip tied to the black connecting piece....when turned it would close the circuit....i rode with no keys for almost a year before replacing my ignition


 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ohh.. and I mean I nothing lights up at all; no speedo nothing... so I'm asuming I need to hotwire or make homemade switch or something.

Hey Foggysps; do those instructions work for teh 04-05 model also?

And USDM420; looks like your bike was a 04-05 model (correct me if I'm wrong) but could you tell me which wires were connected to that switch? Or was it out of your ignition?

What lines would I test also?

Yes the guy on ebay said it was perfectly working and had a good rep. So.. I hope its good? LoL
 

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okay, so I'm a little missing the big picture
bike was stolen from you...you got it back as a recovered theft
rode the bike for almost a year with no key before replacing your ignition
when u say "replacing my ignition" what do u mean?
you have a completely new ignition/key switch?
so when did the ECU fry? OR why did you have to buy an ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
foggysps said:
okay, so I'm a little missing the big picture
bike was stolen from you...you got it back as a recovered theft
rode the bike for almost a year with no key before replacing your ignition
when u say "replacing my ignition" what do u mean?
you have a completely new ignition/key switch?
so when did the ECU fry? OR why did you have to buy an ECU?
Talking to me or USDM420???

Well if its me.. my bike was stollen from me and got it back from the police; they gave me everything back but I was missing my main wire harness + ecu. I just got everything installed but by ignition is all sorts of messed. So I want to get her to atleast power on tach and headlights then I can start her up and atleast ride her until I can get a new ignition. :)


*edit*

USDM, howd they get that piece out of your ignition? from the top? Or the bottom?
 

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yes i rode almost a year with NO KEY.......and i replaced my whole key set....gas cap, ignition, trunk lock...with new keys.


Eugene...yeah mine is an '04, same model as yours.....that black piece is what the wires run to, its straight out of the ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
USDM, howd they get that piece out of your ignition? from the top? Or the bottom?

If the bottom; I recall its solid do I have to hacksaw it open?
 

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my bad crossed the threads.
the directions posted are for 01-03
not sure if they apply to yours and I would be opposed to trying it until someone can confirm that the 01-03 directions will work on 04-05
wouldn't want you to fry the ecu u just bought
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yea, I'm going to wait for someone to verify; but a big thanks for getting those directions to me. I'm just waiting for usdm to tell me how it comes out or how he thinks it came out. Then gunna run downstairs and try to get that piece out.. I just want to hear her start up again.

It's been 5 months and finally got everything I need.. just a switch stopping me!
 

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i believe its from the bottom.....the black piece is DIRECTLY connected to the wires....so wherever the wires run is where that piece is located.

if you want, i still have my old ghetto-rigged ignition piece around here somewhere and can ship it to ya if you cover the shipping. then you can just plug it in and turn the white dial hahaha


the underside of my old ignition was completely gone (as you can vaguely see in the pic).....you can look right thru the keyhole and out the bottom :headshake
 

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i believe its from the bottom.....the black piece is DIRECTLY connected to the wires....so wherever the wires run is where that piece is located.

if you want, i still have my old ghetto-rigged ignition piece around here somewhere and can ship it to ya if you cover the shipping. then you can just plug it in and turn the white dial hahaha


the underside of my old ignition was completely gone (as you can vaguely see in the pic).....you can look right thru the keyhole and out the bottom :headshake
Hey do u still have it??
 

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Hey do u still have it??
Welcome.

It is unlikely as this thread is 15 years old and the guy has not been here in 5 years.

Start your own thread if you would like pursue your question.
 
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