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Discussion Starter #21
Well I put a brand new DB electrical stator in it and a brand new rectifier and the bike is charging the battery normally now so I’m glad I got that taken Care of.. So now the bike is running better than it’s ever ran before seriously but it still is getting to like 7k Rpms now and it feels like the bike is pegged out and if I give it more throttle it Boggs and then I immediately let off and there’s a small burst of speed.. I put that brand new quantum HP fuel pump in it recently but I was talking to a Suzuki mechanic on the phone and he said those were crap and that it could be causing me to lose fuel pressure.. anybody heard of that? It sounds legit, I think I may need to test the fuel pressure, it may be dropping off on me, I’m gonna check and make sure the butterflies are opening tonight when I get off work... yea it as a B&M air filter and I took it out the other day and cleaned it really good so I would think it’s good... I checked the tps and it’s right in the middle -C00 so it’s staying in position but I wonder if it’s gone bad and won’t let me rev over 7k? I don’t think it’s that because I can rev the bike to like 10k Rpms when not under load but I’m not sure.. can’t I switch out the Stps that’s not being used with the TPS??? Anybody know anything about that or how to do it? That might be a good thing to check... thx guys for all the info I really appreciate it, I am able to ride the bike around town now and it’s very zippy, when I go wot there is no bogging until it gets to 7k rpms then I can’t get past it, it’s the damndest thing, it really feels like it wants to go past it but it won’t, it feels like the bike runs normally other than that, I have done the HPF bypass and added the inline efi fuel filter but I don’t believe that would affect anything... yea like you said EVL I don’t think it’s the ecu either because the bike starts right up no problem and runs normally other than my small problem lol, any other suggestions are greatly appreciated, thx guys
 

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In-line fuel pressure check with the gauge at idle and under load should be 42-43psi, you don't have top butterflies anymore so as long as your throttle cable doesn't bind your bottom butterflies will open. Your TPS is most likely good and no the STPS and TPS are different because of the mounting positions. If those are good then you will have to go back to cams. I once installed Yoshimura (drop-in) cams in a 2001 GSXR 750 and the problems sounds identical. The timing was completely off and required degreeing. Just to make sure I wasn't crazy I installed the stock cams and it ran perfect. Put the yoshis back in and used a degree wheel. You may be installing your cams correctly but your cam chain tensioner many not be tightening quick enough so 1 cam might rotate a tooth or something. Once those are checked and your still having problems then it could be the ECU I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thx for all of the help EVL I really appreciate it. So you were right about the cheap stator and rectifier, the plug on the new rectifier melted togeather for some reason after about two weeks smh. They sent me new ones so I threw them on last night eliminating the plugs, charges correctly now. Also finally took the injectors out and cleaned them and wow the bike came to life after I did that! Bike seemed to be driving normally, was able to rev above 7k rpms under load and everything! Was so excited! Then about two hours later I was pulling into my friends gravel driveway and yep you guessed it, it fell over, but at a stand still and I was holding it the whole way down so it wasn’t like a hard slam but when I finally got it back up it started doing the damn thing again where it won’t rev above 7k rpms smh, I must have maybe had some dirt from the fuel tank or something flow back into the injectors when it fell over? I bought a PC3r the other day and installed it on there and it definitely gave it some extra power for sure. But Idk, man this bike has been so much work from day one. It seems like I can never get it right and keep it right, thinking about selling it and upgrading to something newer and bigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Also I took the bike out today for a few mins before work and it ran better than it has since I got it, I was able to rev to almost 9k rpms under load so that’s new and awesome, it’s sounds so mean at those rpms but I think I need to fine tune my PC3r to increase fuel about 5% in the upper rpm range and that may fix it I’m hoping or at least help a lot, anybody know if I put my secondary butterflies back on if it would help me to achieve redline? Thx
 

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It wont help you get to redline so don't bother putting them back on. This is one reason Suzuki removed them on the 2017 and up GSXR 1000s.
 

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Are you getting any popping or anything while riding? Is it a smooth power band to 7-9k? When you let off the throttle does the bike sound normal? Did you ever check your cam position? Have you completed a compression test?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Okay yea I didn’t think they would help but thanks for clearing that up. Yea actually it’s really smooth power delivery up until bout 8k rpms then it just feels like it’s topped out or something but it never really backfired under load at high rpms but it does backfire sometimes when I rev it up to like 10k in neutral but not everytime. I don’t have a way to test the cams or the compression but the bike feels so strong from 0-8000k rpms that I really wouldn’t think compression. Oh and I got it to hit 105 yesterday when I was riding and it was still pulling at that speed but I had to slow down because I came up on a car. But do you know of any easy tests I can do on the cams or the compression? Thx EVL, I really appreciate your help.
 

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CAMS/VALVES - It sounds like your cams are probably ok. The easiest way to tell is to pull your valve cover back off, rotate the crank to TOP DEAD CENTER, pull the cam cover/two bolts off and re-count your chain links/teeth. If you were to go to this point then you might as well re-check your cam lobe/shim bucket gaps (valve adjustment specs).

Bottom butterflies/ manually operated butterflies via throttle and cable - ensure that when your throttle is 100% open that your butterflies are completely vertical.

Compression - most Advanced/O Riley's,/ AutoZone have a compression tester however they usually do not have the 10mm (I believe that's the spark plug threading). Harbor freight carries one that does for around 20-30$ and its good enough for a couple of uses. If you have never done a compression test then say so before you do it so you do it correct. If your compression is low (rings or valves not sealing) the engine can still run up to speeds or rpms but may not make enough power to get to redline.

The only other thing I can think is a ECU issue... Can you send the ECU part number just to ensure you have the correct ECU in the bike.

Can you get the bike to redline with it just sitting next to you (not driving it)? Or does the motor stall at 8k all the time? Trying to figure out if this is a electronic limitation or a motor limitation.
 

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My bike was doing the same thing basically a 2003 gsxr600. New fuel pump almost fixed the problem. But one of my injectors has rust build up around the spray tip. I noticed with mine around that 5-7k mark I can force it through the bogging and then the big starts running normally. Just shows an f1 error code.
 

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The original suggestions were a fuel pressure check but I don't think one was ever completed, just the regulator. The fuel pump could still be the problem but until he test the psi we wont know. Also its F I (Eye) Fault Indicator.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hey sorry for the late reply, thx for the all the good info guys. Yea I have never done a compression test before so it would definitely be my first time. I put a brand new quantum high flow fuel pump in the bike about a month ago with no change and I put a new fuel pressure regulator in it as well. The bike still didn’t seem to be getting enough fuel because the HPF was clogged so I did the HPF bypass and man that helped the bike a whole lot. On some other forums there was a whole write up about how to do it. Now with me putting that hole in the bottom of the HPF would that cause me to lose fuel pressure? I still haven’t done a fuel pressure test because I don’t have a way to test it. I guess I need to breakdown and buy one. I drove the bike yesterday and it wouldn’t go above 6k again under load smh but if I pull the clutch in and rev the bike or if it’s in neutral it will rev to about 10k... I cleaned the injectors out a couple weeks ago and man that helped a lot and If I remember correctly it was reving over 6k under load then I was turning around in a driveway a couple hours later and there was some gravel and the damn thing fell out from under me smh I held it all the way down but then it took me a minute to get it picked back up and then it wouldn’t start. My rectifier burnt up the plug to the stator in the moment as well for some reason. Also I was way out in the country when this happened and I was on my way back to town and the gas light came on and I had to drive the bike like 10 miles with the light on, I know I know that’s not good for the fuel system but I don’t have a choice... after that day the bike was back to not reving over 6-8k. Rpms ... I put another new stator and rectifier on and got the bike running good again and then took it out yesterday and antifreeze started pouring out when I parked it... smh... I can’t win... I did just fill the overflow resivour after I finished working on the stator, I probably need to do a full coolant flush honestly.. really not sure where I should go next with this thing... it has the factor my Ecu In it .. says 32920-35FDO, I believe that’s the factory one anyways.. could it go bad possibly?
 

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Hey sorry for the late reply, thx for the all the good info guys. Yea I have never done a compression test before so it would definitely be my first time. I put a brand new quantum high flow fuel pump in the bike about a month ago with no change and I put a new fuel pressure regulator in it as well. The bike still didn’t seem to be getting enough fuel because the HPF was clogged so I did the HPF bypass and man that helped the bike a whole lot. On some other forums there was a whole write up about how to do it. Now with me putting that hole in the bottom of the HPF would that cause me to lose fuel pressure? I still haven’t done a fuel pressure test because I don’t have a way to test it. I guess I need to breakdown and buy one. I drove the bike yesterday and it wouldn’t go above 6k again under load smh but if I pull the clutch in and rev the bike or if it’s in neutral it will rev to about 10k... I cleaned the injectors out a couple weeks ago and man that helped a lot and If I remember correctly it was reving over 6k under load then I was turning around in a driveway a couple hours later and there was some gravel and the damn thing fell out from under me smh I held it all the way down but then it took me a minute to get it picked back up and then it wouldn’t start. My rectifier burnt up the plug to the stator in the moment as well for some reason. Also I was way out in the country when this happened and I was on my way back to town and the gas light came on and I had to drive the bike like 10 miles with the light on, I know I know that’s not good for the fuel system but I don’t have a choice... after that day the bike was back to not reving over 6-8k. Rpms ... I put another new stator and rectifier on and got the bike running good again and then took it out yesterday and antifreeze started pouring out when I parked it... smh... I can’t win... I did just fill the overflow resivour after I finished working on the stator, I probably need to do a full coolant flush honestly.. really not sure where I should go next with this thing... it has the factor my Ecu In it .. says 32920-35FDO, I believe that’s the factory one anyways.. could it go bad possibly?
I keep telling you which direction to go in...

Fuel pressure test at idle and under load.
Compression test.

Rent a tester or buy one and the same goes for the fuel pressure tester. Where do you live?

You have been able to get it up to random rpm ranges which to me suggest fuel or motor limitation and not electronics.

I don't know anything about putting a hole in the HPF, so maybe someone else could answer that but if you stick a hole in a area under vacuum you lose the suction.

What did you clean the injectors with? Suzuki does not recommend using anything in the injectors because it can corrode them. The safest thing has been seafoam which is just kerosene.

Your rectifier did not burn your stator plug up most likely. They normally burn up because dirt and grime gets in it (its not sealed on those years properly) so dirt causes resistance, resistance causes heat, heat melts stuff.

There is some weird myth about not running your vehicle low on fuel. Absolutely incorrect... Just don't run it OUT OF fuel. The fuel cools the fuel pump which is what matters. When we race these there is usually a gallon or less of fuel per race. on a 2002 GSXR 750 the gas light will cut on when you have 30-32 miles left before your on fumes (my 750 has 80K miles on it so trust me I know).

If antifreeze pours out when your bike is hot, its because your thermostat has gone bad. Its a $30 part and a 5 minute install. Fill the radiator, run the bike, fill the radiator then put the cap on, then fill the reservoir halfway and no more. Half antifreeze half water or premix, and NO tap water/hose water.

ECU = yes your ECU is the stock one, and again most likely not the issue.
 
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