Suzuki GSXR Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ve searched all over and can't figure out what the problem could be. I jumped on my bike the other day,started right up, no problems and went for a ride into town. Along the way I got stuck behind a slow poke driver for most of my trip. Got to the store went in,came out the bike started up just fine and I went on my way. I get a lil bit down the road and it starts to sputter and act like it was loaded up or flooding the plugs. I tried to give it some throttle to maybe clear it out and it just loses power and barely runs. Eventually it died and wouldn't restart. So I tow it home and figure its a fouled plug. I could smell gas while trying to start it,and it will turn over and start but not stay running. I replaced the plugs (they needed to be replaced) and when I turn it over it still does the same thing. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump prime and stop and then start it but then dies. I can get it to run for about 10 seconds if I mess with the throttle but it runs like shit and then dies. I tried to get into dealer mode but it just says chec on the temp gage and doesn't throw any codes. Im at a total loss and beyond frustrated. Any help is greatly appreciated. Could this be electrical? I've noticed that the headlight dims when trying to start the bike, but I figured that's from trying to start it so many times the battery is getting low. Could this be an electrical problem?


Update: tore side of bike apart trying to inspect the electrical system and came across this. Looks like it's burnt out. It's the black with white line. How would I go about fixing this? Make a jumper? New harness? Also what would have caused this?
294029


294030
294031
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,875 Posts
Welcome. Sounds like it may no be charging and the battery is dead now.

Charge the battery, start the bike and check the charging system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ok I will start there. I located the harness that comes from the speedo and dash and goes to the ecu pulled it apart and on one of the connections it's a brownish burnt color. I'm not exactly sure which one it is, I'll take a Pic and post it on here in the hopes that someone might know if that could be my problem. How would I go about replacing that connection? New wire and connectors? Jump it altogether?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,875 Posts
The connector in your pictures is the one that handles all the front lights and the cluster. It has only one ground wire for all that, the Black/white wire, so there is good bit of current going through that pin. It gets hot because with age and corrosion it builds up resistance. This is a fairly common problem as the bikes are getting older.

Your pin is not bad and you may just clean it up and see if it holds. The permanent fix is to cut the wires on each side and join them together. A crimp connector is OK, soldered is better.

All this being said, it has nothing to do with your running problem. You could leave that connector unplugged and the bike will start and run just fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Todd_Sails

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The connector in your pictures is the one that handles all the front lights and the cluster. It has only one ground wire for all that, the Black/white wire, so there is good bit of current going through that pin. It gets hot because with age and corrosion it builds up resistance. This is a fairly common problem as the bikes are getting older.

Your pin is not bad and you may just clean it up and see if it holds. The permanent fix is to cut the wires on each side and join them together. A crimp connector is OK, soldered is better.

All this being said, it has nothing to do with your running problem. You could leave that connector unplugged and the bike will start and run just fine.

Damn, that figures... Well, back to the cluster fuck that is my bike. I'm starting to notice the more I tear it apart that the guy that had it before me was a lame when it came to wiring up shit all nice and clean. The aftermarket hid's are a total mess, the wiring from the ecu to the gauge harness is run in a really bad spot, and the connection from the harness to the gauge had a loose wire somewhere in it cause before this all happened my headlight and gauge had gone out and didn't come back on til I found the harness and moved it around and, voila, they magically came back on. The bike says chec where the temp gauge is but I can't get it to throw any codes when I attempt to put it in dealer mode. I should contact him and see if it's an aftermarket gauge cluster. I've heard a lot of people have had problems with the non oem ones?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,875 Posts
I'm not aware of any non-oem gauge clusters except some very basic ones.

The reason the cluster is showing "CHEC" is because it has not received any data from the ECM for a few seconds. This is also why you can't go into dealer mode, because the ECM is not talking to the cluster.

The most common cause is that the ECM is not powered up, but that is not the only cause.

Does the starter work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I'm not aware of any non-oem gauge clusters except some very basic ones.

The reason the cluster is showing "CHEC" is because it has not received any data from the ECM for a few seconds. This is also why you can't go into dealer mode, because the ECM is not talking to the cluster.

The most common cause is that the ECM is not powered up, but that is not the only cause.

Does the starter work?

Yes the starter works. I can get it started but it runs really rough and I have to mess with the throttle to keep it running but only lasts for about 30 seconds at most then dies.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,875 Posts
From a cold bike, get it running and see if all the exhaust headers are warming up. A squirt bottle with water is helpful.

You are looking for a cold/dead cylinder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
From a cold bike, get it running and see if all the exhaust headers are warming up. A squirt bottle with water is helpful.

You are looking for a cold/dead cylinder.
Problem is I can't even get it running long enough to do that
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,875 Posts
Problem is I can't even get it running long enough to do that
30 seconds is plenty. The header on a running cylinder warms up very fast.
 

·
SuperMod of the North
Joined
·
25,773 Posts
Maybe pull the air filter and give it a shot of starter fluid or WD 40 into the intakes while you are cranking. See if that perks it up. Would indicate maybe clogged injectors. Just a few short sprays though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Maybe pull the air filter and give it a shot of starter fluid or WD 40 into the intakes while you are cranking. See if that perks it up. Would indicate maybe clogged injectors. Just a few short sprays though.
Charging the battery right now, as soon as it has juice I'll give that a shot. Any particular intake I should squit into? Or just pick one?
 

·
SuperMod of the North
Joined
·
25,773 Posts
A one or two second spray along all four. The idea is that if the bike is NOT getting fuel it will fire up when the you spray into the intakes. This would indicate a fuel delivery problem and confirm you have spark and air. If it doesn't work you start looking at spark then air. Air fuel & spark. Rule them out until you have one to investigate then troubleshoot from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
A one or two second spray along all four. The idea is that if the bike is NOT getting fuel it will fire up when the you spray into the intakes. This would indicate a fuel delivery problem and confirm you have spark and air. If it doesn't work you start looking at spark then air. Air fuel & spark. Rule them out until you have one to investigate then troubleshoot from there.

Right on thank you for the tips. Going to be today's project
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
A one or two second spray along all four. The idea is that if the bike is NOT getting fuel it will fire up when the you spray into the intakes. This would indicate a fuel delivery problem and confirm you have spark and air. If it doesn't work you start looking at spark then air. Air fuel & spark. Rule them out until you have one to investigate then troubleshoot from there.
So, sprayed some starting fluid in each of the intakes and tried to fire it up. It fires up but then immediately dies. Spray more into intakes and it starts but then dies out. So I have spark and air but no fuel?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,875 Posts
So, sprayed some starting fluid in each of the intakes and tried to fire it up. It fires up but then immediately dies. Spray more into intakes and it starts but then dies out. So I have spark and air but no fuel?
You got it!
 

·
SuperMod of the North
Joined
·
25,773 Posts
Correct-a-mudo. Have the injectors been properly cleaned? Have you tried to run some Seafoam or similar through it to clean out some of the nasties? It will be tough if it won't stay running and it typically runs a little crappier with Seafoam in it. Your first step will be cleaning up the fuel system starting with the primary and secondary fuel filters and doing a fuel flow test. Google that up, there are lots of vids on how to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Correct-a-mudo. Have the injectors been properly cleaned? Have you tried to run some Seafoam or similar through it to clean out some of the nasties? It will be tough if it won't stay running and it typically runs a little crappier with Seafoam in it. Your first step will be cleaning up the fuel system starting with the primary and secondary fuel filters and doing a fuel flow test. Google that up, there are lots of vids on how to.

Haven't sea foamed it yet because I cant keep it running. was going to pull the pump out and check my filter and see how dirty that may be. From there I suppose I would check fuel rail, then the intakes? Also I don't have any way to get one of the fancy pressure gauge's needed to fuel pressure. Any suggestion s on how to do that? I read that the way of checking is by output of volume but can't do it while bike is running?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,875 Posts
Also I don't have any way to get one of the fancy pressure gauge's needed to fuel pressure. Any suggestion s on how to do that? I read that the way of checking is by output of volume but can't do it while bike is running?
You can borrow/rent a fuel pressure gauge at a lot of auto supply stores. You can also buy one at Harbor Freight for $16.

You don't run the bike for the volume or pressure test. Just lift the tank and jump power directly to the fuel pump so it runs for the test..
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top