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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
"I thought that the connectors were keyed differently?"
On my K6 1000 one is by Sumitomo and the other by Yazaki and there's no way that they would interconnect.
You can swap the connectors on the k5 apparently. But that isn't my problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Bypassing the power Commander didn't change the behavior of the stv's at all. Chuckster, I have another throttle body that I borrowed from a local salvage yard to potentially swap with mine but it's seized up; should I try swapping the stva?
 

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"I thought that the connectors were keyed differently?"
On my K6 1000 one is by Sumitomo and the other by Yazaki and there's no way that they would interconnect.

There is some other misconnection possibility but I've forgotten the specifics. It's a 3 pin connector that might be associated with the GPS or the EXCVA.
The TPS and STPS on the 04/05 middleweights are actually the same part number, so the form of the connectors is also identical. The only differences are the wire colors and the color of the connector itself. The connector to the TPS is grey. The easiest way to remember is that both connectors for the STVA assembly are black.

Yeah, I do. It came with the bike. Guess I should look into removing it to rule it out; as I've never installed one, I'm not quite sure how to rewire the injector wiring to stock.

I was wondering if it might not have lost its programming from being disconnected from power for 5 months...
Tying into the mess that is the TPS and STPS confusion, make sure the powercommander is connected to the TPS and not the STPS. The older setup had you pick a wire color and still be people got that wrong and connected to the STPS red wire. When they added a T-connector, mistakes became more common. Usually when this is screwed up it'll throw a code, but not always.
 

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From the thread you started on the other site, I had an idea. When it ripped out your cables, what kind of damage did it cause to the TB on the left side? Is the STVA just jamming up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
From the thread you started on the other site, I had an idea. When it ripped out your cables, what kind of damage did it cause to the TB on the left side? Is the STVA just jamming up?
So that's what I was wondering too, but the stva seems to operate smoothly when opening the stv's from closed to open when priming the ignition. I can pull the stva from that donor bike and swap them out I guess; looks like that other stva had been pulled before though, because the fast idle cam is 180° out of position on that throttle body.

Anything specific to keep in mind when swapping the stva?
 

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I don't think the STVA is the issue. If you can move it by hand from full open to full close smoothly, and it opens itself from the fully closed position, it should be fine. I know you said you swapped the TPS and STPS, but this still seems like a sensor issue. Can you take a video of what it's doing and upload to youtube?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
I don't think the STVA is the issue. If you can move it by hand from full open to full close smoothly, and it opens itself from the fully closed position, it should be fine. I know you said you swapped the TPS and STPS, but this still seems like a sensor issue. Can you take a video of what it's doing and upload to youtube?
293118

293119
 

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Why is it only running on 3 or less cylinders?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Why is it only running on 3 or less cylinders?
You really think it's not running on all 4? It doesn't sound so rough when it idles at 1200 once it's warmed up a bit. Guess I could pull coil packs individually and see if anything changes.
 

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You really think it's not running on all 4? It doesn't sound so rough when it idles at 1200 once it's warmed up a bit. Guess I could pull coil packs individually and see if anything changes.
That is what it sounds like to me in the video .

Start it from cold and lightly spray some water on each header as the bike warms up. I think you will find one or more headers colder than the others.

(I check the headers with PB Blaster, WD-40 or similar as it flashes off on a hot header but just dribbles down on a cooler one. Some people are concerned about a possible fire so use at your own risk)
 

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Everything looks fine until they get to half closed then pop open. Does a code appear when that happens? It looks like a bad spot in the STPS to me......

Just watched it again. Put the bottom half of the airbox back on and connect the IAP and IAT. Get rid of those codes. Then see if it codes right after the "bounce back".
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Doesn't run much worse tbh. All four cylinders are getting spark. Going to pull the plugs again, I'm sure at least a couple of them are fouled. Then I guess I'll start swapping injectors...
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Everything looks fine until they get to half closed then pop open. Does a code appear when that happens? It looks like a bad spot in the STPS to me......

Just watched it again. Put the bottom half of the airbox back on and connect the IAP and IAT. Get rid of those codes. Then see if it codes right after the "bounce back".
I'm running it with the airbox sensors plugged in with the airbox hanging off to the side, and there aren't any codes. I'll throw the airbox on and observe the fast idle cam to see if that makes any difference... But as far as I know, it shouldn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Yeah, so no difference. Guess I'll pull plugs and look at the injectors to try and figure out why it's running so bad. Seems to be an intermittent miss on one of the cylinders or something. But I don't get why that would make the stv's operate like that. As for a dead spot in the sensor, I swapped the stps out and that didn't change anything. Wonder if they're both bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
Plugs all look equally bad, but considering that I ran the bike without a coil pack on each cylinder briefly I guess that's not a huge surprise. These plugs were all replaced last week...
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You said you're running it with all the sensor plugged in, but in your video, I'm seeing what looks like the IAP hose coming up between 3&4, but connected to nothing.

Yeah, so no difference. Guess I'll pull plugs and look at the injectors to try and figure out why it's running so bad. Seems to be an intermittent miss on one of the cylinders or something. But I don't get why that would make the stv's operate like that. As for a dead spot in the sensor, I swapped the stps out and that didn't change anything. Wonder if they're both bad.
Or the ECM.... Impossible to tell what happened to your electrical system when you crashed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
You said you're running it with all the sensor plugged in, but in your video, I'm seeing what looks like the IAP hose coming up between 3&4, but connected to nothing.



Or the ECM.... Impossible to tell what happened to your electrical system when you crashed.
That might be the PAIR connector? I'll take a look but everything is plugged in, that I know of, and if it wasn't then I'd be getting codes. Yeah, really wish that I could get my hands on a known-good computer without having to buy one...
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Wow. Accidentally started the bike with the TPS disconnected... And it started cold without starting fluid for the first time. The force that broke the center linkage broke the TPS too. Don't know how I didn't see it earlier; could've sworn that the line was in the center in dealer mode. Bike still isn't running right but now the STV's are operating correctly so hopefully I just need to re-sync the tb's. Also suspect that one or more of my coil packs are on their way out.
 
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