The TPS and STPS on the 04/05 middleweights are actually the same part number, so the form of the connectors is also identical. The only differences are the wire colors and the color of the connector itself. The connector to the TPS is grey. The easiest way to remember is that both connectors for the STVA assembly are black."I thought that the connectors were keyed differently?"
On my K6 1000 one is by Sumitomo and the other by Yazaki and there's no way that they would interconnect.
There is some other misconnection possibility but I've forgotten the specifics. It's a 3 pin connector that might be associated with the GPS or the EXCVA.
Tying into the mess that is the TPS and STPS confusion, make sure the powercommander is connected to the TPS and not the STPS. The older setup had you pick a wire color and still be people got that wrong and connected to the STPS red wire. When they added a T-connector, mistakes became more common. Usually when this is screwed up it'll throw a code, but not always.Yeah, I do. It came with the bike. Guess I should look into removing it to rule it out; as I've never installed one, I'm not quite sure how to rewire the injector wiring to stock.
I was wondering if it might not have lost its programming from being disconnected from power for 5 months...
So that's what I was wondering too, but the stva seems to operate smoothly when opening the stv's from closed to open when priming the ignition. I can pull the stva from that donor bike and swap them out I guess; looks like that other stva had been pulled before though, because the fast idle cam is 180° out of position on that throttle body.From the thread you started on the other site, I had an idea. When it ripped out your cables, what kind of damage did it cause to the TB on the left side? Is the STVA just jamming up?
I don't think the STVA is the issue. If you can move it by hand from full open to full close smoothly, and it opens itself from the fully closed position, it should be fine. I know you said you swapped the TPS and STPS, but this still seems like a sensor issue. Can you take a video of what it's doing and upload to youtube?
That is what it sounds like to me in the video .You really think it's not running on all 4? It doesn't sound so rough when it idles at 1200 once it's warmed up a bit. Guess I could pull coil packs individually and see if anything changes.
I'm running it with the airbox sensors plugged in with the airbox hanging off to the side, and there aren't any codes. I'll throw the airbox on and observe the fast idle cam to see if that makes any difference... But as far as I know, it shouldn't.Everything looks fine until they get to half closed then pop open. Does a code appear when that happens? It looks like a bad spot in the STPS to me......
Just watched it again. Put the bottom half of the airbox back on and connect the IAP and IAT. Get rid of those codes. Then see if it codes right after the "bounce back".
Or the ECM.... Impossible to tell what happened to your electrical system when you crashed.Yeah, so no difference. Guess I'll pull plugs and look at the injectors to try and figure out why it's running so bad. Seems to be an intermittent miss on one of the cylinders or something. But I don't get why that would make the stv's operate like that. As for a dead spot in the sensor, I swapped the stps out and that didn't change anything. Wonder if they're both bad.
That might be the PAIR connector? I'll take a look but everything is plugged in, that I know of, and if it wasn't then I'd be getting codes. Yeah, really wish that I could get my hands on a known-good computer without having to buy one...You said you're running it with all the sensor plugged in, but in your video, I'm seeing what looks like the IAP hose coming up between 3&4, but connected to nothing.
Or the ECM.... Impossible to tell what happened to your electrical system when you crashed.