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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

have an 05 1K and wanting to do an LED headlight setup. It’s got the OEM dust caps (I find the design to be strange) that go from a female plug (outside) to some weird male-ish plug on the inside that requires a short pigtail from that to the bulb (which I do not have).
Question is, can the 07 and up dust covers be used onthe 05/06 headlamp housing? If not, does anyone know if there’s any way to make an LED bulb work with the aforementioned dust caps?
Photos attached for reference. The bike came with HIDs, hence the holes cut through the caps. If you’re wondering why I removed the HIDs, it’s because the forks were rubbing on the ballasts due to location they adhered them. Presumably there’s a newer slim ballast but I’m not going back to HID. Any help appreciated.
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Ugh! A hack has been at work and his/her efforts need to be undone. That means buying both back covers. Both lock into the headlight housing with O-ring seals to keep dust and moisture out of the headlight housing. They are entirely different than the K7 covers.

For the high beam I suggest using a 9011 HIR as is sold here. Except for some minor trimming of the bulb's base, it drops in. Beware of the manufacturer as some 9011's are not real HIR. Candlepower's are by Phillips. I see that Toshiba HIR's are still being sold on ebay. Note the space ship shape. They were originally were made in Japan and popularized HIR. But the P.R.C. marking means that they're now coming from China. Hopefully they're the same. I have a Toshiba on my K6 and it produces a blast of light with no beam pattern problems that you're likely to have with LEDs.

I converted my low beam to HID many years ago. It's beam pattern isn't as tight as the OEM but is good enough and I suspect is much better than LED. However, unlike your hack, I did a competent conversion job with no fork rubbing. I have some pics that show the result if you're interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ugh! A hack has been at work and his/her efforts need to be undone. That means buying both back covers. Both lock into the headlight housing with O-ring seals to keep dust and moisture out of the headlight housing. They are entirely different than the K7 covers.

For the high beam I suggest using a 9011 HIR as is sold here. Except for some minor trimming of the bulb's base, it drops in. Beware of the manufacturer as some 9011's are not real HIR. Candlepower's are by Phillips. I see that Toshiba HIR's are still being sold on ebay. Note the space ship shape. They were originally were made in Japan and popularized HIR. But the P.R.C. marking means that they're now coming from China. Hopefully they're the same. I have a Toshiba on my K6 and it produces a blast of light with no beam pattern problems that you're likely to have with LEDs.

I converted my low beam to HID many years ago. It's beam pattern isn't as tight as the OEM but is good enough and I suspect is much better than LED. However, unlike your hack, I did a competent conversion job with no fork rubbing. I have some pics that show the result if you're interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply. Correction - it’s the upper fork clamp that was rubbing and I never noticed it until I took the bike to the track. In all reality it only rubbed at low speeds (obviously not turning the forks at high speed) but it was enough to say this trash gotta go. I’ll check out that high beam and thanks for the intel on the trash Chinese Knock offs. I’m a staunch supporter of American and quality made products. The local bike shop said they have a PIAA H7 bulb that’s supposedly noticeably brighter but it’s $60 - pretty steep for a bulb.

it’s good to see people still use the forums. I boycotted the big tech oligarchs s year ago. It feels good to be back old school.

Anywho, yes I’d like to see your pics. Feel free to post here or PM me. Thanks man!
 

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"I’m a staunch supporter of American and quality made products."
There's more to it than that. Years ago I read of someone who had installed a Delco or Wagner (I forget) 9011 only to find that it wasn't any brighter than his 9005.

My pics were originally on Tinypic but it's been shut down. Give me a bit and I'll dig them up.

The HIR technology was invented and patented by GE. Their bulbs had a strange shape and were used on the early Dodge Vipers. There's a pic of one on the Candlepower link. Several years ago I found someone who had come across a stash of the GE bulbs and was selling them on ebay. I'd assumed that they were long gone so I bought one out of curiosity, never intending to use it.
 

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It's hard to see but those are the Chinese made Toshiba's. On the other side of the base is Toshiba and P.R.C. I think the grey portion of the base is another indicator. But all I know is that they're made in China. They may perform identically to the discontinued Japanese bulbs. I consider that "WAY Better" stuff to be B.S. (they do produce a lot more light than the 9005). As I distantly recall, Daniel Stern was once saying that the Phillips produced a bit more light.
 

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Here's how I converted my low beam to HID:

This is the OEM low beam dust cover with the connector removed and a piece of blue plastic sized to snuggly fill the hole. I think there's some RTV on the inside to secure things. The blue plastic has a hole for a black grommet that came with the HID kit. At the time of this pic I was using the removed connector to connect the ballast to the wiring harness and you can barely see it. I later replaced it with the correct connector as the next pic shows.


This shows the area beneath the low beam where the HID connects to the wiring harness's low beam connector and the wiring is routed with a cable tie. There's no issue with rubbing wires.


Here's the ballast mounted on the left inner cowl with some 3M VHB-LSE double sided tape. Mine has an ignitor but I think that they might now be sold with it integral to the main supply. You can see the leads to the bulb and the power cable. The slim ballast is small enough to fit in the space between the inner cowl and the outer cowling. But it was necessary to orient things as shown to fit.

As I recall, I'm using a 5000 °K bulb. My general impression is that the kit prices have come down over the years but they've also stopped including things like the black grommet for the HV leads, a 12 V supply cord to plug into the ballast's connector, and a cord to run from the ballast's HV connectors to the bulb. Perhaps there's a supplier for these items.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Clean setup. Thanks for sharing. Still waiting on new caps and will decide on what type of light from there. Don’t do much night riding so may just keep it simple snd go with stock bulbs.
Thanks again for all your help, brother.
 

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As said, the 9011 is essentially a drop in. But it won't do you any good during the daytime. I once accidentally turned mine on during the day and people ahead of me were pulling over to let me by until I figured out what was going on.

In my first pic there's a cap-like object above and to the right of the low beam cap. That's a vent/filter with a PTFE membrane to allow the headlight chamber to vent while keeping dust & water out. Suzuki takes that seriously and your hacked up caps defeat it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update - had an amazing track day at chuckwalla yesterday but now that I’m back, time to get this bike dialed in. I hacked up a Che-Bay harness for the OE style hi/low beam connectors. The caps came in today at the local bike shop (was back ordered). I ended up buying a PIAA H7 from Che-Bay (it looks legit) and PIAA 9005 HB3 for the low beam. I’ve got some standard car bulbs I used to test out my Frankenstein harness. Bench test passed.

Had to remove the upper fairing stay bracket to get my hands in there holy shit what a tiny space. Bottom is dialed in, just need to swap in the PIAA bulb when it arrives but the top has me confused. There’s a round plate held in by the retention clip with a small hole that the middle -I can’t tell where it goes with the bulb in. The bulb itself cannot pass through it.Maybe I’m having a blonde moment? Pics attached for reference.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Delve a little deeper into this damn thing. Still don’t see where the round plate went - I’m wondering if it was an adapter for the HID to secure it. But, with the H7 mocked up in the hole I still can’t see how the retainer clip holds it in; there’s definitely something missing.

Also, the bulb deflector is loose and can’t tell why but it’s gradually running a hole in the plastic. I took all the screws out but in an attempt to adjust and secure it from the inside but albeit having several screws, it’s evidently glued as well so no dice. I’m tempted to buy a new unit as much as I don’t want to. This is turning into a huge headache.
 

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I have no recollection of the round plate and suspect that it was added. Furthermore I suspect that your retainer clip has been bent, probably to accommodate whatever was there before, I see a screw that might allow you to loosen it to remove and re-bend the clip so that it will properly retain the H7. I think the plastic shield just snaps in. They occasionally come loose. To properly deal with it you need to remove the headlight housing and the clear lens from it. That's a bunch of work and involves using a heat gun and/or putting the housing in an oven. See this, this, and this. Depending on what has gone wrong, you might need a small amount of clear RTV to secure it. No guarantees on any of this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yea I can see someone bending the retention clip to accommodate the HID bulb. I’ll try to bend it back. Not super concerned about the loose deflector as it didn’t really obstruct the light for the high beam previously; rather just want a straight beam but not gonna dismantle it as the juice isn’t worth the squeeze as you suggested. Thanks again for the help man. Hope to have this all wrapped up soon.
 

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It looks like the idiot that hacked up your headlights also removed the headlight housing vent. They might be available on ebay. Search for Nitto vent. I can't tell if you're missing the entire filter or just the cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You are correct. I noticed that as well for the top. Looks like just the cap but I don’t recall any fogging inside but then again I’m in SoCal where it’s pretty dry. Probably be a different story in the south or Midwest so I’ll look for one.
 
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