[Asapgrubb]

Ok I’ve read the rv6john thread and I’m pretty tech savvy but not as much with electrical stuff.

07 gsxr 600 15k miles bike stock other then dummy that gutted the stock exhaust so it throws that SET valve code but no others.

I got the bike kinda recently July 2020. i ride it quite a bit ran fine, went to a track day perfect everything is great. I ride it everyday it’s my only transportation rn I also work at Cyclegear so we ride as much to work as possible.
Anyway one day I rode to work and it was fine noticed a lil bog in high rpms nothing crazy (I needed to change the fuel sock still cause when I bought it the tank was a lil dirty so I just blew it out till the new one came in def not the problem) worked a whole shift went to leave and see a homies new bike, on the ride there noticed the bog was a lil worse when trying to merge. finally got to destination shut it off- went to leave bike wouldn't crank so I bumped started it. started fine and left, got half way home maybe 6 mins out of a 10-12 min ride home going the speed limit noticed the lights (cluster and headlight) getting dim, bike sputter and died right when I got home (lucky)- long story short- upgraded the stator, rectifier and battery. figured it was the stator cause it was so sudden. so I changed it, charged battery all the way tested it just incase, it was fine. started it let it run for bout 5 min turned off, turned bike on bike started fine, did that again felt weak so shut it off tried to start, wouldnt start. It would crank for a sec then click click click.
So I was like damn, I replaced the rectifier right after that thinking it wasn’t sending signal. bought a new battery from work also slapped them in, check battery (connection and volts) was fine, bike started fine. Ran bike long enough to get to temp. I shut it off like 7 times in between that and kept some revs on it, 8th try was weak, 9th try click click nothing checked the connectors they were all fine, fuses fine, I have power when I turn key on but won’t give enough power to start it (like a bad or dead battery but at this point everything is new) I’ve check it with a Multimeter and it says it’s fine so now I’m lost. I just suck at electrical stuff guys short of checking the whole loom for tiny knicks and a short I’m stumped. Might have to bite bullet and take it to the shop and I really don’t wanna do that plz halp

edit: I fixed all the bad spelling and punctuations I think.

 

[Tinsnips]

OK, with out punctuation it is a bitch to follow what you are saying. I read it twice. You need to start with a charged, known good battery (preferable new), and get it running. Take a voltage reading across the battery terminals with it running. It should be about 14.5V. If it isn't you aren't charging. I would also check the battery terminals and the main plug and wires of the charging circuit, they are known to bake when things go south down there. If you do replace parts you need to get either OEM or Rick's, the only guarantee on the cheap parts off eBay is that they won't last.

 

[rv6john]

Welcome and yes that was a painful read.

You could have posted, "Bike loses power at higher rpms" and "battery keeps going dead".

On the first, you probably have it right with the fuel filter but I think you missed the second high pressure filter that is in the plastic housing next to the pump.

On the second, what Tin said above. This "I’ve check it with a Multimeter and it says it’s fine" is not helpful trying to pin it down.

BTW, things don't get deleted here unless they are abusive or obscene.

However, the quality of the information provided on a technical issue has a direct effect on the quality of the responses

 

[Asapgrubb]

Ok I’ve read the r6vjohn thread and I’m pretty tech savvy but not as much with electrical stuff.

07 gsxr 600 15k miles bike stock other then dummy that gutted the stock exhaust so it throws that SET valve code but no others.
I got the bike kinda recently July 2020 rode it quite a bit ran fine went to a track day perfect everything is great I ride it everyday it’s my only transportation rn I also work at Cyclegear so we ride as much to work as possible anyway but one day I rode to work and it it was fine noticed a lil bog in high rpms nothing crazy (I needed to change the fuel sock still cause when I bought it the tank was a lil dirty so I just blew it out till the new one came in def not the problem) worked a whole shift went to leave and see a homies new bike ride there noticed the bog was worse when trying to merge got to destination shut it off- went to leave would crank so I bumped started it then on fine left got half way home maybe 6 mins out of a 10-12 min ride home going the speed limit noticed the lights getting dim died right when I got home- long story short I was planning on upgrading the stator and rectifier and battery soon anyway for when I do a tune and stuff later on had cash for it blah blah blah so bam replaced the stator first cause I figured it wasn’t charging cause it was so sudden changed it charged battery all the way tested it just incase, it was fine started it legit run for bout 5 min turned off turned on started fine did it again felt weak shut it off tried to start for a 3 time wouldnt start crank for a sec then click click click so was like damn replaced the rectifier right after that thinking it wasn’t sending signal got new battery also slapped them in check battery was fine started Ranlong enough to get to temp I shut it off like 7 times in between that and keep some revs on it 8th try was weak 9th try click click nothing checked the plugs they all fine fuses fine I have power when I turn key on but won’t give enough power to start it. I know I probably worded this terribly and no punctuations and such but it’s late andI’m still frustrated with it I’ve check it with a Multimeter and it says it’s fine so now I’m lost. I just suck at electrical stuff guys short of checking the whole loom for tiny knicks and a short I’m stumped. Might have to bite bullet and take it to the shop and I really don’t wanna do that plz halp

 

[Asapgrubb]

Yeah sorry guys it was like 5 o’clock in the morning, I was rushing to get it all out before passed out lol but In short it has a new stator, new rectifier, new battery. They are all good and charged has no bad connections but still runs for a bit then slowly dies till it won’t start again. 🙃

 

[rv6john]

Yeah sorry guys it was like 5 o’clock in the morning, I was rushing to get it all out before passed out lol but In short it has a new stator, new rectifier, new battery. They are all good and charged has no bad connections but still runs for a bit then slowly dies till it won’t start again. 🙃

I don't know what you mean by "it" slowly dies. The battery?

 

[Asapgrubb]

OK, with out punctuation it is a bitch to follow what you are saying. I read it twice. You need to start with a charged, known good battery (preferable new), and get it running. Take a voltage reading across the battery terminals with it running. It should be about 14.5V. If it isn't you aren't charging. I would also check the battery terminals and the main plug and wires of the charging circuit, they are known to bake when things go south down there. If you do replace parts you need to get either OEM or Rick's, the only guarantee on the cheap parts off eBay is that they won't last.

bought all new and better stator, r/r , and battery. the stator and r/r is ricks, battery is just a agm but a new a brand new one since I get discount, I work at Cyclegear no eBay bs for me. it’s saying it’s charging at 14.5 but It’s not cause bike slowly dies and that’s what has me puzzled All wires seem to be in check and look fine (unburned or anything it’s a very clean bike and the problem came out of know where) also sorry again for the shit first post. I’m stressin. I moved to my computer maybe itll work better my phone is crappy I'm sorry fellas.

 

[Asapgrubb]

I don't kno

OK, with out punctuation it is a bitch to follow what you are saying. I read it twice. You need to start with a charged, known good battery (preferable new), and get it running. Take a voltage reading across the battery terminals with it running. It should be about 14.5V. If it isn't you aren't charging. I would also check the battery terminals and the main plug and wires of the charging circuit, they are known to bake when things go south down there. If you do replace parts you need to get either OEM or Rick's, the only guarantee on the cheap parts off eBay is that they won't last.

 

[Asapgrubb]

I'm going to get a new multimeter today and test it again to see if maybe my meter was bad idk at this point.

 

[Spyder13]

So when you say it "slowly dies", I am kinda reading that you mean it just won't start? or is the battery still dying? After it has been brought up to running temp, and the battery is still fully charged, but won't crank then, you might have either a starter, or starter solenoid issue. Check all of your grounds for good CLEAN connection, as well as all of you positive leads.

 

[Tinsnips]

I think he is referring to the battery dying, not the bike sputtering out and quitting. Check your battery is charged to 12V with the bike off. Start it, run it and take a voltage across the battery looking for 14.5V. Once it dies take another battery reading with it off to see if it is depleted.

If by "it dies" you mean the bike struggles, loses power, and chokes and sputters out but you still have 12V at the battery you likely have a different issue. In that case I would point to your bogging at high rpm as a possible secondary fuel filter issue.

 

[Asapgrubb]

So when you say it "slowly dies", I am kinda reading that you mean it just won't start? or is the battery still dying? After it has been brought up to running temp, and the battery is still fully charged, but won't crank then, you might have either a starter, or starter solenoid issue. Check all of your grounds for good CLEAN connection, as well as all of you positive leads.

here is how it goes step by step now that its all been changed to new parts

put key in
turn on
everything is golden fuel pump primes all is good
lets it run for set amount of time
lights slowly dim (headlight) but not a lot just a tiny bit (cluster is still very bright, brake lights/tail lights also bright)
revs great even at redline rpms are fine tho and it says its charging when checked with multimeter 14.5v
I leave it idle, it run runs runs then shuts off without me messing with anything
tries to start again cranks a few times then battery clicks like its dead (brand new charged battery tested perfect)
lets it sit for a min ( maybe 3min)
crank it and takes a second but will start (weak cranks)
lets it run till its cuts itself off (not so much a sputter and die its kinda abrupt but essentially yes)
can repeat this process about 3 times then nothing ( pump won't prime, bike won't crank, but I still have full lights high and low beam, turn signals, cluster the whole thing lights up fine)

I also fixed my original post so maybe easier to read now sorry and thanks

 

[Spyder13]

Ok, next thing to test. When it dies, and is either cranking slow, or just clicking, have your meter across the battery, while hitting the starter button. If the voltage is at or above 12, then drops below 10v when hitting the starter you may just have another bad battery. It does happen.

 

[Tinsnips]

When it finally dies for good what is the battery at?

Also, quick verification - it is not simply over heating is it? The 3 min to coo off and hard cranking makes me ask.

 

[Asapgrubb]

When it finally dies for good what is the battery at?

Also, quick verification - it is not simply over heating is it? The 3 min to coo off and hard cranking makes me ask.

not over heating fans kick on at 220 brings it down just fine

going to get my own meter as the other one is older just to rule that out be back in about an hour maybe less


cranks slow then won't crank and clicks ( battery at 12v battery seems to be fine putting it on charger while I'm at store just incase )

 

[Tinsnips]

Gotcha. Sounds good.

 

[rv6john]

Check the battery voltage when it dies as Spyder and Tin said.

Reading between the lines, it still sounds like it is not charging correctly although your 14.5v at higher rpm is fine.

How long are you letting it idle? The fan is a significant current draw and the charging system at idle does not produce a lot.

 

[Asapgrubb]

Check the battery voltage when it dies as Spyder and Tin said.

Reading between the lines, it still sounds like it is not charging correctly although your 14.5v at higher rpm is fine.

How long are you letting it idle? The fan is a significant current draw and the charging system at idle does not produce a lot.

when I put the new battery in last night I let it run for easy 20 min maybe more

 

[rv6john]

when I put the new battery in last night I let it run for easy 20 min maybe more

Why?

Put your voltmeter on the battery and check the voltage when you are at idle and then when the cooling fan kicks on.

 

[Asapgrubb]

ok new multimeter is saying when bike is on and started its not charging, last meter said it was fine.
still wonder tho cause the stator, rec and battery were all new? is it possible I got a bad stator? plz say no lol