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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm going to throw updates on my bike here.

A little background, I bought an L1 GSXr750 with a little over 2000 miles earlier this year and lowsided at the track. It was an easy lowside (at 65mph) and after a fairly simple rebuild to replace some plastics and maybe a lever, I decided I wanted to do a complete makeover, so I crashed at the track REALLY good. Managed to rash or crack EVERY last bit of plastic, bend a brake rotor, snap off a clip on, bent rearsets but the main part of the bike (fork, triples, frame, wheels, etc) survived amazingly well.

It's a work in progress and if anyone has any questions on what has gone before, I'm happy to share. Some of the highlights were an DIY FTECU flash, installation of their quickshifter, M4 Brembo brake installation with Braking's SK2 rotors. Stainless steel brake lines, Traxxion dynamics revalved and resprung forks, shimmed OEM shock and fork extenders up front, GSXR600 headers with a stainless steel stub welded to fit a DIY pie cut midpipe eliminating the cat. This ends in the stock location so I can use any of the slip on mufflers out there. Currently I replaced the rashed stock muffler with a Leo Vince slip on.

So, at the moment, I'm waiting on a superbike plastics kit from Armour Bodies. Seems they have very good reviews on their body kits. I ordered a superbike kit (one with the stock seat replaced with a one piece tail unit and a foam pad). Unfortunately, I was told it will be December before I MIGHT get it. Apparently they stock the supersport kit that utilizes the stock seat. Whatever, I'm healing from my clavicle fracture and I'm not riding seriously anyway.

I'm planning how to make the bike "street legal" while utilizing the race plastics. I was thinking a mini projector lights and a custom mount. I fabbed up a bracket to mount a tail/brake light sandwiched between the fender eliminator and the undersurface of the frame. I've been fortunate enough to have learned how to tig weld and brackets like this are an easy thing.

Pics to follow.
 

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I'm going to throw updates on my bike here.

A little background, I bought an L1 GSXr750 with a little over 2000 miles earlier this year and lowsided at the track. It was an easy lowside (at 65mph) and after a fairly simple rebuild to replace some plastics and maybe a lever, I decided I wanted to do a complete makeover, so I crashed at the track REALLY good. Managed to rash or crack EVERY last bit of plastic, bend a brake rotor, snap off a clip on, bent rearsets but the main part of the bike (fork, triples, frame, wheels, etc) survived amazingly well.

It's a work in progress and if anyone has any questions on what has gone before, I'm happy to share. Some of the highlights were an DIY FTECU flash, installation of their quickshifter, M4 Brembo brake installation with Braking's SK2 rotors. Stainless steel brake lines, Traxxion dynamics revalved and resprung forks, shimmed OEM shock and fork extenders up front, GSXR600 headers with a stainless steel stub welded to fit a DIY pie cut midpipe eliminating the cat. This ends in the stock location so I can use any of the slip on mufflers out there. Currently I replaced the rashed stock muffler with a Leo Vince slip on.

So, at the moment, I'm waiting on a superbike plastics kit from Armour Bodies. Seems they have very good reviews on their body kits. I ordered a superbike kit (one with the stock seat replaced with a one piece tail unit and a foam pad). Unfortunately, I was told it will be December before I MIGHT get it. Apparently they stock the supersport kit that utilizes the stock seat. Whatever, I'm healing from my clavicle fracture and I'm not riding seriously anyway.

I'm planning how to make the bike "street legal" while utilizing the race plastics. I was thinking a mini projector lights and a custom mount. I fabbed up a bracket to mount a tail/brake light sandwiched between the fender eliminator and the undersurface of the frame. I've been fortunate enough to have learned how to tig weld and brackets like this are an easy thing.

Pics to follow.
I had a chance to ride COTA Nov 25-26th but decided against due to my healing injury.
Take time with the shoulder, I cracked my clavicle once as well.
Now healing from torn bicep surgery, it sucks. Today was first day back at work, and I'm sore after 12hr shift.
I opted to get everything in order for next season as well as do my project work very soon.
 

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Drink lots of milk and let that bone mend good. No fun fixing that one more than once.
My repair also requires bone healing over the injury for strength.

Pretty amazing technology. Painful as hell getting it all working again.
 
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So, at the moment, I'm waiting on a superbike plastics kit from Armour Bodies. Seems they have very good reviews on their body kits. I ordered a superbike kit (one with the stock seat replaced with a one piece tail unit and a foam pad). Unfortunately, I was told it will be December before I MIGHT get it. Apparently they stock the supersport kit that utilizes the stock seat. Whatever, I'm healing from my clavicle fracture and I'm not riding seriously anyway.
My bike had a superbike tail on it when I got it and I really like it. It is so much easier to go side to side then with a stock saddle. Obviously, there is minimal padding so you do "feel" the bike, but it works well. I'm sure there is a lot of personal preference involved here also.

I got a set of Hotbodies with the superbike tail on a two for one deal that I'll be putting on soon.

You might check out Optimal plastics also. Good reports on those. Optimalracing.com
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah. The stock seat is almost plush. Great OEM seat.
But I definitely feel it move around a little and wouldnt mind a little higher position with a little better feeling of connectedness. Lol.
I dont ride for long periods of time anymore. Numbness in my left hand after 30 - 45 mins prevents it.
 

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I got a set of Hotbodies with the superbike tail on a two for one deal that I'll be putting on soon.
If you're interested in splitting the parts up I'd be interested in the superbike tail. I have the Armour Bodies supersport bodywork and like it a lot but would like to go to superbike tail.
 

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If you're interested in splitting the parts up I'd be interested in the superbike tail. I have the Armour Bodies supersport bodywork and like it a lot but would like to go to superbike tail.
No I'm keeping the superbike tail!

Can't you just order the tail section separately? I see other manufacturers offering separate pieces.
 

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No I'm keeping the superbike tail!

Can't you just order the tail section separately? I see other manufacturers offering separate pieces.
Yes you can. I think the Armour Bodies one is about 200 bucks. They're supposed to be coming out with a superbike seat pan you can just add to the supersport tail but not developed for the 2011-up 600/750 yet. I've also considered buying the Hotbodies seat pan; would think it should work with the AB tail.
 

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I didn't realize they made the superbike tail pans. Looks cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
AIM link cable for Suzuki

So I bought my AIM Solo DL lap timer used and it did not come with the suzuki specific ECU link cable. But, I knew that I could buy this cable through AIM dealers.

Honestly, I'm sick in the head because I'll pay $500 for a used lap timer but balk at paying $65 for the proper link cable.

Anyway, the used lap timer came with 2 canbus/rs link cables (I don't know why). One end has a 7-pin miniature screw on round electrical connector to connect to the AIM unit and the other end are 6 wires unterminated. Of course, the signal wire I needed to send to the unit was the one missing wire. I hacked apart the cable and found that further up, all 7 wires were accounted for.

The suzuki specific link cable has a male 6 pin Sumitomo connector to attach to the dealer diagnostic link under the seat. Fortunately, the exhaust servo motor I removed has the correct male connector. I cut it off the electrical lead and spliced the wires onto the lead that came with the AIM unit after testing and confirming which wires were used. Fortunately AIM has the pinouts for the link cable and the AIM unit on their website. I did have to relocate one of the pins in the connector but since having done it for the FTECU flash installation, that part was easy.

Can't wait to try out the lap timer.
 

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Have heard great things about the AIM lap timers. I was able to get a great deal on a used Moto-D Start in the middle of last year and it's worked well.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Revs hunting at idle

Noticed this rhythmic surging at idle when I removed the OEM muffler and put on the straight through Leo vince slip on.

This seems to be not an uncommon thing but I have not yet figured/read a solution.

It happens after the engine warms up and is at/near normal operating temps. Revs climb a couple hundred rpms and hunts between 1700-1200. The revs cycle about once per 1-1.5sec.


I think it has to do with the loss of backpressure (whatever that means). I can make it stop if I put my hand over the tailpipe. As soon as I remove my hand, it starts to hunt again.

I'm thinking I might try disabling the O2 sensor (through FTECU flash) to see if helps.
 

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Noticed this rhythmic surging at idle when I removed the OEM muffler and put on the straight through Leo vince slip on.

This seems to be not an uncommon thing but I have not yet figured/read a solution.

It happens after the engine warms up and is at/near normal operating temps. Revs climb a couple hundred rpms and hunts between 1700-1200. The revs cycle about once per 1-1.5sec.


I think it has to do with the loss of backpressure (whatever that means). I can make it stop if I put my hand over the tailpipe. As soon as I remove my hand, it starts to hunt again.

I'm thinking I might try disabling the O2 sensor (through FTECU flash) to see if helps.
Yea, it's a fuel mixture issue at that rpm I'm sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Just installed a one of those lightweight tubular rear subframes.
I am a little surprised the stock subframe isn't lighter (not that it's heavy), although it has to be made to carry...



So I'm pretty happy with the mod. Looks pretty trick too.

Anyway, I'm still waiting on some race plastics... Armour Bodies is not wanting to make the superbike tail. I don't see the L1+ option from Optimal.

Thinking about some adjustable triples. I figure maybe I can drop the front end back to stock if I can reduce my offset to regain trail from raising the rear. (if I have to explain, nevermind) Not for everyone, but I think the IMA set looks cool.
 

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Thinking about some adjustable triples. I figure maybe I can drop the front end back to stock if I can reduce my offset to regain trail from raising the rear. (if I have to explain, nevermind) Not for everyone, but I think the IMA set looks cool.
Is that triple available for the 600/750? I'm only seeing it for the 1000. The only alternative triples I've seen are the Attack?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
They better be. :)
I just dropped nearly a grand on them with the tapered bearing set.
But yeah, I double checked with them.

My budget is done for the year. Minus tires. And its only january.

But for next year, anyone know the cheapest place to get a set of bst or dymags?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just for reference, since I had a lot of difficulty finding the fork and triple clamp dimensions

2011-present gsxr600/750
Showa Big piston forks

upper fork tube 50mm
lower fork tube 53mm

triple clamp offset 30mm (I have not measured this, though. and cannot confirm right now)

Steering stem bearings sizes are 30mm/55mm/17mm
stock bearings are the ball type.
needle bearing replacements seem to share the part number 32006X

as I take off the stock parts I'll post more info.

With the IMA clamps, it looks like I will be able vary offset from 25mm to 31mm by 1mm increments. I'll have to calculate the trail changes.
 
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